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Dead Hybrid again, AFTER wire harness replacement!

MakinDoForNow

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I've tried it both ways. Having all the connectivity stuff disabled seems to help....it delays the "deep sleep", but eventually, it still sleeps. The cold exacerbates the problem, I think. And no way should the 12 volt battery ever drop to 6 volts.
Seems like the computer is turned off at 7volts on 12v, don't remember a long ago post I read I think someone posted the ICE on occurs around HVB 30% and off at 40%. If computer was turned off when you put jump starter on you will have to wait for the computer to boot up and load it's data (2-3 minutes??) Possibly before it could close the relays???
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JPerata

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Size of the 'jump box' as well. NOCO has boxes from 1200 amp to 4250 amp. I suspect most of the cheaper Amazon ones are far less. I see a lot of folks saying "I got a jump box" but not what SIZE jump box. A lot of the ones on Amazon show "peak amps" which is not a good way to rate something that is trying to crank a starter motor. It's technically not a lie, but it is deceiving.

NOCO isn't cheap but its well made and works. I've had mine for 8 or 9 years and it still works great. Just used it last week on my Jeep.
As I recall, when jumping the hybrid, it is not turning over a starter motor. It is establishing 12 volt circuitry to operate the hvb, which then can operate the motor if needed to start the ice, and all other hvb operations.
 

Jatrax

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As I recall, when jumping the hybrid, it is not turning over a starter motor. It is establishing 12 volt circuitry to operate the hvb, which then can operate the motor if needed to start the ice, and all other hvb operations.
Quite correct, but this was in answer to someone asking about a jump box that COULD start a conventional ICE engine. Thread drift to be sure. I believe from seeing quite a few posts here that most any of the jump boxes will be capable of starting the hybrid since as you say it only needs to power the computers and relays. But if you want a capable jump box that can start an ICE engine take a look at the NOCO line, recommended.
 

Dad

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Amazon does carry the full NOCO line. Just type NOCO into Amazon. It's quite a list.
Mine is a GB40 something. It's an older model but they still have a similar one listed as GB40. It's listed as 1,000 amps. My son got it for me for Christmas at least 8 years ago. I have used it to power our tablet / credit card reader at craft shows for years, works great. And then you can jump start the car when you are ready to leave the craft show. Which I have actually done twice. :)

I also have a NOCO battery charger / conditioner on my motorhome. The leads are wired solid to the battery and it disconnects from those with a quick disconnect. Also has the regular sawtooth grips so can be used elsewhere as a charger. I don't have the model on that but I think it is part of their Genius line.

Here is the attachment accessory. I like it because I'm not grinding up the battery posts on the E450 when I put the charger on. I leave the charger on it on when we are not using it.

Amazon.com: NOCO GC002 X-Connect M6 Eyelet Terminal Accessory for NOCO Genius Smart Battery Chargers : Automotive
Thank you for the detailed reply. Appreciate your efforts to help me out. I looked over the Amazon offerings and spent a couple hours looking at the many YouTube reviews of some of the most common jump starters out there. I finally settled on getting the Hulkman 8.5 from WalMart. I have an RV with a 6.8 liter V10 and where that NOCO GB40 had some trouble starting a smaller V8, the Hulkman had no issues. A bit cheaper as well. Definitely, my second choice would have been the NOCO.
 

Jatrax

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What's the amp rating on the Hulkman?

Glad you got something that works for you. I have the same 6.8l v10 and I've jumped it twice with my NOCO, no problem. But mine is an older model so who knows what they tested.
 

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Scupking

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I think a major part of the issue is all the connectivity stuff and the small 12v battery in the hybrid. They should have 2 12v. One just for accessories and one for starting.
 

OT18

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NOCO and GOOLOO jump starters are both rated very high; not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
 

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Two months after my hybrid received a new wire harness due to the well documented TSB, it died again after sitting for 2 weeks in an airport parking garage.

This time it wouldn't even jump start (and I became quite familiar with jump starting it previously). Tried two different jump packs and the old fashioned way with another running car. Accessory power came on when the jumpers were connected but unlike before, the Maverick wouldn't crank. Dashboard warnings included "Charging System Service Now" and "Stop Safely Now."

Other notes:
1. Maverick is a Lariat hybrid with push button start.
2. 12V battery voltage was below 7.0 both at the battery and under the hood! Similar voltage at both locations.
3. As with much of the US, it was cold but not what I would consider a unique use case. It dipped to 18 deg F two nights during this time and was over 40 deg F when I tried to start it.
4. No "Deep Sleep" warnings from the FordPass app prior to not starting.
5. GPS location was wonky for the first time ever. A couple days into the trip I checked the FordPass app and the vehicle location was a couple blocks from my house, not where I had left it. At the time, I attributed it to a poor signal due to being in a parking garage, but it has correctly reported its location in other garages.
6. Vehicle has sat unused for 3+ weeks before with no issues, but at my house in the summer within WiFi range.

My best guess is the HVB SOC dropped below the minimum needed to crank the ICE, or the HVB wiring degraded to create a similar condition. Either that or the vehicle somehow recognized the 12V battery was so hosed it wouldn't allow it to start even while jumping.

Thoughts? Anyone else experience anything similar?
There's a YouTube where a mechanic is not replacing the harness but he is fixing that connection that failed. Instead of soldering that stranded cable to that plate he crimped a connector on the cable and bolted it to the plate. Much better. It looked like it was easy to inspect that connection. Perhaps that soldered connection failed again?
 

