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socaljohn

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Drove to the dealership and asked them to check on truck before I picked it up. They confirmed that the new battery is now dead and wrote down the wiring harness part number that was posted here. Truck is back in the shop.

July 8th, Dealer is blaming a small key amp as the issue. It has been in the truck for 6000 miles with no issue, waiting for car stereo shop to diagnose and then back to another dealer. They ignored all my requests regarding wiring harness. Anyone have a Southern CA dealer that is aware of wiring harness issue?
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999

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The sky is not falling?


so Far only 2 people have posted with the problem harness, I like to see a hard count of actual people that had the problem so far of all the treads I have seen I counted 7 with the problem harness out of 86k trucks built so far.
 

999

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In my experience, common sense, logic and reason are always HELPFUL.


Why are you even posting! You are no help what so ever, to down play an issue to make yourself feel better and others worst.. Get the f out of here!
 

kenswebdesign

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My XLT Luxury/co-pilot 360 truck was dead in my driveway Friday. No power at all, no lights no nothing. Battery voltage was 12.6V which is fine. But when I measured the voltage at the jump start terminal under the hood, it was 2.5V. This is proof that the cable from the battery to the engine is bad with the bad terminal connection.

I had it towed to Ford and talked to the service guy. I told him about this thread and that it was probably that bad cable / lug / connection, and he said he was familiar with it AND he told me that Ford has issued a TSB on this cable issue. They used aluminum wire in that cable to save a few bucks and a few pounds of weight, but aluminum is pretty crappy compared to copper wiring... especially at connection points.

So, if what he told me is correct Ford is now recognizing this problem and will hopefully have a fix.

BTW, when the tow truck guy came, I asked him to put a jump box on that jumper terminal, and he showed 1 Volt at the terminal, but as soon as he hooked up, the truck started right up. I think the engine computers and such need the 12V power to run, so carrying one of those small jump boxes in the truck would be cheap insurance in case it was to happen again. A very small one would be fine because it is not starting the truck... it just needs to power up the computers and ignition... once the truck started, he pulled the jump box and it still continued to run normally. So, if something has to be wrong, letting a simple cable be the problem is way better than if it was some major mechanical part.

But, I am getting one of those small jump boxed from amazon, and I will keep it under the back seat just in case.
 

kenswebdesign

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FOR FUTURE REFERENCE: If one needs to <manually> put the vehicle in "Neutral" for towing.

1654387202105-png.webp


From Owner's Manual - Pages 186/187:
USING "MANUAL PARK RELEASE"
Activating the manual Park Release Cable

  1. Apply the Parking Brake. See Electric Parking Brake (Page 194). NOTE: If the battery is dead, for example, no electrical power available, you could need an external power source to apply the parking brake.
  2. Remove the access cover with a tool or key by prying the panel in the upper corner.
  3. Locate the manual park release tether in the center console.
  4. Switch the ignition on but do not start your vehicle. NOTE: do not activate the manual park release with the engine started.
  5. Once in the drivers seat, fully apply the brake pedal and hold. Do not release. Pull the tether strap rearward until engaged. If done correctly, a message appears in the instrument cluster. NOTE: There is an audible click when you pull the tether back in the locked position.
  6. With your foot still fully applied on the brake pedal, disengage the parking brake. See Electric Parking Brake (Page 194). ---> **NOTE: Your vehicle is now out of the "Park" (P) position and is free to roll** <---
  7. Your vehicle remains in "Neutral" (N) for emergency towing purposes.
Has anyone tried this? My truck died and I pulled that little access port open and reached in there and looked with a flashlight, and the only thing I saw was a wire harness... no "Tether" to pull and no white button to push to return it back to normal.
 

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VAMavOwner

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My XLT Luxury/co-pilot 360 truck was dead in my driveway Friday. No power at all, no lights no nothing. Battery voltage was 12.6V which is fine. But when I measured the voltage at the jump start terminal under the hood, it was 2.5V. This is proof that the cable from the battery to the engine is bad with the bad terminal connection.

