Longevity, or First thing TO-DO when received new Maverick!

[KevCuRaoi]

I received my 2.5 Hybrid. I plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. first thing I have done to prolong longevity of my Mav:

1. I changed my first oil at 200 miles - glad I did. it was full of metal sparking particles. Main reason why i change is that I don't like the fact that ford is putting small oil filter and semi-synthetic oil blend vs. full synthetic oil and full size filter. After initial oil change sequential oil change will be done every 5-6k miles or 100 hours of engine operation. (oil used: Pennzoil Platinum 0-w20 with one 3/4 quarter of 5-w30 Engine works more smoother and much quitter) Cost $35. time 30 min.
2. Oil Undercoating, I drive upstate NY and PA. there are tons of salt on the road in winter that will contribute to metal corrosion in just a few years. i chose to do B'LASTER SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant and 3M Cavity Wax Plus Aerosol Spray, 08852 with 3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit. 3M worked very well in enclosed tube and frames where Surface Shield is good for underbody undercoating like crossmember and rocker panels. I didn't use fluid film brand in my case that is also very good option. Cost: 3M with Wang kit $60 and six cans of BlLASTER SURFACE SHIELD $60 (used four out of six) total $120. time 2 hours
3. Sprayed with anticorrosion oil all ground terminals to prevent premature oxidation and corrosion. Bad ground may cause unwanted error codes. cost $2. time 10 min.
4. Oil Catch Can. Since this is hybrid engine that starts and stops often, I added Oil Catch can to prevent carbon buildup on engine valves. cost $35, time 1 hour.
5. I will change all liquids in summer when i reach 15-20k. coolant, brake fluid, differential and transmission oil. After initial change i will be changing liquid again after 80k or 3 years. cost assumption $ 150 time assumption 3 hours.

I am not mentioning mod that i have added: cruise control, lighting etc. this thread about longevity. Please add items you think that may add longevity to ford Maverick. Thank you in advance!

You are right that semi-synthetic blend is put in most Ford vehicles by the factory, but not in the hybrids. These have full-synthetic from the factory. XO-0W20-QFS

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[Phileaux]

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Right, a catch can on the hybrid is completely unnecessary. A can of BG Products Platinum 44K for hybrids or BG CF5 every 10,000 miles in the fuel does a great job of keeping things clean and tidy. I run a tank full using the CF5 before every oil change.
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BG products are used with Jaguar and other high end vehicle maintenance. I use the 44k once a year or before road trips and engine flush every 30k oil change.
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[Shay]

I thought that the 2.5L was Sequential Mass Fuel Injection (port injection)?

Correct. "Carbon build up" isn't really a concern at all.

 

[Phileaux]

I do use non ethanol fuels in all my small engines such as weed eater, leaf blower, etc. Which are not designed for ethanol fuels.

I do not use ethanol free in any of my vehicles. The cost differential is way too much. You will get about 3% better MPG using ethanol free, but it's always priced much more than 3% above E10.

Modern vehicles are made with fuel hoses, o rings, and gaskets that withstand the ethanol in fuels now.

If you remove cost from the equation then yes I would always use ethanol free fuel for the minor efficiency improvements, not engine longevity.

Ethanol/alcohol is a solvent which breaks down oil. On decent of piston a thin layer of oil is left to lubricate accent motion. Ethanol free will help stop the piston from being "cleaned off".
That being said, Ethanol was the first fuel used in the development of the four cycle engine in 1876.

 

[SuperDave71]

Mavmav,
Where did you install your catch can, and which did you use? Do you have a picture showing your installation?

 

[mavmav]

Mavmav,
Where did you install your catch can, and which did you use? Do you have a picture showing your installation?

i used cheap oil catch can https://www.amazon.com/muge-racing-Universal-Reservoir-Breather/dp/B08LN4GHLP/ here is the link . I will take pictures next weekend (my mav is upstate NY)

 

[OpieGoneBad]

I received my 2.5 Hybrid. I plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. first thing I have done to prolong longevity of my Mav:

1. Oil Undercoating, I drive upstate NY and PA. there are tons of salt on the road in winter that will contribute to metal corrosion in just a few years. i chose to do B'LASTER SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant and 3M Cavity Wax Plus Aerosol Spray, 08852 with 3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit. 3M worked very well in enclosed tube and frames where Surface Shield is good for underbody undercoating like crossmember and rocker panels. I didn't use fluid film brand in my case that is also very good option. Cost: 3M with Wang kit $60 and six cans of BlLASTER SURFACE SHIELD $60 (used four out of six) total $120. time 2 hour

I live in western PA and have the same salt issue. After owning a 2005 Tundra (AKA - Rust magnet) that I bought new and seeing how bad the rust was on it, I learned my lesson. I spent some very quality time under my Maverick with 6 cans of fluid-film. Got it in every nook and cranny I could find with the exception of the battery pack. (not sure how the film would affect the heat dissipation) Got it inside every rail I could get into and inside every body panel I could get in. Even took hinge bolts out to get my 2' long spray hose into the pillars.

It still might rust but I'm doing everything in my power to minimize it. Not going through the Tundra rust experience again.

