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99% sure this is the right thing. Hopefully I’ll be installing on Monday and I’ll confirm. Harness from Best Buy

2 weeks for an appointment and can’t offer a rental til they diagnose. Even then it’s only 30/day…which is not what a rental costs. Called 6 dealers in town. Need it every day to work and I have some basic skills, so I just did it. Also not interested in the dealer crimping on a copper lug to...

You’re interpreting the photo wrong, it terminates to a post connecting to fuse box. It’s also the +, not -

I used this plus anti-ox plus heat shrink on mine, was pretty easy. Hoping it holds up long term. Have to take off the fuse box to access. Worked well with the somewhat flat wire end (due to leftover solder on the failed joint- flat connected to the factory lug) Burndy KPA25 Tin Plated Copper...

Yep, I too have been working on that. I have on order a mechanical lug that is tin plated copper, paired with anti-ox paste and heat shrink. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Burndy-KPA25-Tin-Plated-Copper-Terminal-Lug-4-AWG-1-0-AWG-SCRULUG/111682267

What’s the chance the dealer would tell you what that connector is or how to get one? Looks like a better option than trying to crimp in tight quarters.

No issues yet, functioning correctly. Still makes me nervous long term that my fix will come loose/corrode

It is 100% aluminum on mine, built in Dec.

Confirming what is pictured here, it’s the lug in the middle pic, under the black cover with the arrow pointing sideways in the top pic. These pics are what it looks like with the fuse box out- the fuse box receiver…? also needs to come out to get any hope off accessing that messed up connection...

The cable is aluminum. Not any extra length to do anything with. I cleaned off the terrible solder job with a rotary tool and rounded out the wire as best as possible before crimping on a new connector filled with conductive anti oxidant paste. Hoping it holds long term and doesn’t corrode…or...

It’s the connector closer to the windshield. Mine died. I disassembled and checked the front one and back one closer to windshield. Front one is connected fine. Back one completely came loose after cutting back the wrap. Carefully crimped on a copper lug from oreilly. Hand tool barely fit in...

It’s the one behind the one in front. The cover moves to the left. Harder to access. The front one is crimped pretty well, hidden one isn’t- just a really bad solder job in it. Hard to see without unhooking the front one and removing the fuse box.

get it together an issue a TSB on the hybrid wiring harness. It has effected tons of people now and dealers have to scramble to figure out the solution. Wasting time and money and alienating customers

For mine it’s definitely the cable directly behind the one @Gullzway clamped. I suspect that’s the case everywhere. That one was crimped on and rock solid. The one with issues is significantly harder to access. Many people are probably jiggling the one in front and moving the actual problem one...

Seems to be just that one connection….hopefully. The one right behind the jump point is crimped on and seems solid. Maddening that @Ford Motor Company hasn’t issued a recall or even distributed a TSB yet. My build date was in December 21.

For anyone interested- I did some more investigating under the hood today. The problem terminal is NOT the one that most people are circling in pictures (the one right behind the + jump terminal, with a black cap on it and an image saying don’t jump here)…it is the one BEHIND that. It also has a...

Mine 100% has the issue. For a while, it would "re-energize" everything and work again for a day or two if I jiggle the cable at the defective terminal under the hood. Now it won't, so it requires a jump every time. The dealers are backed up and the part to fix is on backorder. I can't leave my...