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Dad

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I would think i would be more concerned with the repair, then if it was to break down.

The repair is a very critical connection point. The battery cable is Aluminum, the only type of lug to be used is Copper Clad(DO NOT use straight copper, remember all the houses in the 70/80s that were using aluminum wiring). Using CU on AL will cause all types of errors down the road. The connection can get very hot if CU is used on an Al wire.

Then theres good old galvanic corrosion, when dissimilar metal are connected and the environment comes attacking, not good again.

Soldering to aluminum is almost impossible, specialized flux, solder, and controlled conditions are required.

Then theres battery cable replacement, a good portion of the truck has to be dismantled for replacement, then theres the parts shortage to contend with.

So probably the best solution is to PROPERLY crimp a copper/clad eyelet, in a very tight space, dont forget the heat shrink. Absolutely do not add any bolts, connection points, metals beside coper clad, or you have worsened the problem.

This needs to be fixed correctlly the first time. Over time is when you will see incorrect repairs that were improperly repaired fail. The 12v battery powers the processors, that will only work correctly with clean, STABLE voltage.

Your LONGTERM RELIABILITY depends on the correct repair procedure and materials.
As usual, an informative post!
I have as recently as yesterday joined the Dead Maverick Club. When a Lariat trim loses its 12 volt system, it transforms itself into a door stop. Since I wasn't sure what the specific problem was, I used Ford Pass to send out a tow. Jumped it to start, but wouldn't restart, so I drove it to the dealer (why do service departments close early on Saturdays?) and left it for a Monday.
Thanks to your post, I know what questions to ask regarding how it was repaired.
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Larrythelunatic

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As usual, an informative post!
I have as recently as yesterday joined the Dead Maverick Club. When a Lariat trim loses its 12 volt system, it transforms itself into a door stop. Since I wasn't sure what the specific problem was, I used Ford Pass to send out a tow. Jumped it to start, but wouldn't restart, so I drove it to the dealer (why do service departments close early on Saturdays?) and left it for a Monday.
Thanks to your post, I know what questions to ask regarding how it was repaired.
“Dead Maverick Club”……….
I like that.
Hope never to join!
 

Mach 1

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I just did a very detailed write up in the issues threads.

Sorry to hear dad, you could have used my info, heck if you lived closer i could do your repair for you but done it correctly according to IEEE code.
 
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Sneakerjutsu

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Please ask the dealer for the technician service report and post a copy ... thanks
Just picked up today 9/12 and they replaced wiring harness. Here is the photo of service that was completed. Surprisingly the parts came in quick. 6 day wait time

Ford Maverick Tracking DEAD HYBRID Mavericks Reported Dealer Solutions / Fixes ... 20220912_174552


Ford Maverick Tracking DEAD HYBRID Mavericks Reported Dealer Solutions / Fixes ... 20220912_174648
 

Mach 1

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Mach 1

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Dang thats alot of labor. I thought I might have saw where you even have to mess with HVB system, because of the cable routing. I don't have my HV gloves yet, dang it.
 

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Plus, no idea if the harness has changed, updated, different supplier, etc.
 

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AutoNation opted for the “repair”over the “replace” fix on my Maverick. It was delivered to them on Thursday and they called saying it was ready late Friday. They also completed the recall on the engine splash guard and grill. The holes are neatly cut. Someone mentioned a good way to clean up the fuzzy edges. Ill try to find that. I’m glad they repaired the issue for now. Once the part is properly engineered I’ll be ok with a replacement.
 

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Dang thats alot of labor. I thought I might have saw where you even have to mess with HVB system, because of the cable routing. I don't have my HV gloves yet, dang it.
Thinking about possibly ordering a hybrid but reading these issues crop up is giving me pause. I know we don't know what's causing these various issues but do you guys think these issues would be covered under the 8 year 100K hybrid warranty or just the regular 3/36 warranty?
 

Dad

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Thinking about possibly ordering a hybrid but reading these issues crop up is giving me pause. I know we don't know what's causing these various issues but do you guys think these issues would be covered under the 8 year 100K hybrid warranty or just the regular 3/36 warranty?
Since this is clearly a factory defect, it should be covered under both warranties.
 
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flashfearless

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Ford Boss Me (master mechanic on youtube) posted a video tonight on his diagnostic process on repairing this issue. He muttered A LOT under his breath about the extent of dirt and corrosion in the junction box, implying poor materials along the way and speculating that this one sat a long time in the Mexican desert wating to be picked up.

 

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He gets awfully touchy about criticism but relying solely on a multimeter for a voltage drop can lead you astray. That's why if you watch over on South Main Auto he'll often use a lightbulb to confirm a circuit is properly amperage carrying. A bad ground or (likely being the cable terminal in this case) a poor connection/wire can show full voltage with the little amount of load a multimeter applies. Put something that draws actual current and poof goes the voltage.
 

Mach 1

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Ford boss me, you tuber, he hasn't finished troubleshooting his problem child there in the video, he hasn't even addressed the battery cable lug connection. I did not see any corrosion in my fuse box.
If he was in tune with the Maverick community, he could have been done.
He can see by my post where the problem is. Make it easy on yourself. I am glad I didn't have to rebuild my fuse box, mine was still sealed, jeez looked like that electronics were from a salvage yard, that was a flood car?

Hope this helps

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/hybrid-battery-cable-lug-inspect.20063/
 

uga

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Ford Boss Me (master mechanic on youtube) posted a video tonight on his diagnostic process on repairing this issue. He muttered A LOT under his breath about the extent of dirt and corrosion in the junction box, implying poor materials along the way and speculating that this one sat a long time in the Mexican desert wating to be picked up.

Excellent Video that shows many potential issues!

Best to go to a Ford dealer, get everything documented, so full warranty remains in effect.
 

Mach 1

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Or fix it correcty myself. I have seen some of the repairs that are being done for this, theres no consistant repair, theres like 6 different repairs.
The only way these should be repaired is with a new harness.
I have seen copper lugs being used, which is a huge red flag.

I dont like dealerships, the ones here, all i get is we cant replicate the problem. I still have my 2018 F150, i complained about the brakes, dealer said brakes are fine.
I had them note it against my VIN.
Theres a class action lawsuit out on 2015-2018 F150, guess what for? Brakes! So sign me up.

There are more and more class action law suits because we as customers get pushed aside and dont have any power to get work done.

I believe i saw a class action law suit the other day for the Mavs, i dont blame these customers.
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