Dead Hybrid again, AFTER wire harness replacement!

[djb_rh]

watch this video... it might be an issue

I watched that video and as I watched I said to myself “no, he hasn’t found the problem…the problem is the crimp on the supply going to that box.” I knew immediately the reason he got voltage with it unhooked and then the voltage dropped when connected was that connection. Turns out it isn’t even a crimp, it’s an attempted solder that doesn’t hold. So it was moving it and putting it under some tension when bolted down caused that drop at the bad solder joint. So I went to his comments and found someone else who said that, then his response to check his next video:



Which shows I was right and he found that later.

Okay, great. But on top of that, I have a theory…in another thread I commented on how there seemed to be a LOT of unexplainable (as yet) gremlins with what seemed like general computer communication issues and whatnot. I’ll bet dollars to donuts it’s this same bad solder joint. It’s just that it’s not completely failed, but is introducing a LOT of power noise that’s jerking with the various computer modules.

I have 20K on my truck and no problems yet, but I’m still seriously considering pulling everything apart to that connection and “fixing” it before it breaks.

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[BlueSpec1]

Also, I love the voltage meter he used..

At first glance I thought of a Power Probe IV
I see it's the Ancel PB100

 

[Dad]

At first glance I thought of a Power Probe IV
I see it's the Ancel PB100

Thank you! A bit expensive for the amount of usage I would need, but certainly a must have for any one who is serious about auto diagnosis and repair. Good detective work!

 

[Dad]

I watched that video and as I watched I said to myself “no, he hasn’t found the problem…the problem is the crimp on the supply going to that box.” I knew immediately the reason he got voltage with it unhooked and then the voltage dropped when connected was that connection. Turns out it isn’t even a crimp, it’s an attempted solder that doesn’t hold. So it was moving it and putting it under some tension when bolted down caused that drop at the bad solder joint. So I went to his comments and found someone else who said that, then his response to check his next video:



Which shows I was right and he found that later.

Okay, great. But on top of that, I have a theory…in another thread I commented on how there seemed to be a LOT of unexplainable (as yet) gremlins with what seemed like general computer communication issues and whatnot. I’ll bet dollars to donuts it’s this same bad solder joint. It’s just that it’s not completely failed, but is introducing a LOT of power noise that’s jerking with the various computer modules.

I have 20K on my truck and no problems yet, but I’m still seriously considering pulling everything apart to that connection and “fixing” it before it breaks.

Excellent post! I would tend to agree with your analysis of the problem since there has been a history of the that connector failure. Many thanks for sharing your thoughts.

 

[garn0]

Two months after my hybrid received a new wire harness due to the well documented TSB, it died again after sitting for 2 weeks in an airport parking garage.

This time it wouldn't even jump start (and I became quite familiar with jump starting it previously). Tried two different jump packs and the old fashioned way with another running car. Accessory power came on when the jumpers were connected but unlike before, the Maverick wouldn't crank. Dashboard warnings included "Charging System Service Now" and "Stop Safely Now."

Other notes:
1. Maverick is a Lariat hybrid with push button start.
2. 12V battery voltage was below 7.0 both at the battery and under the hood! Similar voltage at both locations.
3. As with much of the US, it was cold but not what I would consider a unique use case. It dipped to 18 deg F two nights during this time and was over 40 deg F when I tried to start it.
4. No "Deep Sleep" warnings from the FordPass app prior to not starting.
5. GPS location was wonky for the first time ever. A couple days into the trip I checked the FordPass app and the vehicle location was a couple blocks from my house, not where I had left it. At the time, I attributed it to a poor signal due to being in a parking garage, but it has correctly reported its location in other garages.
6. Vehicle has sat unused for 3+ weeks before with no issues, but at my house in the summer within WiFi range.

My best guess is the HVB SOC dropped below the minimum needed to crank the ICE, or the HVB wiring degraded to create a similar condition. Either that or the vehicle somehow recognized the 12V battery was so hosed it wouldn't allow it to start even while jumping.

Thoughts? Anyone else experience anything similar?

Come to Ford, they will tell you it works as expected.
Or asked you if you recently changed your tire size ?

 

[Klege]

I have the same problem and figured I contact my dealership where I had nothing but a good experience since buying my first Mustang in 2004. Well, their service manager was unwilling to work with me on a solution. He told me to drop the car off and wait 3 to 10 days for a verdict. Ja, no. I ended up fixing it myself. I found below linked ring terminals on Amazon and put one of those on the cable. Shrink wrapped it and within 40 minutes everything was better than new. The ring terminal I used, has a set screw to secure the cable. All I needed to do was squeeze the cable into shape, shove it in, and screw it tight. A 3/4-inch shrink wrap from Harbor freight worked just fine. If I can fix it, you can fix it. Here is a link to the ring terminals I used.

Ring Terminals from Amazonhttps://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00AW17SNO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[OleFordGuy]

The Ford Boss Me guy (certified dealer mechanic) on youtube has a couple of good videos I ran across related to this issue, in addition to the cable soldering issue he also talked about corrosion in the main fuse box. They hybrid folks having or concerned about having it might want to watch them if interested: Edit, heck just noted at least one of them already posted. sorry....

 

[Bigbill27]

Two months after my hybrid received a new wire harness due to the well documented TSB, it died again after sitting for 2 weeks in an airport parking garage.

This time it wouldn't even jump start (and I became quite familiar with jump starting it previously). Tried two different jump packs and the old fashioned way with another running car. Accessory power came on when the jumpers were connected but unlike before, the Maverick wouldn't crank. Dashboard warnings included "Charging System Service Now" and "Stop Safely Now."

