2000 watt Hybrid inverter as generator

[not null]

A thanks to @TimeOutside for posting their 2000 Watt Removable Inverter Installation. This is basically their design with some more pictures. I plan to use this as an emergency generator if/when we lose power for a while.

The parts I used are: Inverted, Fuse Holder, Wire, 5/16 Lugs, Disconnect, Kydex sheet and a Crimper.

The threads on the battery terminals, inverter, and fuse holder are all M8-1.25. Needed one metric nut for the battery terminal with a 5/16 lock washer and washers.

All you folks who work with 2/0, respect man. My usual is 12 gauge and I wasn't ready for the ... challenge ... of working with 2/0. Every part of the job was a learning experience and, surprisingly, took longer than expected. The disconnect and fuse holders were both significantly larger than I had envisioned when shopping online.

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[colinl]

I plan to use this as an emergency generator if/when we lose power for a while.

... like, for your home? 120V 16A is not useless, kinda useful to charge phones, etc and I get that. but you're not running HVAC (not even a window mount) or a full size refrigerator for sure. air fryer and microwave could be useful, but you can cook with propane easier than burning gasoline to charge high voltage battery, to charge 12V battery, to power inverter.

I'm not trying to hate. I'm trying to understand what all is in your plan for emergency power loss? this isn't like a F150 Powerboost generating 7.2kW.

 

[bgn]

That inverter is no joke! Thanks for sharing. Lots of power for an outage, though.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

... like, for your home? 120V 16A is not useless, kinda useful to charge phones, etc and I get that. but you're not running HVAC (not even a window mount) or a full size refrigerator for sure. air fryer and microwave could be useful, but you can cook with propane easier than burning gasoline to charge high voltage battery, to charge 12V battery, to power inverter.

I'm not trying to hate. I'm trying to understand what all is in your plan for emergency power loss? this isn't like a F150 Powerboost generating 7.2kW.

My full size fridge, freezer and/or spare fridge all draw 5 amps each running, that Renogy has a 4000 watt surge capability, IMO you could certainly run a current fridge or freezer. Maybe not a 20-30 year old one, but I think there's a fair chance of saving the food and/or sump pump.

HRG

 

[710-oil-614]

I'm all for folks modifying their Mavericks but this is one that I think would void your HV battery warranty in Ford's eyes and that juice just isn't worth the squeeze.

My Bluetti solar generator (1.1kwh) cost $440, and my 200w solar panel keeps it juiced up and not impacting my Maverick.

 

[colinl]

My full size fridge, freezer and/or spare fridge all draw 5 amps each running, that Renogy has a 4000 watt surge capability, IMO you could certainly run a current fridge or freezer.

I didn't look at the inverter but I saw he has a 250A fuse linked, which is 3000w, so that's going to be an upper bound.

A refrigerator could work by itself, sure. Or a mini-split.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

... like, for your home? 120V 16A is not useless, kinda useful to charge phones, etc and I get that. but you're not running HVAC (not even a window mount) or a full size refrigerator for sure. air fryer and microwave could be useful, but you can cook with propane easier than burning gasoline to charge high voltage battery, to charge 12V battery, to power inverter.

I'm not trying to hate. I'm trying to understand what all is in your plan for emergency power loss? this isn't like a F150 Powerboost generating 7.2kW.

My R32 Midea 12,000 BTU window unit is rated 12.15A/115 volts is a cool only unit. I considered my hybrid mav as an emergency backup since I had experience from the 14 day Texas freeze. It's hard to increase the grid capacity as there are more than 1100/day moving to Texas.

 

[Bill K]

Huh?? ‍. I’m pleased I can draw 12 volts from the cigar lighter socket

 

[paneubert]

... like, for your home? 120V 16A is not useless, kinda useful to charge phones, etc and I get that. but you're not running HVAC (not even a window mount) or a full size refrigerator for sure. air fryer and microwave could be useful, but you can cook with propane easier than burning gasoline to charge high voltage battery, to charge 12V battery, to power inverter.

I'm not trying to hate. I'm trying to understand what all is in your plan for emergency power loss? this isn't like a F150 Powerboost generating 7.2kW.

