Hybrid +12V Battery Replacement

[GPSMan]

So I thought that I was in the clear after the last few weeks of no voltage issues. My truck lights and screen would come on every time I got in my truck. I knew the problem hadn't vanished, but I was enjoying the "vacation" in my mind of telling myself perhaps I'd be okay.

Drove close to 100 miles yesterday, and within 12 hours this morning my truck was dead. Had to physically turn my key just to enter the truck. I went 3x to Ford and got NOTHING from them, so I think I'm gonna try replacing the battery myself with the Duralast Gold you did.

Have you had any issues since your replacement? Anything I should know before I head to AutoZone later? I've got a 6 day trip through Utah scheduled for next week and I refuse to cancel and let Ford "win". I'm determined to solve this myself.

Good attitude.

Changing the battery model / brand removes one variable. That is a worthwhile endeavor. I think it will take weeks or months to determine if "problem is solved" or not.

But I'd sure be happier to have a defective 12v battery than defective truck.

I truly hope this is it.

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[Hdang1980]

6 weeks since battery swap with no incident.

 

[GPSMan]

I can charge with key on at 14.6 to 15.2 volts on mine all day long, the next morning (like 16-17 hours sitting) it's down to 11.9v. Or 11.8 volts.

I just turned off WiFi in mine. i have never used the on-board wi-fi but was one of the "lucky ones" to get it as a standard feature before it was deleted on later builds.

Gonna let it sit a whopping 48 hours and see if the resting voltage is better than 11.9.

I let it sit for two whole days with WiFi off. I used two cheap meters and one OBDII scanner. Here's the voltage after hours of charging at 15 volts before parking. Up to you which meter you want to trust. CEN-TECH was consistently a little lower, but matches pretty close to OBDII

 

[GPSMan]

I noticed Ford Pass App still works with WiFi off.

I deleted the app from my phone just now to see if that helps. It was updating gps location, tire pressures, oil life, and miles every 2 hours no matter if I had the app open or not.

 

[Hardening2753]

^^ Correct, from Advance Auto.....

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/diehard-gold-battery-t4-group-size-470-cca-585-ca-70-minute-reserve-capacity-maximum-starting-power-t4/10653462-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*15000


.

Thanks for the post. Especially that the tube connection is the same. I hope the new battery fixed your issue

 

[GPSMan]

Totally different make and model.
Optima Blue Top AGM

8+ years old.
First 3 years I used it for a small electric trolling motor. Would run it down to about 11.8 then charge it back up overnight.

The past 5+ years I use it on a 3500# winch on a flatbed trailer. Since moving it to the rarely used trailer I only put this battery on a charger about twice a year: Spring & Fall.

At 8 yo this is the resting Voltage.
So why does my 8 month old mav battery rest at 11.8 to 12.0!?

 

[damnclose]

Totally different make and model.
Optima Blue Top AGM

8+ years old.
First 3 years I used it for a small electric trolling motor. Would run it down to about 11.8 then charge it back up overnight.

The past 5+ years I use it on a 3500# winch on a flatbed trailer. Since moving it to the rarely used trailer I only put this battery on a charger about twice a year: Spring & Fall.

At 8 yo this is the resting Voltage.
So why does my 8 month old mav battery rest at 11.8 to 12.0!?

You didn't buy the cheapest battery you could afford but Ford did. Remember this is there cheapest vehicle not he luxury line. I have no prof but I will not be replacing my battery with Motorcraft/Ford. I see on Pep Boys they have a battery looks like the same as Die Hard, called Value grade P/N T4-470VG for $50. Not saying I recommend it but seams like a cheap test battery if you are having problems.

 

[BlueSpec1]

I've been watching my Maverick 2.0L AGM, Escape PHEV AGM 12V batteries with BM2 battery monitors.
Maverick's is OEM Group 48, truck bought 2-2023.
Escape's is Group 48, bought the battery 12-2022 & installed in place of OEM Group 99R FLA.

The Maverick was driven yesterday for couple of short drives.
The Escape has been sitting, I charged its AGM battery yesterday.

Screenshot of the batteries. The one labeled Bolt is actually the Escape's OEM FLA battery like in Maverick Hybrids. I haven't connect the BM2 to my Bolt's AGM yet.


Maverick's 12V AGM battery for 5-30:

Escape PHEV's 12V AGM battery for 5-30

 

[Random]

I believe I read elsewhere that for hybrid we cannot/shouldn’t use AGM because of a software setting in the battery management system.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I believe I read elsewhere that for hybrid we cannot/shouldn’t use AGM because of a software setting in the battery management system.

