You are correct; your B&O is not wired the same as the XL/XLTs. Otherwise I would've chimed in already. 😀
Not to revive the horse we beat to death in your other thread, but in Forscan, the door/dash speakers are probably already configured how you'd want them, since the factory speakers are...
You need to do that to connect wirelessly, because CarPlay starts its connection with a Bluetooth handshake and then switches to an ad hoc Wi-Fi connection directly to the Ford head unit.
You don't need Bluetooth or Wi-Fi if you are connecting via a USB cable. It's mostly irrelevant because...
Well, it's conflating different things. Bluetooth really is not related to wireless CarPlay or Android Auto.
Further, using either of those systems on your phone will absolutely use cellular data (on your phone), though it is up to the carriers to decide what counts as "data" and what the...
There are a bunch of devices available for this function. If you want feedback on a specific product, a link, or screenshot, or even a brand name would be helpful.
I have one in each Flexbed port - USB on one side and SAE on the other. My only complaint is that after a while the rubber cap in the SAE version won't stay in the hole, so to speak. Not too worried about it; I just put some tape on the rubber cap to increase its diameter so the fit is...
But you need the two electrical pigtails under the rear seat to power the search, the tiny button in the overhead console to hit "enter," and the little white funnel thing to filter the answers...
Well, I didn't get 4K (wasn't my choice) so maybe that is it.
Totally agree on the wacky MY differences. Some of the variations like fender insulation and glovebox dampers seem even more random still.
I'm not the OP and am not putting speakers under the seat, but he is proposing doing that AND having pods up near the existing 4" locations, so his staging should be fine.
Personally I DID replace the factory rear speakers, but it was a pain. Given the rest of my setup (dash/door speakers, DSP...
I've been in the software and changed it before running my amp's DSP setup. It's both, at least on the non-B&O. Ironically, I went back and put bass blockers on my replacement 4" speakers - partly because I'm feeding them 50W each now. :D
Hey there. I am not 100% familiar with the B&O, but I believe you are correct that the rears are powered form the head unit itself. I'd be very surprised if they were anywhere near 35W per channel, though. A search on the forum may turn up some more reliable info on how the B&O is wired up...
I agree that everyone should have a tire gauge, but the accuracy of OEM TPMS sensors definitely varies... Mine are within 1 psi compared to my own inflator, my manual gauges, and even the Costco filling station.