Have you changed your oil yet? Oil life monitor question.

[al4tay]

Changed my 1st one @ 6000 miles. Used my points- Free

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[al4tay]

I will change my own oil in future
Has anyone made an access panel to eliminate taking the whole panel off.

 

[Jared]

Change your oil every 5k miles if you have a turbo and you want to keep the truck a long time. I like these new cars saying "lifetime transmission fluid!" They dont tell you that their definition of life is 60k miles haha. None of these places are in the business of having reliable cars except maybe Toyota and Honda. THEY WANT YOUR CAR TO BREAK AFTER THE WARRANTY EXPIRES. Use your brain.

 

[Jared]

I will change my own oil in future
Has anyone made an access panel to eliminate taking the whole panel off.

It isnt that hard to remove the undercarriage cover on the FWD Ecoboost, took me 5 minutes. I have heard its a different story on the FX4.

 

[Jah.]

I took my maverick for first oil change to the dealer last Thursday and used my ford points . still have 28100 points available and should be enough for 2 more oil changes . 1600 miles in one year . yeah only 1600 hundred miles and garage kept .

 

[GPSMan]

I always change my oil on a new engine at about 1000 miles. Metal from break in. So clearly not a relic of the past. For those that extend oil changes in the 10K range Yikes I don't want a used car from you.

I've talked to ENGINEERS. Not mechanics. Not shade tree mechanics.

They say you WANT/NEED some metal particles floating around in there during break-in. That's the whole point of break-in. To polish the components.

Do you finish (or refinish) your hardwood floors by using a silk rag? If you are smart, you'd use sandpaper. If you were smart and experienced, you'd start with coarse grain sand paper, then move to medium grit, and graduate to fine grain.

How well are you going to effectively "finish" your engine's components with silky smooth oil?

That first oil change is the coarsest "sandpaper" if you will. That sounds scary, but it is desirable in a new engine. (Not in a "mature" engine of course.)

After hearing from ENGINEERS (ya know, people who went to college for a really long time) AND coupled with UOA reports that say the CHEMISTRY of the oil is fine at long intervals, I am in no hurry to do the first oil change. The particles are NOT of major concern. They are typical. They are normal. They are actually HELPFUL in the first 10,000 miles.

The UOA of a NEW engine is not supposed to look the same as a mature 100,000 mile engine, or a really old 300,000 mile engine.

They just aren't comparable.

And the big rig drivers will say... the oils don't really get "dirty".... the oils really don't "wear out" from a lubrication standpoint, but they do go from being slightly alkaline (you want this) to slightly acidic (you don't want this). Read up on "base number". This is when you should change your oil.... when it turns acidic (or ideally "just" before.... not six months before)... When the base additives are used up. Big rigs routinely go 100,000 miles between full oil changes. Sure, a different beast. But diesel is usually worse on oil than gasoline burners. They can do this by adding new base weekly or monthly.

Exceptions of course but that is the general rule for a properly functioning engine.

Those who changed oil early short-changed the break-in period. Basically you extended the break-in period, and will just see higher metals spread out over more oil changes. Those who wait on the first oil change are just "getting it over with" in the most efficient manner.

Neither method is an engine killer or engine saver. But one is easier on your wallet. One is easier on the environment

YMMV

 

[GPSMan]

That’s not how it works, suspended particulates are not used to polish surfaces smooth in an engine. Bearing surfaces and contact surfaces wear by contact, they are polished before assembly and any suspended particulates are more coarse than their components original finish.

The first oil change is not the “most coarse”. The filter’s characteristics doesn’t change to become coarse, medium and fine, they catch and retain debris larger that their micron rating (unless, they clog and go into bypass)


Wooden floors have nothing to do with breaking in an engine.

.

Well a rough comparison not to be taken literally. And yes metal on metal will do the majority of "polishing" especially in the early days.

But what do you think metal on particle on metal will do?

And filters don't catch and keep everything. I think you know this.

I've polished metal into mirrors. You need grit in your polishing compound.

 

[Johnkn]

Well a rough comparison not to be taken literally. And yes metal on metal will do the majority of "polishing" especially in the early days.

But what do you think metal on particle on metal will do?

And filters don't catch and keep everything. I think you know this.

I deleted my post 30 seconds after posting cause I just don’t want to have the conversation on this forum but see you immediately quoted it, no problem at all.

What does “metal on partial on metal” do? If the debris is being pushed into the polished surfaces it will potentially wear them beyond their factory finish.

Correct, most OTC auto oil filters are in the 20-40 micron range. The finer the media the more crap that gets caught but the more potential for clogging and going into bypass.

Years ago, . The use of break-in oils with fewer friction modifiers allowed for accelerated frictional wear and break-in on contact points, but it needs to be drained and replaced relatively soon. Too much hassle for OEM manufacturers and customers today, so it’s (generally) not used in the commercial market but it’s still available and we still use it in hi-po rebuilds.

I’ve got all the supply’s on the shelf for my first hybrid oil change the first week of January. I’m looking forward to putting my truck up on one of my lifts and taking a good look around.

Take care, I’m really enjoying this truck. I actually purchased it expressly for my 6 annual 1000-mile fishing trips to keep the miles off my other daily drivers.

.

 

[GPSMan]

Well that's where I was headed. More to agree on than disagree. We're not talking about shavings you can pluck out with your fingers. I was referring to those 20-40 micron size. Not all are horrible to have in the system at the start. Everything in moderation.

 

[mavmav]

I deleted my post 30 seconds after posting cause I just don’t want to have the conversation on this forum but see you immediately quoted it, no problem at all.

John, please do not delete your comments. let's listen very carefully to GPSMan advise. Seriously, he talks to reputable ENGINIERS (all capital letters) that graduated from college!
it is brilliant idea to introduce metal during brake-in period. How about upper cylinder.
Do we need to polish metal from the top as well. Do you think pouring a cup of fine sand in air intake will do a good job polishing cylinders? GPSMan, do you think it would be ok to do so during break-in period.? I understand it may not be a good after break-in period once an engine is polished... Some fine metal or fine California sand perhaps?
Please continue advising us. I love all your comments. You are the man! YOU are the GPSman with capital GPS letters.

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