HYBRID 12V Battery Mystery SOLVED

[HeyBales]

Double lock notifies computer you are through with truck for awhile and to advance shutdown of possible delay items. If you are in neutral tow and put in park then do not do anything else for 15 minutes. Double lock may or may not be ok during that time depending on how good the program was written. Be safe do not due anything for 15 minutes while computer restores non neutral tow status of all modules.

Ken - since you have 25 - I'd be curious if you see a difference.

It appears 24MY already changed and does the above with the single lock - as nothing changes between single or double lock - except the horn sounding if you have that option set.
Interior/exterior lights off at same time, screen & power points off at same time, ect.
I don't have 120V outlet to notice though.

Of course - I can only test this when the battery is NOT in max power saver mode - nothing like all lights off pretty much immediately on door opening! Not totally true, but close enough.

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[KenE]

Ken - since you have 25 - I'd be curious if you see a difference.

It appears 24MY already changed and does the above with the single lock - as nothing changes between single or double lock - except the horn sounding if you have that option set.
Interior/exterior lights off at same time, screen & power points off at same time, ect.
I don't have 120V outlet to notice though.

Of course - I can only test this when the battery is NOT in max power saver mode - nothing like all lights off pretty much immediately on door opening! Not totally true, but close enough.

Can't honestly say I remember doing double lock, but as stated earlier, I seldom lock. I'll try to test this.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

I am getting evidence the charging is modified by ambient temperature. Maybe temperature inside the cab since the 12v battery is in the cab of the hybrids.

10 days in a row, A.M. commute in the 50°Fs. Charging at 14.7 to 14.8 volts.

9 days in a row, P.M. commute in the 70's. (Cab in the 90's to low 100's).
Charging at 14.3 to 14.4 volts.

Today, P.M. commute in the 80's. (Cab while parked 110°Fs).
Charging at 13.9 to 14.0 volts.

(Note coolant matches ambient before starting, 84°F.)

Trailer lamp attachment used all days.
( In lieu of headlamps )

 

[El Kabong]

I am getting evidence the charging is modified by ambient temperature.

Yes.
https://www.batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-410-charging-at-high-and-low-temperatures/

 

[HeyBales]

I am getting evidence the charging is modified by ambient temperature. Maybe temperature inside the cab since the 12v battery is in the cab of the hybrids.

10 days in a row, A.M. commute in the 50°Fs. Charging at 14.7 to 14.8 volts.

9 days in a row, P.M. commute in the 70's. (Cab in the 90's to low 100's).
Charging at 14.3 to 14.4 volts.

Today, P.M. commute in the 80's. (Cab while parked 110°Fs).
Charging at 13.9 to 14.0 volts.

(Note coolant matches ambient before starting, 84°F.)

Trailer lamp attachment used all days.
( In lieu of headlamps )

Observed as well under the normal routine.
Really drops fast to low amps when below 40-30 F in cab. Actually, kept a remote thermo under there once - cab warming up don't help much under there at all.
I could never find a PID for 12VB temp, though I'm sure the sensor has one.

I though it was double sad - bad impact to battery when cold anyway, and now less charging amps done, and usually less trips by me. Though longer drives for camping - knew that had to help.

My cumulative figures charge vs discharge is always worse off discharge after winter.

That's nice to see with your method it's still inspired to charge higher amps to get back to 100% SOC.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I am getting evidence the charging is modified by ambient temperature. Maybe temperature inside the cab since the 12v battery is in the cab of the hybrids.

10 days in a row, A.M. commute in the 50°Fs. Charging at 14.7 to 14.8 volts.

9 days in a row, P.M. commute in the 70's. (Cab in the 90's to low 100's).
Charging at 14.3 to 14.4 volts.

Today, P.M. commute in the 80's. (Cab while parked 110°Fs).
Charging at 13.9 to 14.0 volts.

(Note coolant matches ambient before starting, 84°F.)

Trailer lamp attachment used all days.
( In lieu of headlamps )

And at less than about 50+/- you will see 15+ volts. Voltage increase to supply current needed for possible expected needs.

 

[Cherokee]

I must have missed it.
Problem solved? How?
Did someone fix it so the battery gets a full charge ?
I see nothing but more patch overs,
Post number showing the fix is ?
I’m slow.

I have no problems in my eco but it only charges to 80%
I understand that 80% charges extend lithium service life and shortens lead acid AND AGM service life.

