10w30? From a dealer in an EcoBoost? Thought 5w30 was Fords recommended oil, oh well.Change around 5thous. Doesn’t use any, 14 thous mi on it , 10-30 blend what their putting in it
Both are 30 weight oils.10w30? From a dealer in an EcoBoost? Thought 5w30 was Fords recommended oil, oh well.
The link of you at 11 did not work. Did you have to warranty the job on your Brothers Buick?Most mfgs. will tell you one qt. per thousand miles is " normal". I dont necessesarily agree with that but some engines just consume more than others.
I had a loose oil filter on the Maverick after the first oil change... it sucked down three qts. in around 6k after I did the intiial service at 1200 miles. Somehow I failed to tighten the filter! I think the only time it lost oil was when the oil pressure was above normal pressure like when you would accelerate to freeway speeds. I changed the oil just prior to our yearly blast down to Florida in February.
I don't see any evidence of an oil leak right now but I haven't taken down that steel skid plate to get a closer look.
The next change is due in about a thousand miles. I may switch to a heavier grade oil ( maybe straight 50wt. like they use in nitro fueled dragsters!) and see how things go.
I'm supposed to get that dumb backup camera software redone so maybe I will have a talk with the dealer about it.
I spent several years at the local Ford store in sales but got my ASE certification on a bet with the service mangler after he pretty much told me I wasn't smart enough to pass the tests.
I was certified in five areas of repair including engine and transmission work. I have been doing engine work since I was ten years old as I had to pull the head off of my brothers '52 Buick and carry it to the local machine shop in my little red wagon!
I have had an engine assembly area in my shop for the last 30 years having done quite a bit of engine work out there.
Today few OEM dealers do any real engine work as most favor a total engine replacement rathar than fixing whats broke but much of that is due to not having HD mechanics working under their roof.
A little oil consumption doesn't bother me much but the thought of some of these doofus techs working on the innards of a pretty new car kinda does!
The truck is still under warranty and I do have an extended warranty until 150k plus Pennzoil has been touting that if you use their Ultra Platimun oil they will cover repairs up to 750,000 miles.
I won' live long enough to see 100k so I should be ok.
Film at 11.
Never broke but it was a $25 car!The link of you at 11 did not work. Did you have to warranty the job on your Brothers Buick?
Here's the thing. At least I think it's a thing.Here’s my experience so far with the new 2025 EcoBoost — honestly, this engine is a beast across the full RPM band. I love the torque, especially how it sounds and pulls at low revs.
1st oil change: at 495 miles (break-in flush) — replaced the factory Motorcraft oil with a Group IV full synthetic. Zero oil consumption.
2nd oil change: at 5,005 miles — about 300cc of oil used during the interval.
3rd oil change: at 13,015 miles — around 600cc consumed.
I always top off and keep the oil right at the MAX line (or just 1mm below).
For now, I’m very impressed with this engine’s balance, performance, and oil control.
No complaints
Explain why running anywhere within the approved range would be better than anywhere else from a consumption perspective. Blow-by and crank case pressures would be the same. The low mark isn't "better" than the high mark, unless the high mark causes windage. If there's windage, the engineers have put the high mark in the wrong place on the stick.Here's the thing. At least I think it's a thing.
People who add to the max. line lose more oil than people who keep it at the min. line.
Remember, anywhere between the two lines is acceptable, and in general, this is a case of more ≠ better.
Sure... for personal mental comfort, running it on the high side "feels" better. But it's not better for the engine as long as you don't go too low.
An extra quart can cost you 0.5 MPG too. While not a lot it will add up in 100,000 miles.
When I’ve changed oil and filters in previous vehicles, I’ve always filled to about 3/4 after running so filter can fill up.More slop, sling, slosh, splash, in other words, more friction at the high mark vs. the lower mark? Absolutely.
It's not an exact or precise cutoff. But a gradual effect that can include some or all of the following:
Extra engine oil can create excessive pressure within the crankcase, potentially forcing oil past seals and gaskets, causing leaks & oil consumption
When the crankshaft churns the excess oil, it can create foam, which doesn't lubricate the engine as effectively as liquid oil. This can lead to increased friction and wear on engine components.
Excessively overfilled oil can also lead to issues like spark plug fouling, catalytic converter damage, and unusual engine noises.
There's not a distinct line when this happens. But there is a distinct line on the dipstick. Which is a bit of a misnomer.
That's windage. There should be no windage at the full mark, with the possible exception of very steep vehicle angles, very hard cornering, etc. Again, if there is windage at the full mark, there was a moron in the engineering department that decided where to locate the mark.More slop, sling, slosh, splash, in other words, more friction at the high mark vs. the lower mark? Absolutely.
It's not an exact or precise cutoff.
Extra engine oil can create excessive pressure within the crankcase, potentially forcing oil past seals and gaskets, causing leaks & oil consumption
When the crankshaft churns the excess oil, it can create foam, which doesn't lubricate the engine as effectively as liquid oil. This can lead to increased friction and wear on engine components.
Excessively overfilled oil can also lead to issues like spark plug fouling, catalytic converter damage, and unusual engine noises.
There's not a distinct line when this happens. But there is a distinct line on the dipstick. Which is a bit of a misnomer.