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GPSMan

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This sounds like you need a software update or your Battery management system needs a reset.
Wait a sec. Back up a minute.

If the actual terminal posts of the battery are 14.7 v all day long (they are in mine with key on) and then the terminal posts are 11.9 to 12.1 immediately with the key off (it is)....

What does "software" have to do with anything in this case???
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Darnon

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The 12v furnishes the current to charge a capacitor as needed to put the same voltage on the negative side of the contactors as the SOC of HVB to prevent arcing when it furnishes current to close the contactor so the HVB can supply the 3 phase current for the starter generator to start the ice.
Not quite. The 12V powers the computers to command and the coil to close the pre-charge contactor, but it's still actual current from the HV battery (through a resistor) that fills the precharge capacitor so the primary contactors can then be closed. They aren't boosting the 12V to precharge the capacitors directly as your description suggests.
 

Gullzway

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^^

OP here. I've had infant mortality issues with 3-4 Motorcraft batteries in new vehicles. The battery in my Maverick, my Wife's Platinum Explorer, my Platinum Expedition and I think even my Raptor failed within ~1 year and I replaced them. I've had other Motorcraft batteries in new vehicles that have lasted 6+ years. My experience is that if they last a year they are GTG for a long time. I wanted that brand out of my Maverick's equation and is why I installed a DieHard in post #1 here. It resolved my Maverick's issues, it may or may not resolve others....

Good luck...
Picked up the Duralast Gold T4 today. Installed and reset the BMS. Hopefully this solves the Deep Sleep for me!

$191 at Advanced Auto. Online showed $215 and in-store showed $225. I asked about the difference, and they applied a 15% off discount, not complaining.
 

GPSMan

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Picked up the Duralast Gold T4 today. Installed and reset the BMS. Hopefully this solves the Deep Sleep for me!

$191 at Advanced Auto. Online showed $215 and in-store showed $225. I asked about the difference, and they applied a 15% off discount, not complaining.
I'm probably going to take this step soon.
I put about 4AH of manual charge into my original tonight. Will see if that makes any difference in the morning.

Left to it's own, it was about 12.1 / 12.2 after the commute home and about 11.9 the next morning. Tonight I put it to bed at 12.8 after an hour on the wall charger. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

Bigbill27

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I tried that 6+ times on mine, it had zero effect (on mine)....

.
It didn’t work when I reset it either. I think it has to be done at the dealer using their laptop.
 

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Bigbill27

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Wait a sec. Back up a minute.

If the actual terminal posts of the battery are 14.7 v all day long (they are in mine with key on) and then the terminal posts are 11.9 to 12.1 immediately with the key off (it is)....

What does "software" have to do with anything in this case???
I don’t know. I am only passing on what the dealer told me. All I know is that my truck was doing exactly what yours is doing and after taking it to them, it is not doing it anymore. The update had something to do with the battery management system.
 

GPSMan

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I don't know how much more proof my dealership (Ford) needs. But here it is.

AFTER a 40 minute drive as soon as I got home, like less than 5 minutes after I turned the key off I attached a 6 amp charger. And my stock battery took nearly 6 amps. 52 minutes later the charge rate tapered and the battery was considered 100% and was testing at 12.84 volts no load.

Just sat 14 hours (over night). 14 hours later, 12.07 volts no load.

Ford Maverick Hybrid +12V Battery Replacement 9919FED9-0764-4748-B051-E09E2C1F6797


After 52 minutes:
Ford Maverick Hybrid +12V Battery Replacement AA60753F-1AD8-4568-BFF0-CE7836D59F94

Ford Maverick Hybrid +12V Battery Replacement 286476A6-2513-4C94-A501-7732D7E334E2


After sitting 14 hours, next morning:
Ford Maverick Hybrid +12V Battery Replacement A44A1A79-7B57-491D-B039-CA99DC3B357E
 
OP
OP

Johnkn

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It didn’t work when I reset it either. I think it has to be done at the dealer using their laptop.
The reset procedure can be easily done by the owner and takes 60 seconds (then let it sit locked and untouched), it’s in the Owner’s Manual... (y)

.
 

clavicus

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I don't know how much more proof my dealership (Ford) needs. But here it is.

AFTER a 40 minute drive as soon as I got home, like less than 5 minutes after I turned the key off I attached a 6 amp charger. And my stock battery took nearly 6 amps. 52 minutes later the charge rate tapered and the battery was considered 100% and was testing at 12.84 volts no load.

Just sat 14 hours (over night). 14 hours later, 12.07 volts no load.

9919FED9-0764-4748-B051-E09E2C1F6797.jpeg


After 52 minutes:
AA60753F-1AD8-4568-BFF0-CE7836D59F94.jpeg

286476A6-2513-4C94-A501-7732D7E334E2.jpeg


After sitting 14 hours, next morning:
A44A1A79-7B57-491D-B039-CA99DC3B357E.jpeg
If you care to test, I recall others saying they disabled telematics/modem in system settings, and they did not experience significant battery drain. Maybe that test can narrow down if that’s what’s sucking your battery down to deep sleep levels and keeping it there? I guess that would possibly be a different issue than the failure of the system to charge the battery correctly in the first place?
 

GPSMan

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If you care to test, I recall others saying they disabled telematics/modem in system settings, and they did not experience significant battery drain. Maybe that test can narrow down if that’s what’s sucking your battery down to deep sleep levels and keeping it there? I guess that would possibly be a different issue than the failure of the system to charge the battery correctly in the first place?
Thanks. Disabled all that months ago.
 
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9 weeks since battery swap with 1 incident.

Went out of town for a week long work trip. Came home and encountered the tell tale sign of no interior lights. Drove the truck for some errands and all seems well again.
Any more issues?
 

MakinDoForNow

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Thanks for continuing to update. The 12 month update is the one I’m looking forward to the most. At that point I will consider this the fix if there are no issues.
The potential issue is essentially apparently the almost continual use of the 12v making it very difficult for any bms to 100% fully charge battery and have it rest there. If the 12v is 99.9% charged, most likely less, sulfation will gradually build until battery it will charge to 12.1 or more volts and when a load is placed on it voltage will rapidly fall as there is little capacity. I went through this with a 2012 H Crv that would eat a battery in 26-34 months. I finally woke up and started every three to four months putting a 5amp smart charger maintainer on for three to five days. That battery lasted 64 months. So far I have not placed a maintainer on my hybrid first edition and have had no sleeping. I did have my cable overlay TSB done ten days ago and truck seems to a little peppier/better (??) Maybe they updated software. I have had my hybrid since 3/9/22 18,nnn miles on 8/4/23. Has sat for 4 days at most usually one or two.
 

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when Mav is ready for a new battery….can I change to a battery with more cold cranking ap s like 525?
 

Hdang1980

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Any more issues?
Yep. It's reverted back to no interior lights about a month ago. I've given up on doing anything else on my end. I figure the next step is to have the dealer figure it out with the CSP that was released a few months ago in addition to getting the air bag and whatever else recalls I can't think of at the moment.
 

GPSMan

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Hybrid does not need cranking amps.
The 220 volt battery cranks the engine.

I put a plug-in charger on mine.
It seemed to keep the battery a little higher voltage for 1-2 days. Then back to normal. Normal for me is 11.9 to 12.1 each and every morning.

Dealer (Ford) won't replace the battery as long as the truck starts. Their take is it still serves it's intended purpose.

🤬

Okay. It's 10 months old. No way this battery is lasting 3/36k. They are getting me a new battery sooner or later. Waiting game.....
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