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It's a modern vehicle; the ignition switch isn't directly connected to the starter solenoid. Turning the key to 'Start' sends a digital communication to the BCM that the key state changed. The BCM knows the status of the engine and, if it wasn't already started, sends a request to start to the...

As a followup, I'll say one thing I'm not real fond of with the Dasaita so far is the backlight for low light doesn't go anywhere near dim enough. I double checked that it does work when the headlights are on, but the difference between Night Brightness at its minimum and regular brightness...

Those were Lasfit LEDs. And long since have switched to the Diode Dynamics kit. But for reference, these are the 'BlingLights' for a whole $100 Yep, sure looks a lot like a set of Pilot lights, yours for $26 from Wally World

Looks like a cheap pair of Pilot H3 glass driving lights you'd buy for $30 at Autozone marked up for 3x the price.

The Dasaita unit isn't directly compatible with a Lariat with the B&O system, but if you don't mind running an aftermarket amp for the front/subwoofer it is doable. It does require some re-pinning of the connector as the rear speakers and center speaker are swapped, and you need to pull some to...

None of this is the case for Mavericks.

For Ecoboosts, if the push-to-pop mechanism doesn't release you're just supposed to pry it open and the tail of the catch pin should slide out of the door.

Charging speed is typically most limited by the battery's safe limits of doing so. Replacing the whole battery pack would hardly be economical.

There's the CarABC and Dasaita options, but they're reported a bit quirky what with being essentially a sort of tablet running it's own OS bootstrapped to interfacing with the stock Sync system. https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/anyone-try-aftermarket-displays-head-units.82491/

It was less about demonstrating the capability than leveraging that it gave them extra CARB emissions credits as "fast refueling Zero Emissions Vehicle" capable. The regulations were later changed so that they only got the credit if they actually did have the battery swaps on record and then...

You never received any info on this because it's a CSP, not a recall. A CSP is just a manufacturer extended repair coverage related to a specific component/fault if it occurs and doesn't have the compulsory notification requirements of a federal safety recall.

I stand by my opinion that the rust issue of drop-ins is overblown especially anywhere that salt exposure is a factor. The bed is going to rust out faster from the underside faster than from some boogeyman trapped moisture.

Unless it's a drive-over pit quick lube place, a service manager who doesn't have the oil jockeys doing a basic grab and shake test of the front end or visually assessing brakes, leaking shocks, etc. is doing a bad job at generating any follow-up business. There's a reason that oil changes, etc...

The big rub there is that 30% hit in the eyes of any insurance company, regardless of what you actually pay for the vehicle. It means the value is going to be that much lower in determining if it gets declared totaled and the payout in the case that it does.

I wonder if their "alignment" is just they have one of those vehicle scanner systems on intake that measures some alignment parameters, tire tread, and records the vehicle exterior for damage.

Other way around. The 1st gen models were ABS which is less UV-fast compared to other polymers like ASA:

Personally I don't like the mostly straight siping on the Outpost APT versus a zig-zag sipe for more bite into ice if one wanted to use it as an "all-weather AT". Consequently when the Rotiivas on our work plow truck needed replacing (another downside of the Nokians is they get considerable dry...

It was a bit of a light winter here this year so can't speak to them in particularly heavy snow, but I switched to a set of GT Radial MaxClimate all-weather tires in January and they've done good so far. Fairly inexpensive and made in the US.

I think people are forgetting that OP's '26 XLT has push-button start with a radio key rather than a simple RFID passive anti-theft.

The DC-DC converter doesn't work as an intermediary between the drive motor and HVB at all like you describe. It's simply an accessory to the HV system that steps down to "12v" (13.6-15.2v).