 

[Sembazuru]

You car has a CVT. I have never owned; nor will I ever own, a CVT equipped vehicle. This is a personal preference. That said, I have two mechanics that I trust who swear by 30k CVT fluid refreshes. I don't know that Ford's official guidance is, but most manufactures are on the 'lifetime fill.' This may just be a way to sell more cars, or at least CVTs.

Note that the transmission in the Maverick Hybrid is an eCVT, not a CVT. I'm not a gear-head, but my research seems to indicate that an eCVT is a completely different beast than a CVT. I don't know if eCVT is "better" or "worse" than a CVT (depending on one's definition of better and worse). I don't know if eCVT is more or less reliable than a CVT. But my suspicion is the care and feeding for an eCVT isn't necessarily the same as for a CVT, simply because they are completely different beasts with different theories of operation. (eCVT planetary gears vs. CVT belts and/or chains.)

Also, please don't think that I'm saying your personal preference is wrong. I simply don't know enough to be able to form a preference nor judge others preferences.

 

[mavmav]

According the Ford Maverick the first fluid change for the eCVT is 150k miles, unless under “special operating conditions” (see page 442 of owners manual) than it is 30k intervals. Ford recommends change eCVT transmission oil from 30k to 150k. Quiet a big difference! It is like saying change your engine oil anywhere from 3k to 15k. Five times the difference depending on operating conditions !? I think transmission break-in process is “special operating conditions” and first eCVT oil change should be done in 30k then in about 100k. I plan to change my eCVT oil in 30k vs. 150k. It is a cheap insurance! one hour of work and about $80 for an oil

 

[mavmav]

I have the package in the shop. Next time I'm down there I'll get the plug dimensions, but they will be for a EB. Your plug may be different.

thank you!

 

[whitef]

According the Ford Maverick the first fluid change for the eCVT is 150k miles, unless under “special operating conditions” (see page 442 of owners manual) than it is 30k intervals. Ford recommends change eCVT transmission oil from 30k to 150k. Quiet a big difference! It is like saying change your engine oil anywhere from 3k to 15k. Five times the difference depending on operating conditions !? I think transmission break-in process is “special operating conditions” and first eCVT oil change should be done in 30k then in about 100k. I plan to change my eCVT oil in 30k vs. 150k. It is a cheap insurance! one hour of work and about $80 for an oil

I was visiting with one of our regular mechanics on another project today and asked about eCVT maintenance recommendations. His advice was the same and followed your reasoning. Basically, in theory an eCVT should be easier on fluid. That said, fluid is cheap and eCVTs are expensive, so why not just keep clean fluid in it?

Seems reasonable to me.

 

[matmondro]

Great stuff! Like you, I also will be keeping my Maverick for many years. I got under it and sprayed Fluid Film on the important bits. First oil change at 1,000 miles. Otherwise, I plan to follow the maintenance schedule and regularly detail it. I'm super meticulous about my cars so it always gets a ton of attention from me.

 

[apstephen]

At one of your early tire rotations change out your two piece lug nuts for one piece nuts.

 

[ejouie]

I respectfully disagree regarding NOT to install oil catch can. Oil Catch can is a cheap insurance . an hour of work and $30. in my maverick hybrid in about 400 miles i collected about 10 ml (milliliters ) of sludge (yellow water with oil). otherwise, it would go to the piston via airflow sensor and then to engine cylinder to recycle / reburn. This recycling method is mandated by EPA and automakers had to came up with some decision to get rid of backpressure from the engine by recycling "bad exhaust" Before this EPA mandate engine pressure was vented outside to atmosphere. Therefore, based what i saw on my mav. hybrid i think it is a good option to put oil catch can for longevity of the engine and to prevent carb buildup and premature airflow sensor failure, especially on hybrid engines.
Hybrid engine when it is cold and you are in traffic condition is starting and stopping often. it may run on electrical drive for 1-10 min at the time. I think, (my opinion) stop/go is contributes to extra condensation in engine oil because of rapid temperature change. The water eventually had to escape somehow. there is only one way for a water escape through the breather tube. Therefore, breather tube has to go through the catch can or to atmosphere (removing all environmental factors from above argument and concentrating on engine longevity, i am not advocating breather tube to atmosphere method! )

Looking at what the Prius forums had to say about the catch can, I can see its usefulness. Not for carbon buildup, but for removing oil from where it's not supposed to be.

They go so far as to claim significant engine knock from oil in the combustion area of the cylinders.

Side note: Interesting that I can use a Prius forum as applicable advice for a Ford truck.

 

[mavmav]

but for removing oil from where it's not supposed to be.

Why do you thing engine has to breath with water/oil vapor? you always will have condensate in oil and engine when it warms-up. engine will evaporate water in 10-20 minutes after engine reaches optimal temperature.
in my humble opinion, I think it is premature for me to conclude if catch can is useless in maverick hybrid by the time i see at least 2-3k results. engine is new and very tight and i will not see results right away. 20-30 drops of oil sludge is not a big deal. i have oil catch can in f150 2010 - 132k and i have to empty it every 3-5 k but engine works like a clock. I wish the same for my new maverick. my action is based on my experience. I will definitely update this post after i get 2-3k on maverick with catch can.

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