My mostly-highway 87 XLT had the original bulletproof German 2.8L engine and Mazda 5-speed, but 2 rads, 4 clutches, 2 driveshafts and 2 rear-ends, 5 windshields and 2 rear bumpers. The rear-end bearings were a poor design that ran on the shafts instead of a race, and the u-joints and leaf...
Realistically, I'd switch vehicles in about 1/2 million miles, when it costs more to keep it going than its worth. I've had 2 Rangers that I sold, one at 186k and one at 744k, and I expect the Hybrid Mav to be at least that good.
The exceptionally-poor assumption in the title of this question should be modified, as there are probably only the smallest number of Hybrid owners regretting their decision. Maybe it should be asking whether owners of "full-size" trucks regret their overpriced and underperforming decision.
What do you mean by TPMS on the valve stem? Ford has been using TPMS on the inside of the valve stem since 2014, getting away from the ones on a rubber band on the rim last used in 2013.
The FWD Mav does excellent in even deep snow.
The AWD Mav is essentially FWD for 99% of your winter driving, and only switches to AWD when you are slipping. For the extra cost and complexity, its not worth it. Just get a spare set of steelies and proper ice/snow tires and FWD has better real...
So what's different? Different fuel, temperature, pushing water, different load, stuck brake, time for plugs, different driver, different route, whatever.
Well, discarding the AI bullshit statement, I measured my Michelin Primacies against aftermarket Primacies. Both were about 9/32nds, and easily wear to their rated distance of 60k. Like I said, it's mostly about how hard you drive.
Yeah, people who drive reasonably get the rated mileage or better out of the factory tires. People with a heavy foot or on really bad road quality eat them up and then complain very loudly about crummy factory tires, when the real problem is the nut behind the steering wheel.
Proper synthetic oils that come to mind: Penzoil, Motul, Redline, Amsoil, LiquiMoly, Eneos, Royal Purple, maybe other mostly European or Japanese products.
I think the highest end Castrol Syntec might be group4, but with a screwy additive package. Shell Rotella T6 is also a group5 synthetic...
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Fake synthetics are oil-based, usually highly refined to mostly group3 molecules. Real synthetics are made of group4 (PAO) and group5 (esters) molecules that are only found in extremely small quantities in Dino pee. Most synthetic oil on the shelf are fake, courtesy of U.S politics. Real...
There are so many factors in getting excellent gas mileage that its hard to get them all straight. Higher speeds in something with the aerodynamics of a brick obviously factor in, but what speed, level ground or hills, temperature, weather, what tires, how many passengers and how much load...
Hehe. On country roads I get 3.0-3.4L/100km, or 69-78mpg in my Hybrid. Highway at 70mph I get 5.4L/100km or 43mpg. Most of those empty monster trucks beside you can't even get out of their driveway on the fuel that I use to get across the city.
You must not have decent snow in your area. AWD is a bit better at getting going in snow and ice, but due to the extra weight and increased drag it is somewhat less capable of stopping. Getting stopped is the goal, not getting started. Ice and snow tires are quite a bit better than 3-season...
Most owners are getting close to the rated mileage from the OEM tires, and those that do not, tend to bitch here and make it look like good tires are terrible.
You might get suprised, but most supposedly U.S-made tires like Goodyears are actually made in Vietnam or China and are better made and...
Urghh. Don't want you in my neighborhood. Good for an unnecessary noise ticket, and if they get underneath, the backpressure change gets your plates pulled here for pollution control tampering. Kind of stupid just to make it sound like a rice rocket wannabe.