Tracking DEAD HYBRID Mavericks Reported Dealer Solutions / Fixes ...

[clavicus]

Consensus in other threads is to use a copper clad crimp-on lug.

Do you disagree with that? If so, why?

I recall following code for my 100 amp sub panel to a detached garage I built, I used 1/0 aluminum and had to use “noalox” anti-oxidant goo for the connections into the 100a breakers. Is that only part of the issue since you mention potential loosening from different contraction/expansion rates with temperature. But I wonder in this case with a lug that is crimped to all heck, would that difference matter enough?

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[Mach 1]

Copper clad, or straight up aluminum. Deox wouldnt hurt.
As the electrons flow the aluminum starts to resonate, as long as electricity is flowing the aluminum is moving. It does this at a different frequency then other metals.
These 2 metals are just not compatible and dont play well together.
The lug i was going to use(until i went into my connection to determine it is was intact) was straight up aluminum cladded.
I would believe that the correct repair from Ford would be harness replacement, that way Ford would be doing a consistant repair across the board.
This bring new problems, because you have to tear the truck apart pretty good.

 

[Hoagus]

I wonder in this case with a lug that is crimped to all heck, would that difference matter enough?

I don’t know enough to answer that, but others have mentioned various coatings/pastes that they say need to be applied to prevent oxidation and whatever happens when dissimilar metals are joined. Plus, some of them used various tapes/wrappings to further protect the connection. Given the materials involved, I tend to agree with a propensity to err on the side of caution. Fix it once, by fixing it right.

 

[Mach 1]

Heres the majic guy...no crimpers needed, just a torque wrench.

These are aluminum, with an Aluminum clad rating and can be used with copper, of wait i am not using copper!

I was going to use this on my truck, but now if you are in central tx. I wont use copper in this application cause i dont want to endangered someones Mav.

 

[kenswebdesign]

I recall following code for my 100 amp sub panel to a detached garage I built, I used 1/0 aluminum and had to use “noalox” anti-oxidant goo for the connections into the 100a breakers. Is that only part of the issue since you mention potential loosening from different contraction/expansion rates with temperature. But I wonder in this case with a lug that is crimped to all heck, would that difference matter enough?

That goo you put on your panel is because of the dissimilar metals from copper to AL. If you use an AL Lug on the AL Wire, you should not need it. If you use a copper lug, then it would be a good idea.

 

[huunvubu]

Credit goes to @Last Truck Ever

Hybrid Harness TSB, with impacted dates

This answers the questions from forum members who are wondering if the current builds or even if MY23 builds for the Hybrid could still have the problem.

Looks like if your build was after May 13th then the problem will not happen.

This exact date in the TSB seems like Ford narrowed it down to faulty build of batch(s) of the cables and after the date new batches were used that did not have the issue.

 

[Dad]

I don’t know enough to answer that, but others have mentioned various coatings/pastes that they say need to be applied to prevent oxidation and whatever happens when dissimilar metals are joined. Plus, some of them used various tapes/wrappings to further protect the connection. Given the materials involved, I tend to agree with a propensity to err on the side of caution. Fix it once, by fixing it right.

I agree with fixing it correctly, however, I would be concerned if the diy fixing would void your warranty. I had the battery problem and took it in to Ford to correct, so if it continues to be a problem it's on them.

 

[Hoagus]

I agree with fixing it correctly, however, I would be concerned if the diy fixing would void your warranty. I had the battery problem and took it in to Ford to correct, so if it continues to be a problem it's on them.

Unfortunately, it seems the dealer fix is a new harness, which likely comes out of the same bin as the ones that already failed. Since this is not part of the hybrid drive train, it’s not covered under that lengthy portion of the warranty. So, would it pay to purchase the extended warranty, or would it be better to use that money to pay an automotive electronics specialist to fix it right?

 

[uga]

Call around and find a Ford dealer that has seen this issue, most will just replace the connector under warranty, easy job.

 

[Dad]

Unfortunately, it seems the dealer fix is a new harness, which likely comes out of the same bin as the ones that already failed. Since this is not part of the hybrid drive train, it’s not covered under that lengthy portion of the warranty. So, would it pay to purchase the extended warranty, or would it be better to use that money to pay an automotive electronics specialist to fix it right?

My fix was covered under original warranty (4.5k miles).

 

[Hoagus]

My fix was covered under original warranty (4.5k miles).

Sure, but will it still be under warranty next time?

Ford hopes it won’t.

 

[Dad]

Sure, but will it still be under warranty next time?

Ford hopes it won’t.

I have the extended warranty, so yes, it will be., but your point is well taken.

 

[georgestephanis]

Unfortunately, it seems the dealer fix is a new harness, which likely comes out of the same bin as the ones that already failed. [...]

I don't think that's the case. The Technical Service Bulletin on the issue 22-2340 says that it only impacts Maverick Hybrids produced on or before 13 May 2022 -- so presumably after that point they started making better wire terminations, and that's what they're shipping out for warranty replacements.

As the problem is just the wire termination isn't staying on the wire properly, even if they repaired the existing wire termination, if properly repaired, they should be just fine to drive on forever. Preferably with a mechanical crimped connection instead of just soldering it on though.

My Mav Hybrid caught the issue, I'm just jumping it when I need to drive somewhere for now, but my dealer ordered the right "LX6Z 14290 PA" part everyone else is getting. Only issue I had was that supposedly they described the diagnostic as an issue with the high-voltage wire, when it's actually the 12v wire. But when I checked they had identified the right wire, it was just described badly.

 

[Mymaverick2021]

My Mav was delivered to the dealership's service department today. They immediately authorized a rental for five days and will look to Ford for guidance (approval) to repair the connection or replace the cable and harness. I prefer the repair if they are just going to replace it with the same thing. They don't have a time range for the work at this point but said it could be up to four weeks based on the course of action. FMC is corresponding with me through DM on this site. I'm hoping they will authorize additional rental time if needed as it is the right thing to do. I have reported the issue to the NHTSA and purchased a Type S 800MAH Portable Jump Starter from Costco ($59). Two significant issues so far are: 1.) Why would the dealership initially tell me that the tow would not be covered? - this is not on Ford. And, 2.) There is obviously a large enough affected sample that Ford should act preemptively instead of waiting for customers to be stranded - just good customer service.

I still like the truck and I'm content with the purchase.

If I had that problem with my hybrid I would insist that the dealer Just Replace the bad connector on the end of the wiring harness not go through the long and arduous wait for a brand new harness the video showing the repair of the cable connector Under the hood of the truck is a far better solution to replacing the harness with another harness that might possibly be bad. Ford's vendor tried to sodder aluminum to copper wiring that's where the failure was on the harness that everybody's have a problem with

 

[Klege]

I posted my NEW issue on another thread on this forum. The link is below. Basically the low voltage issue moved on to a different cable. I fixed the original harness issue with below pictured terminals. I also used a piece of copper plate to make the whole thing a little longer and take the tension out of the connection/cable.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...dead-hybrid-mavericks-issue.16671/post-565332

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