As usual, an informative post!I would think i would be more concerned with the repair, then if it was to break down.
The repair is a very critical connection point. The battery cable is Aluminum, the only type of lug to be used is Copper Clad(DO NOT use straight copper, remember all the houses in the 70/80s that were using aluminum wiring). Using CU on AL will cause all types of errors down the road. The connection can get very hot if CU is used on an Al wire.
Then theres good old galvanic corrosion, when dissimilar metal are connected and the environment comes attacking, not good again.
Soldering to aluminum is almost impossible, specialized flux, solder, and controlled conditions are required.
Then theres battery cable replacement, a good portion of the truck has to be dismantled for replacement, then theres the parts shortage to contend with.
So probably the best solution is to PROPERLY crimp a copper/clad eyelet, in a very tight space, dont forget the heat shrink. Absolutely do not add any bolts, connection points, metals beside coper clad, or you have worsened the problem.
This needs to be fixed correctlly the first time. Over time is when you will see incorrect repairs that were improperly repaired fail. The 12v battery powers the processors, that will only work correctly with clean, STABLE voltage.
Your LONGTERM RELIABILITY depends on the correct repair procedure and materials.
I have as recently as yesterday joined the Dead Maverick Club. When a Lariat trim loses its 12 volt system, it transforms itself into a door stop. Since I wasn't sure what the specific problem was, I used Ford Pass to send out a tow. Jumped it to start, but wouldn't restart, so I drove it to the dealer (why do service departments close early on Saturdays?) and left it for a Monday.
Thanks to your post, I know what questions to ask regarding how it was repaired.
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