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Oil Changes Are Easy (with photos and explanation)

MavDave

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For the past 12 years or so I have rum Amsoil in all of my vehicles. 2 WRXs and a Matrix I'm currently selling. Based on the documentation from my Amsoil rep I've always changed once per year or at 15k mile intervals. These oil change intervals do not void any new manufacturers warranties as long as their kept to schedule. I was super skeptical so on my first oil change with 14500 miles I had a basic Blackstone teat performed. The result surprised me the overall condition of the oil was better than new conventional oil. That's what sold me. I will change the factory oil at 5k and do the Amsoil with their filter (WIX) unless I see in the manual that they recommend doing the first oil change earlier.
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Deerslayer1980

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Did you re-install the plastic piece by the drain hole or leave it off? What exactly is that plastic piece for? It's just oddly shaped to be a cover.
 

TC in MN

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My maverick is a XLT 2.0 Ecoboost with FX4 and 4K Tow. A couple of things I do differently as I am on my fourth oil change. I changed my oil at 1,000 then on the 4,000s. I am close to 12,000 miles now and will do another oil change this weekend. After watching a Ford mechanic (Ford Boss Me on Youtube) warning ecoboost owners never to go over 5,000 miles, I decided to change my oil every 4,000 miles. Also I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and I try to use the Motorcraft Filter but lately Walmart has been out of stock. I am using a Fram Ultra Synthetic now and have one for this weekend. I take off the main skid plate; which hasn't been a problem just a bit more work. I have ramps but still have to transition with a couple of pieces of 2x6s so the front rubber skirts don't rub on the ramps. ALSO and this I learned from the videos to prime the oil filter by cranking the engine in "Flood Clear" mode for 15 to 20 seconds; this helps prevent wear/damage upon start up by getting the oil pressure up. This is easy, as all you need to do is push the accelerator down fully before starting to crank. The computer will not let it fire (and I suspect turns off the fuel pump). Then (after 15 seconds or so) just let off the accelerator and it will fire right up.
Is the “flood clean” mode just after an oil change or can it this mode be used at every start?
 
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SlingerRing

SlingerRing

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Clubs
 
Did you re-install the plastic piece by the drain hole or leave it off? What exactly is that plastic piece for? It's just oddly shaped to be a cover.
Reinstalled. Not privy to the EXACT reason for the odd shape, but I do know that it makes a very nice hand hold for removal and replacement.
 

machgman

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Unless you like to tinker with cars, why are you doing your own oil changes? Aren’t you getting Free oil changes for life at your dealer ?
With ALL of the consumer reporting that the actual "FREE" lifetime oil changes are done haphazardly, poorly, and with the wrong oil and not changing out the oil filter, the question comes down to how trusting and/or lazy are you to trust your precious vehicle to a dealer who ONLY MAKES money if your vehicle needs real repair?
After decades of poorly performed "free" maintenance by dealer service centers who have no profit motive in "free," I refuse to take those chances, especially when changing oil and filter are so easy to do yourself. The peace of mind drastically outweighs the dumb concept of "free" for those who think things through.
 

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NJ Pinelands

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With ALL of the consumer reporting that the actual "FREE" lifetime oil changes are done haphazardly, poorly, and with the wrong oil and not changing out the oil filter, the question comes down to how trusting and/or lazy are you to trust your precious vehicle to a dealer who ONLY MAKES money if your vehicle needs real repair?
After decades of poorly performed "free" maintenance by dealer service centers who have no profit motive in "free," I refuse to take those chances, especially when changing oil and filter are so easy to do yourself. The peace of mind drastically outweighs the dumb concept of "free" for those who think things through.
I will still stick with Free. The dealer I go to has been around for about 70 years and the family now owns about 8 different dealerships across many car companies. They would have to be crazy to be risking a small empire like that by skimping on oil changes. You are certainly entitled to a different opinion.
 

machgman

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I will still stick with Free. The dealer I go to has been around for about 70 years and the family now owns about 8 different dealerships across many car companies. They would have to be crazy to be risking a small empire like that by skimping on oil changes. You are certainly entitled to a different opinion.
That certainly is your choice and prerogative, but even decent dealers cannot completely control their mechanics, good or bad. YOU are the only one who can ensure your oil change for your precious vehicle is done completely correct. If you are open minded, take a gander at this video by Scotty Kilmer (). If and when you get exploited, please remember this "I told you so, but you refused to listen."
 

Dubhlaine

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This procedure is for the 2.0 ecos with FX4 skidplates. I've seen several threads and videos on doing the oil change on the FX4 Mavs, but all of them seemed like to much work. Lots of confusion out there and I'm here to try and dispel some notions (specifically about the skid plates) to make life a little easier. I'm including a couple of photos from my own oil change + some photos from others around this site for reference.

So, my first oil change: 6,000 miles. I do 90% highway driving/commuting. The intelligent oil-life monitored still said I had about 4,000 miles to go, but my mechanical spidey sense was tingling to much and decided to go ahead and put in some work.