 

[SafetyGuy]

I must have missed it.
Problem solved? How?
Did someone fix it so the battery gets a full charge ?
I see nothing but more patch overs,
Post number showing the fix is ?
I’m slow.

I have no problems in my eco but it only charges to 80%
I understand that 80% charges extend lithium service life and shortens lead acid AND AGM service life.

Good day Cherokee

Short answer for Hybrid trucks charging the 12 volt battery poorly:

Mavster Mechanic has found that by selecting headlights on manually or plugging a 12 bulb led light that slides into the hitch receiver and plugs in, both tell the truck to increase the amperage in the 12 volt system.

Turning g the headlights on seems to be helping my truck as well, as my charging rate was always just over 13 amp, but now is showing a 12 volt charge level of about 14.8 volts as we drive around...much better!

Edit to add note

Observations and conclusions were made possible by their using and watching their ScanGuage 3.

Cheers,

Andy

 

[Master Blaster]

And at less than about 50+/- you will see 15+ volts. Voltage increase to supply current needed for possible expected needs.

I hope not! 15V will damage an AGM battery.

 

[Mavster Mechanic]

I hope not! 15V will damage an AGM battery.

Above 15.

15 is on the fence.

 

[rdmaverick]

Did anyone try the accessory power connections in the bed to see that would trigger full 12v charging?

 

[Dave O]

I need more data

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I need more data

Here tis.....
Check out Rapid Recharge

Charging OPTIMA® AGM Batteries
OPTIMA YELLOWTOP® CHARGING INFORMATION

The following charging methods are recommended to ensure a long battery life. Always use a voltage-regulated charger, with voltage limits set as described below.

YELLOWTOP Type: D51 & D51R - D35 – DS46B24R - D75/25 - D34 – D34/78 - D27F - DH5 - DH6 - DH7

These batteries are dual-purpose. They are designed for engine start and cyclic applications and for use in vehicles with large accessory loads.

Recommended charging information:

• Alternator:
  • 13.65 to 15.0 volts, no amperage limit.
• Battery Charger:
  • 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, for approximately six to twelve hours.
• Cyclic Applications:
  • 14.7 volts, no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). When current falls below one amp, finish with two-amp constant current for one hour.
• Rapid Recharge:
  • Maximum voltage 15.6 volts (regulated), no current limit as long as battery temperature remains below 125°F (51.7°C). Charge until current drops below one amp.
• Float Charge:
  • 13.2 to 13.8 volts, one amp maximum current, time indefinite (at lower voltage).
  • Strictly adhere to all limits.

 

[Darryl]

The service writers just kept blowing me off and treating it like it was nothing, until I went to the sales and service dept managers. Then they got serious about investigating the problem. So far, the issue seems resolved.

I really am sick of all the theories and excuses for lack of performance. Fix the damn thing, it's been years and many unresolved SSM's.

I Ford's defense, this is a very difficult problem to solve for the following reasons: 1. It's intermittent. 2. Disconnecting the battery in order to connect the testing instruments makes the problem go away in many cases. 3. The vehicle may sit for several hours with no drain, then all of a sudden start draining then the drain spontaneously stops for another hour. So when you isolate the circuit, did the drain stop because you found the circuit, or did it stop by coincidence? And was the component that was staying awake the offending component, or was another component keeping it awake? And why did the various fixes work for some vehicles but not for others? And why do MOST vehicles not have the problem at all? I actually had a Field service engineer at the dealership WITH me for two days. We THOUGHT we had it licked. He left. The truck showed no drain for a full week. Then it drained practically overnight. He stated that Ford had about 20 Mavericks they had bought back and were going over with a fine toothed comb. Hopefully this fix takes care of the rest of the problem vehicles. It's a stain on an otherwise great vehicle. Again, the vast majority never have a problem. But it happens enough and is difficult to solve when it does happen. So it becomes notorious.

 

[Hcopter]

Fact: running your headlamps will force the 12v battery to be 100% charged given enough time. (DRL will not do it. Parking Lamps only will do it.)

David, can you clarify if "Parking Lamps only" will cause your battery to charge to 100%?

Your first post reads that way but I had assumed, based on further writing in your posts, that you intended for it to read "Parking Lamps only will NOT do it"

I ask because I just noticed that my 2023 Lariat does appear to start charging when switching the lights to Parking Lamps only, at least at 87% SOC.

Mike

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