Longevity, or First thing TO-DO when received new Maverick!

[mavmav]

I received my 2.5 Hybrid. I plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. first thing I have done to prolong longevity of my Mav:

1. I changed my first oil at 200 miles - glad I did. it was full of metal sparking particles. Main reason why i change is that I don't like the fact that ford is putting small oil filter and semi-synthetic oil blend vs. full synthetic oil and full size filter. After initial oil change sequential oil change will be done every 5-6k miles or 100 hours of engine operation. (oil used: Pennzoil Platinum 0-w20 with one 3/4 quarter of 5-w30 Engine works more smoother and much quitter) Cost $35. time 30 min.
2. Oil Undercoating, I drive upstate NY and PA. there are tons of salt on the road in winter that will contribute to metal corrosion in just a few years. i chose to do B'LASTER SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant and 3M Cavity Wax Plus Aerosol Spray, 08852 with 3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit. 3M worked very well in enclosed tube and frames where Surface Shield is good for underbody undercoating like crossmember and rocker panels. I didn't use fluid film brand in my case that is also very good option. Cost: 3M with Wang kit $60 and six cans of BlLASTER SURFACE SHIELD $60 (used four out of six) total $120. time 2 hours
3. Sprayed with anticorrosion oil all ground terminals to prevent premature oxidation and corrosion. Bad ground may cause unwanted error codes. cost $2. time 10 min.
4. Oil Catch Can. Since this is hybrid engine that starts and stops often, I added Oil Catch can to prevent carbon buildup on engine valves. cost $35, time 1 hour.
5. I will change all liquids in summer when i reach 15-20k. coolant, brake fluid, differential and transmission oil. After initial change i will be changing liquid again after 80k or 3 years. cost assumption $ 150 time assumption 3 hours.

I am not mentioning mod that i have added: cruise control, lighting etc. this thread about longevity. Please add items you think that may add longevity to ford Maverick. Thank you in advance!

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[TomMav]

Thank you for this information. I plan on doing the rust prevention also.
I have 179,000 miles on my 2014 Ford Fusion ECO Boost 1.5l I4 GTDI that is being traded in.
I have used E-15 for the last 7 years. I have not noticed any carbon build up on the intake manifold.
I am not yet convinced that a oil catch can will do anything to prevent the carbon build up.
My average fuel economy is 31.5 mph highway actual calculated using E-15 88 octane.
My average fuel economy is 27.5 mph in town actual calculated using E-15 88 Octane.
The new Maverick is sitting in the Union Pacific rail yard in St. Paul, MN for 2 weeks awaiting a transport ride for the last 50 miles of the year long wait.

 

[mavmav]

I was under impression that E-15 does more carbon build-up to valves then E-10. Ethanol and oil is the main the cause of carbon build-up. My gas station sells ethanol free gasoline that I always trying to put in my tank. it is about 30 cents more.

 

[commadorebob]

I was under impression that E-15 does more carbon build-up to valves then E-10. Ethanol and oil is the main the cause of carbon build-up. My gas station sells ethanol free gasoline that I always trying to put in my tank. it is about 30 cents more.

Ethanol does contribute to carbon build-up, but cars nowadays are engineered with that in mind. Most of the vehicles that require ethanol-free fuel are those that were built before ethanol became a thing.

I do like the idea of an early oil change. I didn't do that with the Escape but I don't think I have had any negative outcomes. The rest of your list doesn't really apply in the deep South or with the EB but sounds like a smart play.

I would love to see other ideas people have.

 

[JBL14]

My coworker added a catch can to his new F150 V8, but has to remove it every time he takes it to the dealer. He gets a few free dealer oil changes, etc...
He says if they see the catch can, it voids warranties.
In another thread they bring up how the catch can is not needed in a hybrid.
I am not well educated on catch cans myself.