I had it towed to Ford and talked to the service guy. I told him about this thread and that it was probably that bad cable / lug / connection, and he said he was familiar with it AND he told me that Ford has issued a TSB on this cable issue. They used aluminum wire in that cable to save a few bucks and a few pounds of weight, but aluminum is pretty crappy compared to copper wiring... especially at connection points.

So, if what he told me is correct Ford is now recognizing this problem and will hopefully have a fix.

BTW, when the tow truck guy came, I asked him to put a jump box on that jumper terminal, and he showed 1 Volt at the terminal, but as soon as he hooked up, the truck started right up. I think the engine computers and such need the 12V power to run, so carrying one of those small jump boxes in the truck would be cheap insurance in case it was to happen again. A very small one would be fine because it is not starting the truck... it just needs to power up the computers and ignition... once the truck started, he pulled the jump box and it still continued to run normally. So, if something has to be wrong, letting a simple cable be the problem is way better than if it was some major mechanical part.

But, I am getting one of those small jump boxed from amazon, and I will keep it under the back seat just in case.

I bought a jump box and was able to bring my truck back to life as well. But as soon as I turned it off after about 10 minutes of hybrid driving (engine running the whole time), it died again. I'm suspecting whatever connects the 12vdc battery to the under-the-hood fuse box is where the connection issue is. And this may be why it isn't charging the battery up anymore while running (didn't drop voltage, but didn't go up anymore either). I had the same exact indications (2.5vdc at the jump posts and 12.6 at the battery terminals). When I pulled up the fuze box, there is a wire under there that seems to be the issue. The connection was tight, but the wire itself seems wiggly. I'm still researching, but that is where I think my problem is. Afraid to touch it too much so as to not void any warranty.
 

kenswebdesign

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I bought a jump box and was able to bring my truck back to life as well. But as soon as I turned it off after about 10 minutes of hybrid driving (engine running the whole time), it died again. I'm suspecting whatever connects the 12vdc battery to the under-the-hood fuse box is where the connection issue is. And this may be why it isn't charging the battery up anymore while running (didn't drop voltage, but didn't go up anymore either). I had the same exact indications (2.5vdc at the jump posts and 12.6 at the battery terminals). When I pulled up the fuze box, there is a wire under there that seems to be the issue. The connection was tight, but the wire itself seems wiggly. I'm still researching, but that is where I think my problem is. Afraid to touch it too much so as to not void any warranty.
I was actually wondering about that, but with a small jump box, you could probably find somewhere under the hood that it would be able to stay put and leave it connected the whole time as a way to get home or to a dealer... since that would BE the 12V battery, and since it does not have any starter load on it, it would probably last a good while....

My truck is being worked on at the dealer now, but my service advisor is on his day off (!), so no one can give me any details yet.

UPDATE: Towed it to dealer monday and got it back Wednesday. It was the harness problem and all they did was replace the connection lug with a new one that was crimped on. Everything is back to normal, and if something had to fail, I am glad it was just a wire connector.... and it was kind enough to fail in my driveway.

They also did the recall something about the air inlet vanes while it was there.

I did buy a small jump box to keep under the back seat just in case. I asked them if they only replaced that one lug and they said that all of the ones they have seen fail have all been that same lug, so they only changed out the one..
 
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Milous

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Has anyone tried this? My truck died and I pulled that little access port open and reached in there and looked with a flashlight, and the only thing I saw was a wire harness... no "Tether" to pull and no white button to push to return it back to normal.
Same here, I wonder if it is for the 8-spd trans only... and not the hybrid CVT ??
 

kenswebdesign

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Same here, I wonder if it is for the 8-spd trans only... and not the hybrid CVT ??
It must be just for the ecoboost engine... the service advisor at the dealer even tried looking it up and then he looked at the truck and agreed there is nothing in there... which means there is no way to put the truck in Neutral if the power is dead (except that putting a jump box on the truck brought it all back to life - and then i backed out of the driveway so the tow truck could lift up the front wheels to tow it in).
 

Tundra2Maverick(?)

