Factory integration stereo wiring harnesses

[blackb13]

How would I wire up a set of components to the factory wiring? Do you just splice the tweeters into the factory wiring and how would you wire up the crossover?

I would mount the tweeter in/on the sail panel for the door mirrors. That would allow you to mount the crossover in the door and utilize the factory wiring. I would then unplug the factory tweeters and leave them there.

Or like was mentioned, mount the crossovers behind the glove box or under the console or wherever, there's lots of room... Use the factory wiring harness for the door speakers (located by the factory radio) and hardwire the tweeters directly from the crossover.

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[snowkarver]

here's the wiring diagram. It looks like the tweeter connects right to the factory door speaker, that's why I was assuming it would be easy to put components in there.

FYI I think the diagram you posted might have been from an older model, from before someone got confirmed actual Maverick ones.

See this thread: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...plice-into-for-remote-in-audio-harness.12949/

Based on this one, it does look the XL/XLT tweets are wired in parallel from some unknown point behind the dash (S233/234 and S259/260).

 

[colinl]

FYI I think the diagram you posted might have been from an older model, from before someone got confirmed actual Maverick ones.

See this thread: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...plice-into-for-remote-in-audio-harness.12949/

Based on this one, it does look the XL/XLT tweets are wired in parallel from some unknown point behind the dash (S233/234 and S259/260).

interesting, I have the B&O and haven't worked on the base system. assuming this is true I probably should delete the diagram I uploaded a few replies back so that the bad info isn't spread further.

I would mount the tweeter in/on the sail panel for the door mirrors. That would allow you to mount the crossover in the door and utilize the factory wiring. I would then unplug the factory tweeters and leave them there.

Or like was mentioned, mount the crossovers behind the glove box or under the console or wherever, there's lots of room... Use the factory wiring harness for the door speakers (located by the factory radio) and hardwire the tweeters directly from the crossover.

regarding tweeters in the sail panel / mirror cap, I would not suggest it because of how janky those trim pieces are attached. I have no idea why Ford used the kind of connector they did but it's not very firm and it can move around. a plastic fastener with a barb would have been a lot more secure. I would just surface mount on the door panel itself somewhere. could be right above the mid, or higher if you prefer.

 

[ejouie]

Do we know the locations of any filters/frequency blockers?

 

[Gilbillygucci]

Do we know the locations of any filters/frequency blockers?

If i remember correctly, the rear has a filter mounted on the speaker itself as do the tweeters in the dash.

 

[snowkarver]

Do we know the locations of any filters/frequency blockers?

I believe the front wiring is full range, with a high-pass cap on the tweeter housing itself.

 

[ejouie]

If i remember correctly, the rear has a filter mounted on the speaker itself as do the tweeters in the dash.

That makes sense. It also makes it easier for speaker upgrades using the factory wiring.

Do the door speakers get full range? Seems like a tall task to ask of just a woofer.

 

[blackb13]

That makes sense. It also makes it easier for speaker upgrades using the factory wiring.

Do the door speakers get full range? Seems like a tall task to ask of just a woofer.

Yes, the door speakers are full range. That is why they desperately need a crossover/DSP if you plan to keep them.

 

[colinl]

Yes, the door speakers are full range. That is why they desperately need a crossover/DSP if you plan to keep them.

true, they should have put a bass blocker on the midrange but they didn't.

full range to the door speakers is necessary, though, for an effective line-out converter. you can fix a filtered signal with a dsp, but it's still useful to just have full range to begin with.

 

[Miskomd]

99% sure this is the right thing. Hopefully I’ll be installing on Monday and I’ll confirm.
Harness from Best Buy

 

[blackb13]

99% sure this is the right thing. Hopefully I’ll be installing on Monday and I’ll confirm.
Harness from Best Buy

For non B&O, that's the right one.

 

[jewc75]

I would mount the tweeter in/on the sail panel for the door mirrors. That would allow you to mount the crossover in the door and utilize the factory wiring. I would then unplug the factory tweeters and leave them there.

Or like was mentioned, mount the crossovers behind the glove box or under the console or wherever, there's lots of room... Use the factory wiring harness for the door speakers (located by the factory radio) and hardwire the tweeters directly from the crossover.

That's kinda what I did. I ran all new wiring.

 

[colinl]

That's kinda what I did. I ran all new wiring.

that's ... interesting. I can't say I've ever seen a tweeter installed such that it's partially blocked by the dash. that said, the factory dash locations are not without their own flaws.

how does it sound?

I've had my door panels off twice and hate the funky fastener on the sail panel. are you still using that or did you improvise something else to keep it secured?

 

[jewc75]

that's ... interesting. I can't say I've ever seen a tweeter installed such that it's partially blocked by the dash. that said, the factory dash locations are not without their own flaws.

how does it sound?

I've had my door panels off twice and hate the funky fastener on the sail panel. are you still using that or did you improvise something else to keep it secured?

Mine are pretty solid. It sounds much better than the factory stuff. When the amp is hooked up it will sound so much better. The factory tweeters imo are garbage and i couldnt hear them anyway. Might install another set of tweeters in the stock location but mounted on the grill. I want to hear my stuff lol.

 

[JG307]

Here's an option with bare leads and P&P to hideaway. Straightforward ordering.

https://hoelwiring.com/products/ford-maverick-subwoofer-amp-plug-play-wiring-kit

Looks like this harness is no longer available. I'm looking to install a Kicker HS10 to the B&O system. Are there any other "basic" options out there? The Plug N Play "Harness Only" kit is $80 now. At that price I think I'd rather just splice into the factory wiring.

If I end up going that route, I should splice the factory sub wire and feed that into EITHER the L or R connection on the HS10... Right??

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