FIRST, there are two skid plates and ONLY THE SMALLEST ONE UNDER THE BUMPER NEEDS TO BE REMOVED. There's 2 1/2 hex heads that require removal, no loctite. There's also 5ish torx bit fasteners that must be removed, I was able to remove them easily by hand alone. Once removed, the filter is easily accessed. I removed mine using a specialty filter socket (see photos). The filter stud is really long (took a lot of turns to remove) and ,from the factory, the filter was on SUPER tight for me. My socket actually punctured the filter. No bother. I stuck some shop towels directly underneath the filter and wrenched it off.

SECOND, the larger skid plate has an access cover in it for the drain plug. Only this plastic cover needs to be removed. One can do this simply by inserting a flat-head driver and carefully manipulating the retention tabs to take the cover out. The plug is offset, (see photos) but don't be concerned, there isn't a need for a diverter or anything. The drain plug is a 5/8ths hex head. Oil drained without getting on top of the skidplate. There was some light cleanup, but that was from me getting my fingers in the way.

Oil was darkish, but not green colored like the video from BlakesCars from Youtube. I did smell some gasoline, but it wasn't bad at all. I probably could have gone a few thousand miles more like the oil life monitor estimated.

So, no need to muscle with the larger skid plate. Those have loctite for a reason. To be honest, if one simply had a breaker bar, the blue loctite wouldn't pose much trouble at all. Even taking off the large plate wouldn't be a large inconvenience. The 3 photos showing the small panel, filter, and plug are not mine. The two of the oil draining and the socket are OC. Hope this helps. 5.5 quarts of oil. Motorcraft 5W-30. Synthetic Blend. Motorcraft Filter FL-910S.

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Many thanks SlingerRing, as I am getting ready to do my first Oil change XLT FX4 the amount of misinformation and bad how to videos on mav oil changes this is a welcomed thread. Thanks again. John
 

Ron43

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Rotate your tire’s every oil change as well.
 
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MaverickTopGun

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............ I learned from the videos to prime the oil filter by cranking the engine in "Flood Clear" mode for 15 to 20 seconds; this helps prevent wear/damage upon start up by getting the oil pressure up. This is easy, as all you need to do is push the accelerator down fully before starting to crank. The computer will not let it fire (and I suspect turns off the fuel pump). Then (after 15 seconds or so) just let off the accelerator and it will fire right up.
Is the “flood clean” mode just after an oil change or can it this mode be used at every start?
Wait, the engine is STILL moving inside, scraping metal-to-metal during cranking, during this "Clear Flood Mode". Oil pressure builds relatively slowly while cranking.

Some parts (rings, crank bearings) have a little oily coating all the time, so they are probably always OK, but the cam lobes are bone dry, even during this cranking procedure.

Best to pre-fill the oil filter, and then maybe there is a tad bit of benefit to using this "Clear Flood Mode" method to crank a little bit. Minimal benefit if any.

Starting the engine normally gets the oil pump pumping hard right away, so oil is speeding down the galleys quickly anyway.
 
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MaverRick

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I am currently at 3300 miles and will be doing my first oil change soon. Looks like there wont be enough room to remove the filter with my current tool? Looking for a recommendation for a socket type removal tool. I watched a youtube video and the tool he used didn’t work which resulted in having to rip it off with some pliers!!
 

OleFordGuy

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I am currently at 3300 miles and will be doing my first oil change soon. Looks like there wont be enough room to remove the filter with my current tool? Looking for a recommendation for a socket type removal tool. I watched a youtube video and the tool he used didn’t work which resulted in having to rip it off with some pliers!!
Oil Filter Wrench Tool Size = 76mm 14 Flutes
3/8 Drive Socket Wrench
3/8 Drive Socket Wrench Extension
15mm Socket for Oil Drain Plug
13mm Socket for Under Engine Cover
T-30 Torx Bit for Under Engine Cover
Oil Drain Pan
Ramps
Jack Stands

I finally found the oil filter wrench that worked at Advanced Auto, the other stores had similar but they would be like 14-15 flutes which would slip. The 76mm 14 Flutes is what you want IMO.

I posted my maintenance items list on a different thread here: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/tools-needed-for-an-oil-change.10296/#post-496136
 
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MaverRick

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Oil Filter Wrench Tool Size = 76mm 14 Flutes
3/8 Drive Socket Wrench
3/8 Drive Socket Wrench Extension
15mm Socket for Oil Drain Plug
13mm Socket for Under Engine Cover
T-30 Torx Bit for Under Engine Cover
Oil Drain Pan
Ramps
Jack Stands

I finally found the oil filter wrench that worked at Advanced Auto, the other stores had similar but they would be like 14-15 flutes which would slip. The 76mm 14 Flutes is what you want IMO.

I posted my maintenance items list on a different thread here: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/tools-needed-for-an-oil-change.10296/#post-496136
Thanks for the info! I purchased the one from Advanced auto ( end cap 76 x 14 )
 

MaverRick

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Completed my first Maverick FX4 Oil change today and it was easier than I expected! The filter was only on hand tight. Just had to remove 8 T27 torx screws and 2 13mm bolts to remove the front skid plate to reach the filter. Then moved the plastic scoop over to access the drain plug. Mileage currently at 3600.
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