Also not trying to hate (really, I am not). But....you vastly overestimate the amperage needed to start the compressor on even a 20 year old full sized refrigerator or chest freezer. Also what it takes to run a natural gas furnace that only needs to power the blower fan. My furnace blower can run on something like 300 watts, and I am heating a 5 bedroom house.

Here are my readings for the fridges and freezers in my house. These were the "peak" numbers and only were present for a fraction of a second. I let the watt meter run for 24 hours on each appliance so that I could ensure I captured the peak wattage/amperage of each.

These 4 readings were for 2 chest freezers and 2 full size side by side refrigerator/freezers. 1 of the chest freezers is "really old", the other about 10 years old. One of the side by side refrigerator/freezers is "really old", the other is about 3 or 4 years old and more efficient (it is the one where the photo includes the product label).


Full disclaimer, took these readings since I plan this exact same project.

 

[not null]

I'm all for folks modifying their Mavericks but this is one that I think would void your HV battery warranty in Ford's eyes and that juice just isn't worth the squeeze.

My Bluetti solar generator (1.1kwh) cost $440, and my 200w solar panel keeps it juiced up and not impacting my Maverick.

Can you tell me more about your setup? 1.1kw = 1100w right? Is there a battery as part of it?

 

[not null]

You vastly overestimate the amperage needed to start the compressor on even a 20 year old full sized refrigerator or chest freezer. Here are my readings. These were the "peak" numbers and only were present for a fraction of a second. I let the watt meter run for 24 hours on each appliance so that I could ensure I captured the peak wattage/amperage of each.

These 4 readings were for 2 chest freezers and 2 full size side by side refrigerator/freezers. Full disclaimer, took these readings since I plan this exact same project.

Brilliant! Thank you.

My winter "plan" is a combination of a recent fridge and recent freezer, hot water gas boiler (1 amp circulator pump, plus the igniter) and when those are off, an 1800w induction hot plate.
In the summer we can head to the basement if it's too hot.

 

[Deleted member 7089]

I'm all for folks modifying their Mavericks but this is one that I think would void your HV battery warranty in Ford's eyes and that juice just isn't worth the squeeze.

Why would it void the HV battery warranty when he's clearly plugged into the 12V ? Not even sure how the HV battery would even be solicited, if at all, with this setup in the first place.

 

[paneubert]

Why would it void the HV battery warranty when he's clearly plugged into the 12V ? Not even sure how the HV battery would even be solicited, if at all, with this setup in the first place.

To be fair, the HV is called on by the BMS on the 12v battery to charge it when it gets low. So in this setup, while not directly connected to the HV, the HV is involved by association/tangentially. But I agree that there is little warranty risk here since the "man in the middle" is the 12v battery. Not suuuuuuuuuuuper cheap to replace if somehow fried, but also not the thousands that would cost to replace the HV.

 

[paneubert]

Brilliant! Thank you.

My winter "plan" is a combination of a recent fridge and recent freezer, hot water gas boiler (1 amp circulator pump, plus the igniter) and when those are off, an 1800w induction hot plate.
In the summer we can head to the basement if it's too hot.

That is similar to my plan. Substitute in for your "hot water gas boiler" with what I just read from the label inside my gas furnace is only a 1 amp (at 120V) furnace blower. I am surprised it is only 1 amp... My fridges and freezers will be plugged in two at a time (with a pause between plugging in number 1 and number 2 so that the compressor spike can go away) for maybe an hour at a time once or twice per day to keep things chilly. This all assumes my power outage lasts days and days. In reality, my area's outages tend to last around 24 hours. So implementing the Mav as a generator thing will only come into play when things get......really dicey......and the writing on the wall tells me that I am going to be off the grid long enough for my food to spoil (essentially if the power is still out after about 12 hours and there is no indication the power company is making any progress on restoration).

 

[Deleted member 7089]

To be fair, the HV is called on by the BMS on the 12v battery to charge it when it gets low. So in this setup, while not directly connected to the HV, the HV is involved by association/tangentially. But I agree that there is little warranty risk here since the "man in the middle" is the 12v battery. Not suuuuuuuuuuuper cheap to replace if somehow fried, but also not the thousands that would cost to replace the HV.

Thanks, I would have thought that when the motor is running, the 12V battery is charged from the ICE and not the HV battery.

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