The drain valve is the F137N and the adapter is the ADP-137. You will need the adapter because of the way the oil pan is shaped around the drain opening.
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Also per the Fumoto website both the ADP-137 and ADP-107 are 1/2” adapters for M12 X 1.75 valves. And the F137 & F107 are both M12x1.75 valves. What’s different/why different part numbers?
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I have always done my own oil changes. My first oil change was offered "free" at the dealer so I took advantage of this. When I got home I looked under to see if everything looked right. They left off 1/2 the bolts that attach the protective plate (off-road package). They also removed the rear plate which wasn't required. So back to the dealer....wasted a whole morning.
Now I have a second "free" oil change offer for my trouble. Don't assume your dealer will do the best job...as someone said previously I don't think their A mechanic is doing oil changes.
Now I have a second "free" oil change offer for my trouble. Don't assume your dealer will do the best job...as someone said previously I don't think their A mechanic is doing oil changes.
That's my experience too from multiple dealer's oil change places. They especially like leaving out screws and bolts. I believe that most who think they have great service don't check the work.
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ALL brands have the same problem. I had a "free" oil change on a new car. I foolishly waited until I got home to check it (never again). It was WAY overfilled. Back to the shop. As I was explaining to the guy at the desk, a mechanic overheard and said, "Smith AGAIN?" The desk guy said, "YES". Mechanic walked away shaking his head. "Smith" had a reputation of doing this. He just dumped in oil until he figured it was "close enough". They offered me 5 free oil changes. Probably with the same dummy who screwed it up the first time!!! I said, "No," and never went back. Even switched brands.
We drop off our multi-thousand dollar machines to be serviced by a high school drop out.
We drop off our multi-thousand dollar machines to be serviced by a high school drop out.
"They left off 1/2 the bolts that attach the protective plate". Which is exactly what I thought might happen and part of my reasoning for doing it myself.
The adapter is needed either way. You can use either valve - the F137N has an extended nipple to allow for the easy attachment of a drain tube. The length does not appear to be a factor as the installation is nearly horizontal. It won't be a make or break deal with either configuration. I connect a piece of tubing and drain the old oil straight into an old 5-qt. container and then drop it by my local parts store for recycling.
This is the setup you'll get with the F137N and ADP-137. They fit and work well on the Hybrid 2.5L engine. The other options are different types of valves that should work as well. These work great for me.
As a bonus, when the dealer cut the holes in the cover for the fire hazard recall, they cut out a spot right below the oil drain port. Now I just connect a drain tube to my Fumoto valve and drain the oil. Then I remove the front eight or ten T27 screws and lower the front of the cover enough to change my filter. I don't fully remove the cover anymore.
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Directly from the owners manual and this is the only requirement when changing oil, and it does not require WSS. “We recommend Motorcraft® motor oil for your vehicle. If Motorcraft® oil is not available, use motor oils of the recommended viscosity grade that display the API Certification Mark for gasoline engines.” BTW, Mobil 1 5/30 is WSS.
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It's a Canada vs US thing. When it comes to that kind of stuff it just costs double to buy it yourself here, and has been for years. That and it's a pain to find anywhere that will take used automotive oil too. I'd have to drive for an hour or more to get to place that does it and I live in a major metropolitan area. In the end it's cheaper to have the dealer do it.
That's great but I'm just going to leave this here, also directly from the manual. Pay attention to the use of the word "Specification": As my commander use to say in the Army, "Do whatever your career (warranty) can withstand"Directly from the owners manual and this is the only requirement when changing oil, and it does not require WSS. “We recommend Motorcraft® motor oil for your vehicle. If Motorcraft® oil is not available, use motor oils of the recommended viscosity grade that display the API Certification Mark for gasoline engines.” BTW, Mobil 1 5/30 is WSS.
While we are so similar I have to remember that we are also different.
While we are far from perfect, we can return our used oil to most of the stores that sell it. At least around here where I live.
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