That's true but your battery type can be set by forscan/dealer and possibly by installing a fully charged or almost same and running the "battery learn procedure" mentioned in manual which can take up to 8 hours. I am just guessing but due to the time the procedure must surely trickle charge it to 100% and other incremental tests to determine your battery's max acceptable charge voltage so it can calibrate it's best possible rate of charging.

 

[Uncle Ed]

Something is really atypical with the 12v batteries that shipped. So does anyone think they are bad or "different" chemistry? Supplier got an impure batch of lead, or something?

I can charge with key on at 14.6 to 15.2 volts on mine all day long, the next morning (like 16-17 hours sitting) it's down to 11.9v. Or 11.8 volts.

I just turned off WiFi in mine. i have never used the on-board wi-fi but was one of the "lucky ones" to get it as a standard feature before it was deleted on later builds.

Gonna let it sit a whopping 48 hours and see if the resting voltage is better than 11.9.

What is your voltage immediately after you turn off the truck? With a meter plugged in accessories plug my voltage while running is usually 14.8 , if I drive a longer distance it will show 13.1, then when I truck off 12.3 to 12.8. I've not had issues yet. When I first got the truck voltage would be 15.1 when running.

 

[GPSMan]

What is your voltage immediately after you turn off the truck? With a meter plugged in accessories plug my voltage while running is usually 14.8 , if I drive a longer distance it will show 13.1, then when I truck off 12.3 to 12.8. I've not had issues yet. When I first got the truck voltage would be 15.1 when running.

It's 14.6 to 15.2 volts while DC/DC is running. Never lower.

It's 11.8 to 12.4 when not running. Which is getting me by, but is on the low side for a lead-acid battery.

 

[BAScott62]

What is your voltage immediately after you turn off the truck? With a meter plugged in accessories plug my voltage while running is usually 14.8 , if I drive a longer distance it will show 13.1, then when I truck off 12.3 to 12.8. I've not had issues yet. When I first got the truck voltage would be 15.1 when running.

I have a USB Adapter and Meter of dubious qualtity in the 12V that reads almost identically to those numbers.

 

[GPSMan]

Some more observations:

Drove home an hour or more with low voltage side showing 15.0 volts +/- 0.2 volts the whole trip. At start, 11 amps going into the 12v battery. 2 min later 7 amps going into the 12v battery. 2 min later 4 amps going into 12v battery. 2 min later zero amps going into the 12v battery. Voltage stays at 15.0 whole drive. I assume truck assumes the 12v battery is all topped off.

I get home. I don't lock the truck. I play with my dogs for 45 minutes.
No key in ignition, no key in pocket, nearest key is in house, 75 feet away, in a cast iron dutch oven. Safe to say no key is secretly communicating with truck?

I open the unlocked passenger front door. The parking lamps or "welcoming lamps" come on, truck bed lamps (stock) come on. Interior dome light comes on. Ford logo on Radio display come on. OBDII scanner comes on but gets NO DATA just power. Is the truck considered "awake"??

On a hunch, a minute later I open and close the DRIVER door by just reaching over. I don't get out of the front passenger seat. Same response only now the OBDII scanner is alive and getting live data (temperatures, volts, amps) from the various modules in the truck. Is the truck now considered "awake"? In my opinion, yes.

It is consuming power, no doubt.
With dome light and "welcome" lights on, it's drawing 11 amps out of the 12 volt battery. After sitting still, and waiting for the lights to "time out", once all lamps are off, there's still 4 amps coming out of the 12v battery.

No matter how much charging time I give it, it's at 12.2 volts in this state. And 12.0 volts with the welcome lights on. And 11.8 or 11.9 volts just "resting" the following morning.

So those in flat tow mode, beware, it's pretty simple to "wake up" your truck and draw down a lot of 12 volt juice.

No key, 45 minutes after a long trip of charging, welcome lights on:

45 minutes after a long charge, all lamps off: scanner only accessory plugged in:

 

[GPSMan]

5 nights ago, I drove home, put it park.

Key-on 14.6 volts
Turned key off; only dome lights, and scanner on. Manually switched headlamps off, didn't wait for the timer.

I watched the voltage drop 0.1 per second; like I was watching the New Years Eve Times Square ball drop at midnight.

Went 14.2 to 12.2 volts in under 1 minute.
That's not a picture of a healthy 12 volt lead acid battery.

Yet, my daily driver gets me to work daily. I would not know any of this from the stock gauges and widgets.

This may be prevalent and people don't know because it keeps starting with the Hybrid battery.

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