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It must be just for the ecoboost engine... the service advisor at the dealer even tried looking it up and then he looked at the truck and agreed there is nothing in there... which means there is no way to put the truck in Neutral if the power is dead (except that putting a jump box on the truck brought it all back to life - and then i backed out of the driveway so the tow truck could lift up the front wheels to tow it in).
How many of us have had to push a dead car out of an intersection sometime during our life? Put me down for over a dozen times during my 50 years of driving. I have already experienced the "Dead Hybrid", but fortunately was parked when it happened: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ges-fixed-by-software-update.9415/post-322814

It sounds like I may just be stuck in the road if it happens while driving. I am looking forward to hearing about Dead Hybrid operations. I have never had a car that I could not put into neutral!
 
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Ford Maverick Tracking DEAD HYBRID Mavericks Reported Dealer Solutions / Fixes ... WiringPlug

You can add me to the Dead Hybrid list. Yesterday when I turned the key off, all power was gone. No Trip Summary, no interior lights, no power locks, and it wouldn't start. I was trying stuff like disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. I looked at the fuses there on the right of this picture. The battery under the seat was reading 12v but when I check the voltage on the jump start port under the red cover next to the fuses, it read around 2v. I found that when I messed with the plug that I circled in this picture then it sometimes would come back to life. It went dead 3 times yesterday and I think it has to do with where the wires go into the plug on the back side. There are pieces of white plastic there by the wires and pushing on the white plastic seemed to help.

Needless to say it's at the dealership right now. It's frustrating the Service dept is super busy and they might look at it in about a week and at that point the waiting for parts phase would start.
 

Tundra2Maverick(?)

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WiringPlug.JPG

You can add me to the Dead Hybrid list. Yesterday when I turned the key off, all power was gone. No Trip Summary, no interior lights, no power locks, and it wouldn't start. I was trying stuff like disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. I looked at the fuses there on the right of this picture. The battery under the seat was reading 12v but when I check the voltage on the jump start port under the red cover next to the fuses, it read around 2v. I found that when I messed with the plug that I circled in this picture then it sometimes would come back to life. It went dead 3 times yesterday and I think it has to do with where the wires go into the plug on the back side. There are pieces of white plastic there by the wires and pushing on the white plastic seemed to help.

Needless to say it's at the dealership right now. It's frustrating the Service dept is super busy and they might look at it in about a week and at that point the waiting for parts phase would start.
Sorry to hear that it hit you, too. If the hybrid connections are faulty, as described through this forum, it is just a matter of time for all of the hybrids. My replacement harness was on backorder, of course, and took 30 days to come in. Good luck.
 

KeinoDoggy

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Sorry to hear that it hit you, too. If the hybrid connections are faulty, as described through this forum, it is just a matter of time for all of the hybrids. My replacement harness was on backorder, of course, and took 30 days to come in. Good luck.
Unfortunately you have to wonder if the replacement harnesses are any better.
 

MichaelG

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Unfortunately you have to wonder if the replacement harnesses are any better.
The supplier of the battery cable is well aware of the issue and is most definitely making sure the cables are up to spec. Their build process and quality control have been reviewed and necessary changes have been implemented. Aluminum wire is tough to work with in regards to bonding to terminals.
 

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WiringPlug.JPG

You can add me to the Dead Hybrid list. Yesterday when I turned the key off, all power was gone. No Trip Summary, no interior lights, no power locks, and it wouldn't start. I was trying stuff like disconnecting/reconnecting the battery. I looked at the fuses there on the right of this picture. The battery under the seat was reading 12v but when I check the voltage on the jump start port under the red cover next to the fuses, it read around 2v. I found that when I messed with the plug that I circled in this picture then it sometimes would come back to life. It went dead 3 times yesterday and I think it has to do with where the wires go into the plug on the back side. There are pieces of white plastic there by the wires and pushing on the white plastic seemed to help.

Needless to say it's at the dealership right now. It's frustrating the Service dept is super busy and they might look at it in about a week and at that point the waiting for parts phase would start.
Interesting, so far all the hybrid battery issues I've seen have been with the connection I circled in purple, mine included.

I've had no issues since putting a clamp there as described in the Hybrid Battery Clamp thread.

Ford Maverick Tracking DEAD HYBRID Mavericks Reported Dealer Solutions / Fixes ... WiringPlug~2.JPG
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