What is the correct wire to splice into for remote in audio harness?

[chattanoogamav]

Hey all. this weekend i put a 12" fosgate shallow sub in with boss 1100 amp. everything works alright. ( Stock speakers need to go at some point) anyway, i spliced the remote from the amp into the red and white hot wire on the radio harness. assuming it was Ignition hot, but its actually a battery hot and the amp stays on all the time when the truck is off. ive been searching around and trying to find out what people are using as a remote hot, but all ive found was that i need to get a factory service manual. been trying to down load the 72 hour liscense but my order gets locked up on the processing screen. anyway. hopefully someon here whose done the splicing method can help me out

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[BootXL76]

Hey all. this weekend i put a 12" fosgate shallow sub in with boss 1100 amp. everything works alright. ( Stock speakers need to go at some point) anyway, i spliced the remote from the amp into the red and white hot wire on the radio harness. assuming it was Ignition hot, but its actually a battery hot and the amp stays on all the time when the truck is off. ive been searching around and trying to find out what people are using as a remote hot, but all ive found was that i need to get a factory service manual. been trying to down load the 72 hour liscense but my order gets locked up on the processing screen. anyway. hopefully someon here whose done the splicing method can help me out

People have been using fuse taps, I’ve seen people use different fuse spots for it. Me personally, the lc2i pro has signal sense and a remote out, so I’m just using the remote out on the LC2i

 

[BootXL76]

Curious on the shallow 12 tho, do you have it under the rear seat or? Any pictures?

 

[chattanoogamav]

Curious on the shallow 12 tho, do you have it under the rear seat or? Any pictures?

i'm going to do the rear seat delete. Im putting race seats in so the back seat has to go at some point for the harnesses. the shallow sub will fit behind the back seat, but you have to cut out some of the trim and other little bits to get the seat to close fully.

 

[BootXL76]

i'm going to do the rear seat delete. Im putting race seats in so the back seat has to go at some point for the harnesses. the shallow sub will fit behind the back seat, but you have to cut out some of the trim and other little bits to get the seat to close fully.

Yeah I’ve been having a hell of a time getting even a 10 back there…. I was running a hertz cs250 S2 in a .75 cu ft sealed box on the floor behind my passenger seat…. Sounded great and there wasn’t a single rattle outside (sub wasn’t shallow enough to work behind seat, mostly because of that damn support rod on the back of the seat near where the latch is). I ended up with an Audison DVC 10 that’s only 3.4 inches too mount depth to fit back there, sounds almost as good inside the truck (only two hours in so I haven’t pushed it), but now it sounds like the entire bed floor is rattling if you stand outside. Trying to figure out how to solve that

 

[Ken Maverick]

Hey all. this weekend i put a 12" fosgate shallow sub in with boss 1100 amp. everything works alright. ( Stock speakers need to go at some point) anyway, i spliced the remote from the amp into the red and white hot wire on the radio harness. assuming it was Ignition hot, but its actually a battery hot and the amp stays on all the time when the truck is off. ive been searching around and trying to find out what people are using as a remote hot, but all ive found was that i need to get a factory service manual. been trying to down load the 72 hour liscense but my order gets locked up on the processing screen. anyway. hopefully someon here whose done the splicing method can help me out

I tapped into fuse #6 for a remote turn on for my sub amp and it works perfectly.

 

[chattanoogamav]

Yeah I’ve been having a hell of a time getting even a 10 back there…. I was running a hertz cs250 S2 in a .75 cu ft sealed box on the floor behind my passenger seat…. Sounded great and there wasn’t a single rattle outside (sub wasn’t shallow enough to work behind seat, mostly because of that damn support rod on the back of the seat near where the latch is). I ended up with an Audison DVC 10 that’s only 3.4 inches too mount depth to fit back there, sounds almost as good inside the truck (only two hours in so I haven’t pushed it), but now it sounds like the entire bed floor is rattling if you stand outside. Trying to figure out how to solve that

idk man thats tricky. i dont get any shake with the shallow 12". Maybe just need more deadening in there?

any way i guess ill go with a fuse tap. probably better to cover all my bases fuse wise anyway.

 

[07_Shelby]

I don't have a pin out diagram for the connectors but I have this if it helps.

 

[chattanoogamav]

I tapped into fuse #6 for a remote turn on for my sub amp and it works perfectly.

I don't have a pin out diagram for the connectors but I have this if it helps.

appreciate the diagrams, dont see any accessory power, remote or any of the sort labeled =(. only battery hot. Im assuming the "HS" can + (Violet/grey) is the ticket, but id rather be safe and sorry and fuse tap the remote.

really appreciate the diagrams though. should help others in the future. Nice pony btw

 

[07_Shelby]

appreciate the diagrams, dont see any accessory power, remote or any of the sort labeled =(. only battery hot. Im assuming the "HS" can + (Violet/grey) is the ticket, but id rather be safe and sorry and fuse tap the remote.

really appreciate the diagrams though. should help others in the future. Nice pony btw

Sorry I don't have a pin out showing the circuits. The HS can + is the high speed CAN-Bus signal for the CAN-Bus network.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Does the head unit have a subwoofer output and remote wire? For the b&o system how fo they do it?

 

[Darnon]

I don't have a pin out diagram for the connectors but I have this if it helps.

Well that's very strange. Are they really running the tweeters off of the (traditionally) rear channel outputs on the B&O amp while the rear + center are off the ACM? That would make wiring a bi-amp front stage Kicker key pretty simple, but means I need to change around the harness I assembled a bit.

Perhaps someone with a Lariat Lux can unplug the B&O amp and see if the rear+center still work?

 

[chattanoogamav]

I tapped into fuse #6 for a remote turn on for my sub amp and it works perfectly.

Sorry I don't have a pin out showing the circuits. The HS can + is the high speed CAN-Bus signal for the CAN-Bus network.

yeah so idk. there is a white and blue wire, which is historically for remote wires. but being ford and not even seeing it labeled on the 6 speaker diagram Im not going to mess with it.

 

[07_Shelby]

appreciate the diagrams, dont see any accessory power, remote or any of the sort labeled =(. only battery hot. Im assuming the "HS" can + (Violet/grey) is the ticket, but id rather be safe and sorry and fuse tap the remote.

really appreciate the diagrams though. should help others in the future. Nice pony btw

thanks...

 

[uh50]

I don't have a pin out diagram for the connectors but I have this if it helps.

Thanks for these...most helpful!

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