TCPTX65

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If you're not familiar with the Project Farm channel on You Tube, this guy tests different stuff under all sorts of circumstances and he doesn't take anything from manufacturers. Here is his video on car jump starters.

 
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wax87

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Two months after my hybrid received a new wire harness due to the well documented TSB, it died again after sitting for 2 weeks in an airport parking garage.

This time it wouldn't even jump start (and I became quite familiar with jump starting it previously). Tried two different jump packs and the old fashioned way with another running car. Accessory power came on when the jumpers were connected but unlike before, the Maverick wouldn't crank. Dashboard warnings included "Charging System Service Now" and "Stop Safely Now."

Other notes:
1. Maverick is a Lariat hybrid with push button start.
2. 12V battery voltage was below 7.0 both at the battery and under the hood! Similar voltage at both locations.
3. As with much of the US, it was cold but not what I would consider a unique use case. It dipped to 18 deg F two nights during this time and was over 40 deg F when I tried to start it.
4. No "Deep Sleep" warnings from the FordPass app prior to not starting.
5. GPS location was wonky for the first time ever. A couple days into the trip I checked the FordPass app and the vehicle location was a couple blocks from my house, not where I had left it. At the time, I attributed it to a poor signal due to being in a parking garage, but it has correctly reported its location in other garages.
6. Vehicle has sat unused for 3+ weeks before with no issues, but at my house in the summer within WiFi range.

My best guess is the HVB SOC dropped below the minimum needed to crank the ICE, or the HVB wiring degraded to create a similar condition. Either that or the vehicle somehow recognized the 12V battery was so hosed it wouldn't allow it to start even while jumping.

Thoughts? Anyone else experience anything similar?
disconnect the negative side of the battery and jump it with the POS and directly to the fram somewhere?
 

JimParker256

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I think a major part of the issue is all the connectivity stuff and the small 12v battery in the hybrid. They should have 2 12v. One just for accessories and one for starting.
Why? It's well established that the 12V battery is NOT used for starting, only for "activating" the relays that allow the HVB to start the ICE.
 

jsus

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Why? It's well established that the 12V battery is NOT used for starting, only for "activating" the relays that allow the HVB to start the ICE.
Not who you were responding to, but it sounds like one 12V battery would be reserved solely to power up the powertrain (which doesn't take much and doesn't need much in terms of CCA as the eCVT pulls from the HVB to start the ICE, both at rest and in motion).

Separate from that, a 12V battery would power all of the accessories.

This would allow for the 12V "accessory" battery to become discharged without rendering the vehicle into a state where it is unable to start, as the 12V "powertrain" battery would remain charged.

Keep in mind that what the BMS is supposed to do is to prevent the 12V battery from discharging to the point where the vehicle is unable to start. This is where deep sleep mode comes in. The car is shutting down nonessential features in an attempt to prevent the battery from discharging much further, allowing you to stra the vehicle when you need it next. Think of it like keeping a reserve in the 12V battery so you can start the vehicle. It's not a perfect system - nothing mechanical or electrical ever will be - but that's what it's already doing.

Note that this of course applies equally to the 12V batteries in Hybrid and EcoBoost-powered Mavericks, though they use different battery sizes/capacities, and may have different thresholds for deep sleep mode, etc..
 
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WeylandYutani

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What is the minimum voltage required by your jump starter needed to verify that it is connected to a 12v battery? My noco requires 2v. Maybe yours requires more volts to recognize 12v battery and thought you had a fully charged 6v battery. Does your jump starter have a bypass procedure and allow a 12v selectable jump? I don't think my hybrid XLT LUX would last three weeks. In my garage at 45-48°F my voltage will drop 0.2-0.3v overnight. Lowest I have noticed before I put truck in ready state was 11.6v significantly less than the 12.8 apparent fully charged. I am taking readings at the dash power point with all possible accessories off. The reading if you get close to truck will be reduced somewhat since at least computer is running and as such you will be taking an open circuit reading.
I don't know the minimum voltage required for my lithium jump pack but it does have a "boost" setting which sounds like the bypass procedure (which I did not have to use to wake the relays). That said, I also tried jumping with a 1700 amp lead acid (judging by the weight) jump pack courtesy of the parking garage and via another running vehicle's 12V battery. All 3 methods yielded the same result, vehicle awakened but would not "start" i.e. go into "ready" mode.

Since the Maverick is still new, I did some research on the Escape hybrid. Looks like Ford upgraded that 12V battery after one model year to a higher capacity Group 48 AGM but reverted to a smaller Group 99R flooded lead acid battery for the Maverick hybrid.

https://www.fordescape.org/threads/2020-2022-ford-escape-hybrid-battery-problems.116699/
 

MakinDoForNow

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I don't know the minimum voltage required for my lithium jump pack but it does have a "boost" setting which sounds like the bypass procedure (which I did not have to use to wake the relays). That said, I also tried jumping with a 1700 amp lead acid (judging by the weight) jump pack courtesy of the parking garage and via another running vehicle's 12V battery. All 3 methods yielded the same result, vehicle awakened but would not "start" i.e. go into "ready" mode.

Since the Maverick is still new, I did some research on the Escape hybrid. Looks like Ford upgraded that 12V battery after one model year to a higher capacity Group 48 AGM but reverted to a smaller Group 99R flooded lead acid battery for the Maverick hybrid.

https://www.fordescape.org/threads/2020-2022-ford-escape-hybrid-battery-problems.116699/
Reverted to the 99R probably because it's shorter and mav was designed for it to fit under seat. I'm thinking adding a second 99R might be an option. But then would have to balance them periodically. The booster will put out many more amps than a battery. Ford is most likely working on a solution.
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