Garbage Jack Handle

[Ryom]

I live in the Rust Belt, so anti-seize went on the lugs the very first time I took the tires off (which was within 800 miles of buying new).

I also spread a bit around the center bore hole/flange and hub face to help prevent the wheels themselves from rusting in place.

Are you still torquing them to spec? The anti-sieze will cause over spec if you aren't lowering the torque wrench setting.

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[Optimus]

Are you still torquing them to spec? The anti-sieze will cause over spec if you aren't lowering the torque wrench setting.

yes I am aware of that—thanks.

 

[TwoTone]

First thing I taught my wife and kids. Find a position for the wrench that allows you to comfortably stand on it. Use your weight.

 

[Vipereatr]

Went to Harbor F and bought a 1/2 inch extension (had the socket) and tried to loosen wheel nuts on right front - the nuts seemed loose to me (tight but not very). So time to pull out my torque wrench.

 

[Joe Strummer]

For Mav owners out there, try the jack handle on your lug nuts before a flat occurs and be prepared as you motor along. Ford should be ashamed of the metal quality of that jack handle.
f1jim

Good advice.

 

[Solaryellow]

I'm fan of my well used four-way lug wrench and homemade breaker bar. I keep behind the rear seat.


Using it won't void your warranty.

Good idea but I've never been a fan of having a 4 way (3 way in your case? lol) as it always seems to jump around. As weird as it sounds, I've went with the route (not in this truck) with a 1/2" ratchet with a small breaker bar attachment.

 

[dalola]

Have you thrown it away already?
Or can you snap a picture and post it to show how badly it bent up.

I second this proposal....I wanna see it! Now I'm wondering if the jack handle had some kind of defect....

 

[Veritable]

Good idea but I've never been a fan of having a 4 way (3 way in your case? lol) as it always seems to jump around. As weird as it sounds, I've went with the route (not in this truck) with a 1/2" ratchet with a small breaker bar attachment.

I decided to test my Ford lug wrench again. This time I torqued the lug nuts to 120 lbs. (148 is too much). The factory torque on my wheels was approximately 80 lbs. I removed and replaced 5 lug nuts using the Ford lug wrench. Attached are pics of the wrench after the test. As you can see it is undamaged. I wonder if Ford upgraded the lug wrench at some point. Maybe 148 lbs is the breaking point.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

"Veritable"
Thank you for the pictures.
So handy nowadays, literally everybody has a camera in their pocket.
Glad to see the stock lug wrench handled the job it was intended for.

 

[f1jim]

I actually ditched the jack handle and jack since I replaced both but kept the rod that lowers the spare.. in all fairness it only looked mildly tweaked when not in use after twice attempting to use it. It was while torqing on lug nuts the degree of twist got scary. Look, if anyone is happy after attempting to use it, good on ya. I just encourage everyone to at least try it before needing it in an emergency
f1jim

I decided to test my Ford lug wrench again. This time I torqued the lug nuts to 120 lbs. (148 is too much). The factory torque on my wheels was approximately 80 lbs. I removed and replaced 5 lug nuts using the Ford lug wrench. Attached are pics of the wrench after the test. As you can see it is undamaged. I wonder if Ford upgraded the lug wrench at some point. Maybe 148 lbs is the breaking point.

You have great shots of the jack handle. The socket part was plenty strong enough, the problem was where that part is riveted to the upper arm. That upper arm is what started bending severely. The socket part is plenty strong. It held securely to the lug nut.
f1jim

 

[Eggflipper]

First thing I put under my back seat was a breaker bar with the correct size socket. Better to have and not need. Especially at 1:00 in the morning during a snow storm on the side of the road. < worst case scenario.

 

[DougK]

Mav owners out there, try the jack handle on your lug nuts before a flat occurs and be prepared as you motor along. Ford should be ashamed of the metal quality of that jack handle.
f1jim

same experience - first flat tire, put the handle on and applied pressure, the handle moved steadily downward but the lug nut did not move. Now I have a bent jack handle. I'm an old guy and not particularly strong, but was easily able to deform the metal of the handle, long before the nut moved.
Luckily the next guy along the dirt road had an impact wrench in the big toolbox on back of his truck, or I'd still be walking into town..

This handle is a disappointment..

 

[Carlitos_92]

I have always kept a four-way tire iron in my vehicle. Recently, I got one of these with a Milwaukee socket set. We ended up needing it when our scout trailer blew a tire. It made a huge difference compared to just using a tire iron. I keep it under the back seat with a battery.

That looks like the one I just bought for the exact same purpose. I tried the smaller version (about half the price) first, and it could not get a lug nut off, even though I only do mine hand-tight. That one works. Add a 13/16" thin wall impact socket, and you're in business.

 

[Hot Runr Guy]

Along these same lines, might as well address the tool to lower the spare tire.

https://steelmantools.com/products/standard-square-head-tire-tool

and my enhancement of it,,,

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...access-tool-upgrade.66338/page-2#post-1231962

HRG

 

[jonshep]

I have 3 vehicles and all of them are equiped with 24" HF inexpensive 1/2" drive breakover handles and deep impact sockets for tire removal and replacement. I have around $12 invested in the breakover handles and $1 in the deep sockets. The sockets I pick up at a pawn shop. Finding the right size socket is a challenge as the pawn shop has them in a big square wooden box and you have to dig around. My wife has no problem breaking lug nuts loose with a 24" handle. The Ford jacks are man killers and I avoid using them, unless I am out on the road. In an emergency they will lift the vehicle, but stay cautious and don't get in a position for injury. Just plan on the jack failing. For those of you who don't know, there is a specific sequence for changing a flat. Setp 1, remove the spare from its holding place. Step 2, break loose the lug nuts, just loosen the nuts do not remove. Step 3, jack up the vehicle. Step 4, remove lug nuts then remove tire and rim. Step 5, mount the spare and put the lug nuts on and sug them, snug them. Step 5, jack the vehicle down putting weight on the spare, remove the jack from under the vehicle. Step 6, Use your lug wrench and tighten the lug nuts, tight. Step 6, return the flat tire, wrench, and jack to the bed of your truck or inside trunk, hatch back. There's no need to secure those items elsewhere since you will have tire repaired or replaced when you get home, where you have a floor jack and jack stands which are way safer. Be aware that if you are in Kansas, Oklahoma, or Texas on a Turnpike and you are doing this procedure on the shoulder, traffic is coming by you at 80 mph, so don't trip or stumble into traffic.

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