 

[Mavman321]

I received my 2.5 Hybrid. I plan to keep my Maverick for 10+ years. first thing I have done to prolong longevity of my Mav:

1. I changed my first oil at 200 miles - glad I did. it was full of metal sparking particles. Main reason why i change is that I don't like the fact that ford is putting small oil filter and semi-synthetic oil blend vs. full synthetic oil and full size filter. After initial oil change sequential oil change will be done every 5-6k miles or 100 hours of engine operation. (oil used: Pennzoil Platinum 0-w20 with one 3/4 quarter of 5-w30 Engine works more smoother and much quitter) Cost $35. time 30 min.
2. Oil Undercoating, I drive upstate NY and PA. there are tons of salt on the road in winter that will contribute to metal corrosion in just a few years. i chose to do B'LASTER SURFACE SHIELD Rust Protectant and 3M Cavity Wax Plus Aerosol Spray, 08852 with 3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit. 3M worked very well in enclosed tube and frames where Surface Shield is good for underbody undercoating like crossmember and rocker panels. I didn't use fluid film brand in my case that is also very good option. Cost: 3M with Wang kit $60 and six cans of BlLASTER SURFACE SHIELD $60 (used four out of six) total $120. time 2 hours
3. Sprayed with anticorrosion oil all ground terminals to prevent premature oxidation and corrosion. Bad ground may cause unwanted error codes. cost $2. time 10 min.
4. Oil Catch Can. Since this is hybrid engine that starts and stops often, I added Oil Catch can to prevent carbon buildup on engine valves. cost $35, time 1 hour.
5. I will change all liquids in summer when i reach 15-20k. coolant, brake fluid, differential and transmission oil. After initial change i will be changing liquid again after 80k or 3 years. cost assumption $ 150 time assumption 3 hours.

I am not mentioning mod that i have added: cruise control, lighting etc. this thread about longevity. Please add items you think that may add longevity to ford Maverick. Thank you in advance!

Here are my thoughts:
1. Agree on changing the factory oil early. I did mine something like 500 miles. Conventional is inferior to full synthetic. With that being said I think you are being a little too conservative with your future intervals. Modern synthetic oil is pretty amazing stuff and can last much more than 100 hours of engine operation. Just my opinion, your plan certainly won't hurt anything but will cost a few extra bucks and time.
2. Grew up in the northeast, the road salt does it's damage on bare steel. Good idea.
3. Sure why not. I don't do it.
4. IMO waste of money. Modern fuel in modern engines rarely have any excessive carbon buildup.
5. My opinion again, I would wait to do these until the manufacturer recommended timeframe/mileage. Idk how the coolant drains in the Maverick yet, but the drain the coolant of a previous car I had, the drain was to unhook a lower coolant hose. At all costs I would avoid unhooking any hoses you don't need to. The plastic connections break way too easily.

 

[CSmith]

I used up three cans of CRC Marine corrosion preventive under my FX4 (hope that's enough). I don't see a lot of salt in Southern Indiana but still decided to do that.

I let Ford Quicklane change my oil right after break-in at 600 miles. I am fine with the synthetic blend as long as I keep it changed regularly.

I also used Turtle Wax Hydro Solutions cermic wash and ceramic spray coating on the exterior.

I am not adding a catch can. My 2013 GDI Ecoboost F-150 went 125k miles with no issues. I figure the Maverick will do the same. By that time I may not need a vehicle or be able to drive!

 

[mavmav]

My coworker added a catch can to his new F150 V8, but has to remove it every time he takes it to the dealer. He gets a few free dealer oil changes, etc...
He says if they see the catch can, it voids warranties.
In another thread they bring up how the catch can is not needed in a hybrid.
I am not well educated on catch cans myself.

Also, is the factory oil a special break-in type?? May want to leave in a touch longer.

yes. bringing to dealership with oil catch can void warranty. I noticed about 10ml of water and oil after 400 miles of city/highway driving. i think oil catch works so far for my situation in hybrid.

 

[mavmav]

Here are my thoughts:
1. Agree on changing the factory oil early. I did mine something like 500 miles. Conventional is inferior to full synthetic. With that being said I think you are being a little too conservative with your future intervals. Modern synthetic oil is pretty amazing stuff and can last much more than 100 hours of engine operation. Just my opinion, your plan certainly won't hurt anything but will cost a few extra bucks and time.
2. Grew up in the northeast, the road salt does it's damage on bare steel. Good idea.
3. Sure why not. I don't do it.
4. IMO waste of money. Modern fuel in modern engines rarely have any excessive carbon buildup.
5. My opinion again, I would wait to do these until the manufacturer recommended timeframe/mileage. Idk how the coolant drains in the Maverick yet, but the drain the coolant of a previous car I had, the drain was to unhook a lower coolant hose. At all costs I would avoid unhooking any hoses you don't need to. The plastic connections break way too easily.

