Ah that’s an easy answer: only fuse #3 and #6 are ignition-only micro2 fuse slots. You will need to use one of those, or a micro3 fuse tap using fuse #1/2. Thats what I did — 5amp is plenty for dashcam. Lots of others use #3 or #6.
Can you clarify:
Depending on the rotation of the wheels (ring gear) compared to the sun gear (generator motor), thats how the power is applied from the planet carrier/planets (engine) to the wheels (ring gear) directly — no need whatsoever to use generator motor to make any electricity...
That's cool I hadn't seen that post, looks like a good project. I think you still might want to clarify with someone more experience if the double-tap option is a safe bet since that's getting a little beyond my confidence level, I only feel confident in the really simple use cases of adding a...
I edited too late, here's another thought:
Lets assume each pad only uses like 4-5 amps max. So the fuse tap would work, the 5amp fuses on each tap line would be independent of the 10 amp original fuse.
BUT: Someone with more knowledge of the wiring of vehicle fuse panels may want to weigh in...
That really depends on the amperage draw of each/both of the heat pads. My intuition is that those will be drawing way more than 5 amps each at 12v, but I'm not familiar with such products so I don't actually know.
EDIT:
Ok lets assume each pad only uses 4 amps max. So the fuse tap would work...
Some dealers wont replace it, claiming the battery does not prevent vehicle from starting so it’s meeting specification (or some similar bs). Hopefully that’s a rare case, because I need to have mine serviced for this issue as well.
Hmm.. Might be a silly question but did you put both the original fuse into the tap in the appropriate slot, along with a (5 amp?) fuse that came with the kit? Checked both fuses to make sure they aren’t busted?
In the (D) section it looks like the top one out of the four shown is a micro2 fuse tap, so if you are looking for an alternate accessory power (ignition only) fuse to tap, a lot of people use fuse #3 or fuse #6 which are micro2 format. If I'm not mistaken, Fuse #3 looks like it's easier to fit...
If you care to test, I recall others saying they disabled telematics/modem in system settings, and they did not experience significant battery drain. Maybe that test can narrow down if that’s what’s sucking your battery down to deep sleep levels and keeping it there? I guess that would possibly...
I use Sport Mode sometimes to feel a more 'direct' feeling between pushing the pedal and the engine response. I really hate the fake shifting. So your discovery is great for me! Thanks!
If I recall, the optimal thermal efficiency of these engines are just under 40%. So yeah that tracks that a 100% fuel-efficient car of this type would be somewhere around 120mpg.
The first week of hybrid builds started September 13th 2022 [edit: 2021 i mean] (ah the old days — mine was on the line that week). I guess they created the engine components earlier than that though.
I haven’t seen these fuse taps like this before. I could be wrong, but it looks like this will be putting BOTH the original system load and your new load on the same fuse as it’s shown in that picture. Another fuse wired off of that tap would only make sense if it was LESS than the original...