Dead Hybrid (round 2) Clarification

[Scupking]

You guys should all check out page 8 of this thread:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...n-after-wire-harness-replacement.25593/page-8

Watch BOTH videos in my post, particularly the second one. I’d bet anything many or all of you have the bad battery cable terminal at the fuse block. That connection being loose could definitely cause the behaviors you guys are seeing. Deep sleep, no start, intermittent failures.

Mine definitely charges. If I let mine sit an hour in the drive way (on) it won't go into deep sleep for about a week. Or after I drive it a bunch (even a lot of little trips in a day) it seems to charge it for a little. Something is draining the 12v or it's a bad 12v.

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[djb_rh]

Mine definitely charges. If I let mine sit an hour in the drive way (on) it won't go into deep sleep for about a week. Or after I drive it a bunch (even a lot of little trips in a day) it seems to charge it for a little. Something is draining the 12v or it's a bad 12v.

Definitely possible it’s something else, but I’m telling you I’ve seen this kind of bad connection cause ALL kinds of weird issues, and it’s a very common problem. They had a VERY bad process for soldering these, and any fairly good but still intermittent connection could be causing your truck to do all sorts of funky things to *cause* the parasitic draw.

It’s a pretty easy fix if you have the big crimper or are willing to do one of the set-screw type fittings instead like is also detailed in that other thread I linked. And put it this way: my truck isn’t exhibiting any of this behavior but is a very early build and I’ve now got plans to replace the Ford fitting before it has a chance to leave me stranded. Partly because I have a habit of locking my key *in* my truck because I don’t like carrying it around if I don’t have to and I love the keypad. But if this happens while my key is locked in my truck, I’m *really* stuck.

 

[BlueSpec1]

Wondering what gauge the wire is that has the problem lug and the stud size, M10?
If I had to I'd use the hydraulic crimped lugs.
I have a few Panduit 90° lugs for 1/0 with 3/8" stud on my backup batteries.

 

[djb_rh]

Wondering what gauge the wire is that has the problem lug and the stud size, M10?
If I had to I'd use the hydraulic crimped lugs.
I have a few Panduit 90° lugs for 1/0 with 3/8" stud on my backup batteries.

Not sure. Was gonna go look up the parts that mechanic used from his video to see what gauges they were for and what the hole size was, but haven’t done it yet. Shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

 

[BlueSpec1]

Not sure. Was gonna go look up the parts that mechanic used from his video to see what gauges they were for and what the hole size was, but haven’t done it yet. Shouldn’t be too hard to figure out.

I paused his video & squinted, looks like 3/8 stud, 1/0 Copper Lugs he used.

 

[Johnkn]

That series of videos is ~8 months old here. Multiple threads here of those who had the entire harness replaced but continue to experience the deep sleep and/or no start issue..

Also discussed is that it’s not generally advisable to put a CU terminal on an AL cable...

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[Jonny44]

It's not an AGM. And also it's not useful testing a battery that isn't fully charged.

No, it isn't AGM. It's a lead and plastic plate garbage battery. Still only sitting at 61% capacity (topping out at 238 amps) after charging for over 2 days at 10 amps/hr. After giving it a full charge (and not turning the car on) I still get the deep sleep messages.

 

[Gullzway]

Just a note that after that section in the manual that shows how to reset the BMS, there is the following paragraph:

After battery replacement, or in some cases after charging the battery with an external charger, the battery management system requires eight hours of vehicle sleep time to relearn the battery state of charge. During this time, your vehicle must remain fully locked with the ignition switched off.​

So be sure you do this when you are done for the evening, so it can sit the full 8 hours. (And don't forget to lock the doors, even though many of us don't normally do that when we park in our garages...)

I don't remember if mine sat for 8 hours after resetting the BMS, but I definitely did Not lock the doors.

Almost a month now and haven't gotten the Deep Sleep message though, so that's good.

 

[JimParker256]

I don't remember if mine sat for 8 hours after resetting the BMS, but I definitely did Not lock the doors.

Almost a month now and haven't gotten the Deep Sleep message though, so that's good.

Yeah, I kind of wondered about that 8-hour thing when I read the wording "in some cases"... And I couldn't imagine what locking the doors would have to do with it?

Glad to hear your Maverick is no longer sleepy!

 

[Jonny44]

No, it isn't AGM. It's a lead and plastic plate garbage battery. Still only sitting at 61% capacity (topping out at 238 amps) after charging for over 2 days at 10 amps/hr. After giving it a full charge (and not turning the car on) I still get the deep sleep messages.

Battery replaced under warranty and wiring harness repaired. All happy again!

 

[Wire4money]

That series of videos is ~8 months old here. Multiple threads here of those who had the entire harness replaced but continue to experience the deep sleep and/or no start issue..

Also discussed is that it’s not generally advisable to put a CU terminal on an AL cable...

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It’s not aluminum. It’s tinned copper.

 

[Darnon]

It’s not aluminum. It’s tinned copper.

There's been arguments that it's one or the other. No one has provided particularly conclusive proof beyond their own word as to the material. Would be good if someone cutting the cable could get a macro shot of the cut end or flame tested it. A main power cable being aluminum sounds strange to me as a mechanic, but then I've seen OEMs do strange stuff.

 

[Johnkn]

There's been arguments that it's one or the other. No one has provided particularly conclusive proof beyond their own word as to the material. Would be good if someone cutting the cable could get a macro shot of the cut end or flame tested it. A main power cable being aluminum sounds strange to me as a mechanic, but then I've seen OEMs do strange stuff.

yep, and irrespective of whether the cable is aluminum or tinned copper, it's generally not advisable to attach a connector that's dissimilar.

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[AznMav]

Feel like cars built during the pandemic or have parts supplied during the pandemic have issues.

 

[Chris_G]

Feel like cars built during the pandemic or have parts supplied during the pandemic have issues.

I think this may be the new "norm".

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