Factory integration stereo wiring harnesses

[Gullzway]

Looks like this harness is no longer available. I'm looking to install a Kicker HS10 to the B&O system. Are there any other "basic" options out there? The Plug N Play "Harness Only" kit is $80 now. At that price I think I'd rather just splice into the factory wiring.

If I end up going that route, I should splice the factory sub wire and feed that into EITHER the L or R connection on the HS10... Right??

That's what I did on my HS8, super easy. If only adding a sub I don't see the need for a harness.

I did end up running a remote wire to the fuse box because the speaker line remote option kept turning on the Amp all the time. Every time you open/close the doors the Ford infotainment triggers on, and who knows when else.

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[JG307]

That's what I did on my HS8, super easy. If only adding a sub I don't see the need for a harness.

I did end up running a remote wire to the fuse box because the speaker line remote option kept turning on the Amp all the time. Every time you open/close the doors the Ford infotainment triggers on, and who knows when else.

Looks clean! Are those just little quick splice clips?

Also, I saw you put your sub under the rear bench, where I've seen some others mount behind the rear bench. Looks a lot easier your way.

 

[Gullzway]

Looks clean! Are those just little quick splice clips?

Also, I saw you put your sub under the rear bench, where I've seen some others mount behind the rear bench. Looks a lot easier your way.

Yes, just ones I already had. There's another style that looks cleaner I see here.
(60 Pcs/ 30 Pairs) MCIGICM T-Tap Wire Connectors, T Tap Electrical Connectors Quick Wire Splice Taps and Insulated Male Quick Disconnect Terminal: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Putting it under the seat was way easy, plus I don't think it would fit behind my seat leaving the factory B&O sub installed.

 

[JG307]

Yes, just ones I already had. There's another style that looks cleaner I see here.
(60 Pcs/ 30 Pairs) MCIGICM T-Tap Wire Connectors, T Tap Electrical Connectors Quick Wire Splice Taps and Insulated Male Quick Disconnect Terminal: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Putting it under the seat was way easy, plus I don't think it would fit behind my seat leaving the factory B&O sub installed.

@Darnon @colinl

Dumb question but where do I mount the "bare metal chassis ground" wire? Everything behind the back bench seems to be painted.

 

[Gullzway]

@Darnon @colinl

Dumb question but where do I mount the "bare metal chassis ground" wire? Everything behind the back bench seems to be painted.

I used this one (not my photo.)

 

[colinl]

@Darnon @colinl

Dumb question but where do I mount the "bare metal chassis ground" wire? Everything behind the back bench seems to be painted.

I'm not sure what that ground is but if it's something like the rear window motor it could introduce noise.

Mine goes into a 2x2 distribution block so I can easily wire in a key 200.4 or another amp to replace the factory B&O. At this point I see no need to do that but if I have the truck a good while the B&O might die or I might want to upgrade.

It's a little hard to see. I used steel wool to remove a spot of paint about the size of a nickel and then drilled a small pilot hole just enough to get a self tapping sheet metal screw to start.

 

[Juanderosa]

I chatted with them, they said that one wasn't showing as fitting in their fit guide.

 

[Darnon]

I chatted with them, they said that one wasn't showing as fitting in their fit guide.

Because that adapter linked is for non-B&O systems.

For B&O your options for relatively simple are PAC APH-FD02 (with a little modification), tap the wiring, or disconnect the OE sub and a WPT-1456 pigtail should work. You'll still need to sort out power/ground and probably should run a remote turn-on wire.

 

[Juanderosa]

Nope. Their fit guide says it doesn’t fit a no B&O. Same thing when I put the 2022 Mav.

Because that adapter linked is for non-B&O systems.

For B&O your options for relatively simple are PAC APH-FD02 (with a little modification), tap the wiring, or disconnect the OE sub and a WPT-1456 pigtail should work. You'll still need to sort out power/ground and probably should run a remote turn-on wire.

 

[Darnon]

Nope. Their fit guide says it doesn’t fit a no B&O. Same thing when I put the 2022 Mav.

@blackb13 says it works.

I can confirm that this harness works for the non B&O sound system. Allows for a line out converter and using the factory wiring to amplify the speakers using the stock wiring.

Their install.

 

[TSGTBARCLAY]

I've been following this threat for a few weeks and been to plug n play kits website so many times. My question is I am just looking for a easy upgrade system that can be easily installed and not have to worry about audio issues down the road. Looking a plug n play kits website which package would provide all the adaptors, speakers (best sounding / easy install), and amps.

COMPLETE PACKAGE A
COMPLETE PACKAGE A-1

Plus, I am also looking to run a Kicker HS-10 behind the rear seat. Which adaptors would I need with that setup also? Like I said this is a really good thread for information and idea's on mounting the Kicker sub. I am just looking for what all needs to be ordered to complete the audio upgrade without missing a part or adaptor.

 

[Fil]

I bought this for $60. And got my sub box for my Kicker 46L7T104 L7T Series shallow-mount 10" dual 4-ohm voice coil from Sound Decisions - [email protected] The box is 0.6 cu ft. and about $350 shipped. Here's some pix.

 

[MattinNC]

Can someone confirm if this harness is what I need to connect the Kicker 47KEY200.4 amp to the factory wiring in the non-B&O system? Don't mind doing a bit of wiring, just trying not to splice any factory wires. Hopefully add the amp first then upgrade the speakers. Not clear to me if the
line output converter is needed.


PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness

Thanks!

 

[Fil]

It worked perfectly for my non B&O hybrid. No remote turn on. But you wont need it with that amp as it senses from the speaker inputs.

Can someone confirm if this harness is what I need to connect the Kicker 47KEY200.4 amp to the factory wiring in the non-B&O system? Don't mind doing a bit of wiring, just trying not to splice any factory wires. Hopefully add the amp first then upgrade the speakers. Not clear to me if the
line output converter is needed.


PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness

Thanks!

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