Valid argument. do you think it worth to use ethanol free gasoline vs ethanol e10 or e15 if you would not consider price difference 30 cents per gal. ? My objective is to reach most longevity and reliability. if i use non-ethanol fuel in small engines i can start it at any time of the year even if it sits in garage for entire year without usage, that would not be the case with e10-e15. i know it is different scenario and different engine. what would work cleaner non-ethanol, e10 or e15. Second follow-up question would be: can i achieve better longevity if using non-ethanol fuel (remove the cost out of equation )

 

[Mavman321]

Valid argument. do you think it worth to use ethanol free gasoline vs ethanol e10 or e15 if you would not consider price difference 30 cents per gal. ? My objective is to reach most longevity and reliability. if i use non-ethanol fuel in small engines i can start it at any time of the year even if it sits in garage for entire year without usage, that would not be the case with e10-e15. i know it is different scenario and different engine. what would work cleaner non-ethanol, e10 or e15. Second follow-up question would be: can i achieve better longevity if using non-ethanol fuel (remove the cost out of equation )

I do use non ethanol fuels in all my small engines such as weed eater, leaf blower, etc. Which are not designed for ethanol fuels.

I do not use ethanol free in any of my vehicles. The cost differential is way too much. You will get about 3% better MPG using ethanol free, but it's always priced much more than 3% above E10.

Modern vehicles are made with fuel hoses, o rings, and gaskets that withstand the ethanol in fuels now.

If you remove cost from the equation then yes I would always use ethanol free fuel for the minor efficiency improvements, not engine longevity.

 

[mavmav]

I do use non ethanol fuels in all my small engines such as weed eater, leaf blower, etc. Which are not designed for ethanol fuels.

I do not use ethanol free in any of my vehicles. The cost differential is way too much. You will get about 3% better MPG using ethanol free, but it's always priced much more than 3% above E10.

Modern vehicles are made with fuel hoses, o rings, and gaskets that withstand the ethanol in fuels now.

If you remove cost from the equation then yes I would always use ethanol free fuel for the minor efficiency improvements, not engine longevity.

interesting, I was always under impression that ethanol is causing carbon build-up in direct injection engines. with my mileage i would spend extra $80 per year on none-ethanol fuel. i will do more research on none-ethanol gasoline

 

[rlhdweman]

I do use non ethanol fuels in all my small engines such as weed eater, leaf blower, etc. Which are not designed for ethanol fuels.

I do not use ethanol free in any of my vehicles. The cost differential is way too much. You will get about 3% better MPG using ethanol free, but it's always priced much more than 3% above E10.

Modern vehicles are made with fuel hoses, o rings, and gaskets that withstand the ethanol in fuels now.

If you remove cost from the equation then yes I would always use ethanol free fuel for the minor efficiency improvements, not engine longevity.

Better check your MPGS again, in every vehicle I have owned since 1991(11 of them) I have got 10-15% lower fuel economy with E-10 fuel. My Maverick is no exception, on my hwy test loop I got 29.7 with E-10 fuel & 32.6 with no ethanol gas.

 

[ejouie]

I thought that the 2.5L was Sequential Mass Fuel Injection (port injection)?

 

[mavmav]

Better check your MPGS again, in every vehicle I have owned since 1991(11 of them) I have got 10-15% lower fuel economy with E-10 fuel. My Maverick is no exception, on my hwy test loop I got 29.7 with E-10 fuel & 32.6 with no ethanol gas.

That's big difference "29.7 with E-10 fuel & 2.6 with no ethanol gas." in next few weeks i will test my MPG on e-10. now i am using non-ethanol since it is only 30 cents more than e10.

 

[Mavman321]

interesting, I was always under impression that ethanol is causing carbon build-up in direct injection engines. with my mileage i would spend extra $80 per year on none-ethanol fuel. i will do more research on none-ethanol gasoline

That's not a bad deal. Ethanol free is much more than 30 cents more where I'm at.

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