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This procedure is for the 2.0 ecos with FX4 skidplates. I've seen several threads and videos on doing the oil change on the FX4 Mavs, but all of them seemed like to much work. Lots of confusion out there and I'm here to try and dispel some notions (specifically about the skid plates) to make life a little easier. I'm including a couple of photos from my own oil change + some photos from others around this site for reference.
So, my first oil change: 6,000 miles. I do 90% highway driving/commuting. The intelligent oil-life monitored still said I had about 4,000 miles to go, but my mechanical spidey sense was tingling to much and decided to go ahead and put in some work.
FIRST, there are two skid plates and ONLY THE SMALLEST ONE UNDER THE BUMPER NEEDS TO BE REMOVED. There's 2 1/2 hex heads that require removal, no loctite. There's also 5ish torx bit fasteners that must be removed, I was able to remove them easily by hand alone. Once removed, the filter is easily accessed. I removed mine using a specialty filter socket (see photos). The filter stud is really long (took a lot of turns to remove) and ,from the factory, the filter was on SUPER tight for me. My socket actually punctured the filter. No bother. I stuck some shop towels directly underneath the filter and wrenched it off.
SECOND, the larger skid plate has an access cover in it for the drain plug. Only this plastic cover needs to be removed. One can do this simply by inserting a flat-head driver and carefully manipulating the retention tabs to take the cover out. The plug is offset, (see photos) but don't be concerned, there isn't a need for a diverter or anything. The drain plug is a 5/8ths hex head. Oil drained without getting on top of the skidplate. There was some light cleanup, but that was from me getting my fingers in the way.
Oil was darkish, but not green colored like the video from BlakesCars from Youtube. I did smell some gasoline, but it wasn't bad at all. I probably could have gone a few thousand miles more like the oil life monitor estimated.
So, no need to muscle with the larger skid plate. Those have loctite for a reason. To be honest, if one simply had a breaker bar, the blue loctite wouldn't pose much trouble at all. Even taking off the large plate wouldn't be a large inconvenience. The 3 photos showing the small panel, filter, and plug are not mine. The two of the oil draining and the socket are OC. Hope this helps. 5.5 quarts of oil. Motorcraft 5W-30. Synthetic Blend. Motorcraft Filter FL-910S.
So, my first oil change: 6,000 miles. I do 90% highway driving/commuting. The intelligent oil-life monitored still said I had about 4,000 miles to go, but my mechanical spidey sense was tingling to much and decided to go ahead and put in some work.
FIRST, there are two skid plates and ONLY THE SMALLEST ONE UNDER THE BUMPER NEEDS TO BE REMOVED. There's 2 1/2 hex heads that require removal, no loctite. There's also 5ish torx bit fasteners that must be removed, I was able to remove them easily by hand alone. Once removed, the filter is easily accessed. I removed mine using a specialty filter socket (see photos). The filter stud is really long (took a lot of turns to remove) and ,from the factory, the filter was on SUPER tight for me. My socket actually punctured the filter. No bother. I stuck some shop towels directly underneath the filter and wrenched it off.
SECOND, the larger skid plate has an access cover in it for the drain plug. Only this plastic cover needs to be removed. One can do this simply by inserting a flat-head driver and carefully manipulating the retention tabs to take the cover out. The plug is offset, (see photos) but don't be concerned, there isn't a need for a diverter or anything. The drain plug is a 5/8ths hex head. Oil drained without getting on top of the skidplate. There was some light cleanup, but that was from me getting my fingers in the way.
Oil was darkish, but not green colored like the video from BlakesCars from Youtube. I did smell some gasoline, but it wasn't bad at all. I probably could have gone a few thousand miles more like the oil life monitor estimated.
So, no need to muscle with the larger skid plate. Those have loctite for a reason. To be honest, if one simply had a breaker bar, the blue loctite wouldn't pose much trouble at all. Even taking off the large plate wouldn't be a large inconvenience. The 3 photos showing the small panel, filter, and plug are not mine. The two of the oil draining and the socket are OC. Hope this helps. 5.5 quarts of oil. Motorcraft 5W-30. Synthetic Blend. Motorcraft Filter FL-910S.
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