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@Harry's Humble Hitch I tried to send you a PM, but the website won't allow me to start a conversation with you for some reason. I get the error "You may not start a direct message with the following recipients: Harry's Humble Hitch." Maybe you can shoot me a PM and I can respond to it...

Is this still available?

I absolutely agree with you, and that's why I already mentioned the cost and packaging in post #232 and posted the same link in post #230.

Chances are it does. I have a 26 year old car that has one.

OK, I may take back what I said earlier. These early exhausts seem to show more rust than the later ones. I think they may have made another change to a more stainless material.

The only change I'm aware of in exhaust from '22 - 24 is from the box-style resonator to the patch style. This was likely cost savings and easier packaging or fit under the vehicle. The change in 2025 was probably mostly due to knowing they would soon be adding the GPF.

You both have a muffler and a resonator. He has a box-type resonator toward the end of the tailpipe, you have a patch-type resonator toward the end of the tailpipe. They both perform the same function. Saying that there is a straight pipe after the muffler on any Maverick is not accurate, and...

I check mine every time I leave my garage. I step on the brake pedal and it shines against my white garage door. That's why I'm OK with having a notoriously unreliable Lasfit LED in the third position (for now).

There is a resonator patch after the main muffler, which is different from having a straight pipe.

Cool. Thanks for that. I have the BCM/F-150 switch setup as well, but I wasn't aware of the "puck" type remotes. They could come in handy for other projects.

Yes, I would assume that it is for the 2025 since the http link specifically says current-forscan-spreadsheet-for-2025-maverick. :wink: You don't need to know what the original code is as long as you back up the "as-built" configurations for all of the modules before you start changing code...

Of course a 12v relay is the easy way to make any auxiliary lights work, but it won't operate the way the OP wants it to. @bgn Is the thought with the remote to hold it in one hand and steer with the other so that the OP doesn't have to look down at a switch on the dash? Stick the remote to...

Yes, that would work if the high beams were activated by a 12v signal but, as already mentioned in post #5, they are not. You would have to open the headlight housing to access the 12V signal.

You need to get the transmission up to temperature before the final fluid check to ensure that it's not overfilled. The minimum temperature for the fluid check is 185 degrees. It will take a very long time to get it up to 185 degrees if you don't drive it. At least that's the case for my 4K...

The BCM fog lamp circuit automatically turns off with high beams. Using that to power your ditch lights would work as you describe. That requires an F-150 headlight switch and FORScan to activate. EDIT: nevermind, I misunderstood what you're wanting. You would still have a separate lighted...

They aren't left and right specific, they're both the same/interchangeable. You must be correct on the window reverse, my XLT doesn't do that.

You can clear the DTCs in the DTC section on the left (DTC in yellow triangle). I can't help you right now with the configurations you want because I don't have the 2025+ reference, but if you don't get help with that from other members, I can try to help you. There are plenty of FORScan...

That is a good video with great data and from great experts in the field. Here is another one with oil analysis data that supports everything we've been talking about recently as well, and also directly supports what I've been saying about warm-up, ring seal, etc:

Where MPG is concerned, in addition to not buying a tire that has more aggressive tread than you need, my suggestion would be to look for a tire that is light in weight for the category that you're interested in. Unsprung weight has a notable impact on efficiency. For instance, in the on-road...

That's odd... I'm still on my Pirellis at 22K miles, but only because I'm cheap and haven't talked myself into trashing them while they still have "good" (relative term) tread. Though there are many things I dislike about them, poor wet traction is not a problem I've encountered.