Other notes:
1. Maverick is a Lariat hybrid with push button start.
2. 12V battery voltage was below 7.0 both at the battery and under the hood! Similar voltage at both locations.
3. As with much of the US, it was cold but not what I would consider a unique use case. It dipped to 18 deg F two nights during this time and was over 40 deg F when I tried to start it.
4. No "Deep Sleep" warnings from the FordPass app prior to not starting.
5. GPS location was wonky for the first time ever. A couple days into the trip I checked the FordPass app and the vehicle location was a couple blocks from my house, not where I had left it. At the time, I attributed it to a poor signal due to being in a parking garage, but it has correctly reported its location in other garages.
6. Vehicle has sat unused for 3+ weeks before with no issues, but at my house in the summer within WiFi range.

My best guess is the HVB SOC dropped below the minimum needed to crank the ICE, or the HVB wiring degraded to create a similar condition. Either that or the vehicle somehow recognized the 12V battery was so hosed it wouldn't allow it to start even while jumping.

Thoughts? Anyone else experience anything similar?

I am experiencing a very similar issue. The battery had a dead cell so it was replaced, but it continued to drain the battery.

 

[Mikecando]

Two months after my hybrid received a new wire harness due to the well documented TSB, it died again after sitting for 2 weeks in an airport parking garage.

This time it wouldn't even jump start (and I became quite familiar with jump starting it previously). Tried two different jump packs and the old fashioned way with another running car. Accessory power came on when the jumpers were connected but unlike before, the Maverick wouldn't crank. Dashboard warnings included "Charging System Service Now" and "Stop Safely Now."

Other notes:
1. Maverick is a Lariat hybrid with push button start.
2. 12V battery voltage was below 7.0 both at the battery and under the hood! Similar voltage at both locations.
3. As with much of the US, it was cold but not what I would consider a unique use case. It dipped to 18 deg F two nights during this time and was over 40 deg F when I tried to start it.
4. No "Deep Sleep" warnings from the FordPass app prior to not starting.
5. GPS location was wonky for the first time ever. A couple days into the trip I checked the FordPass app and the vehicle location was a couple blocks from my house, not where I had left it. At the time, I attributed it to a poor signal due to being in a parking garage, but it has correctly reported its location in other garages.
6. Vehicle has sat unused for 3+ weeks before with no issues, but at my house in the summer within WiFi range.

My best guess is the HVB SOC dropped below the minimum needed to crank the ICE, or the HVB wiring degraded to create a similar condition. Either that or the vehicle somehow recognized the 12V battery was so hosed it wouldn't allow it to start even while jumping.

Thoughts? Anyone else experience anything similar?

I also had the wire harness replaced but the battery was shot after numerous jumps and dead draw downs. Ford replaced battery as well when getting the new harness. Still getting deep sleep modes. will test this week in colder weather

 

[Dad]

I also had the wire harness replaced but the battery was shot after numerous jumps and dead draw downs. Ford replaced battery as well when getting the new harness. Still getting deep sleep modes. will test this week in colder weather

The spiel I got from the dealer was since there are so many electronic features to the Maverick, the system is just protecting itself. Ok, that makes sense, but there are many other multi-featured vehicles that don't have the problem. This is simply "dealer-speak" for "we don't have a clue". I'm thinking the battery management system is haywire.

 

[skyhawk]

OP never came back to tell us what happened or what the fix was. Maybe he is still stuck at the airport

 

[mhw21zap]

I’m on my second 12V battery after the first was said to be a bad battery. About the same amount of time has passed that the first one started to give me issues and I’m getting the deep sleep message/ vehicle needs a jump. I’m starting to thing there is also something within the system that’s draining/ killing the 12V battery. Has anyone else have that issue?

Yes, my truck is one month old and currently at the dealership looking into it. Multiple deep sleeps and 2 times coming out in the morning to a dead truck. Thankfully my Noco worked both times, but, yes, something is draining the battery rapidly on mine.

 

[mhw21zap]

I also had the wire harness replaced but the battery was shot after numerous jumps and dead draw downs. Ford replaced battery as well when getting the new harness. Still getting deep sleep modes. will test this week in colder weather

So you have had both a new battery AND the wiring harness addressed - and you're still having the issue? Gosh, yeah, I'm only at 5 weeks of ownership on my 2023 (after a 17 month wait) and I'm having deep sleep notifications, 2 dead batteries, and resting voltage measurements of 11.49 only 4 days after getting a new 12V installed. I'm worried and bummed the f* out

 

[Mikecando]

So you have had both a new battery AND the wiring harness addressed - and you're still having the issue? Gosh, yeah, I'm only at 5 weeks of ownership on my 2023 (after a 17 month wait) and I'm having deep sleep notifications, 2 dead batteries, and resting voltage measurements of 11.49 only 4 days after getting a new 12V installed. I'm worried and bummed the f* out

Dealer found multiple low voltage codes. DCDC module not communicating with scan tool. connector C1457B was disconnected. reconnected and was able to clear all codes. truck now no problems at present.

 

[mhw21zap]

Dealer found multiple low voltage codes. DCDC module not communicating with scan tool. connector C1457B was disconnected. reconnected and was able to clear all codes. truck now no problems at present.

Really? Okay this is good information. I am dropping my truck off tomorrow afternoon. I just spoke with the service guy who (thankfully) has been very helpful thus far. I want to be able to explain / tell him as much as I can from my experience and from others.

Is there anything else you wouldn't mind sharing that perhaps might help me explain to him your situation - time frame between problems / solution? Any info at all might help as I would love to streamline this or hopefully give them some starting points.

You've had the 12V replaced, and then the wiring harness, and from there.... they did the DCDC module and fixed the connector C1457B, yeah?

Really appreciate it - cheers

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