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Note: this is for a Ford Maverick 2.0 2024 XL
I am no mechanic by any means, but I can follow instructions and I'm moderately handy. Thought I'd document my experience with a brake problem that I had, the Ford dealership and the subsequent repair. Bits and pieces may help someone else, or you could just use it as an opportunity to tell me all the things I've done wrong
Problem
Ok, so first thing - at around 15k miles I ran into a problem - the steering wheel and brake pedal were vibrating when I was decelerating from over 60 mph, down through 50mph and 40mph. I thought - ok, one more rotors are probably shot.
Ford Dealership
I got in for a routine oil change and tire rotation. I thought I'd combine it with a resolution of the brakes problem.
The gist of our interaction was:
Not to be taken as an advertisement of any specific brand or a store chain, but in addition to the tools I already had, I purchased:
I got myself a complete PowerStop K8940 kit (front and rear), which to my understanding is a premium tier. I got them from a popular online warehouse for less then $300, plus tax and shipping. Which is about 30% cheaper than getting them from popular retailers. And possibly around 50-100% cheaper than getting them from a repair shop.
So for the amount of money Ford quoted me for economy rear brakes, I got myself premium brakes front and rear, plus the tools.
Specs
Libraries in the USA have subscription to ALLDATA. All you have to do is get on one of their computers or connect to their local WiFi. I printed off all the relevant (torque) specs and procedures. That's gold.
Specifically for Ford Maverick 2024 XL AWD EcoBost the specs are:
The brake job
I am not going to quote the procedure itself, step by step, as it likely varies for different years and trims. You just follow the process described in ALLDATA for your vehicle, to disassemble, and reverse it, to assemble. I will only call out the "interesting" parts and caveats.
Due to my inexperience with that particular repair, what was supposed to be a 2 hour job turned into an 8 hour job.
In somewhat chronological order ...
Brake maintenance mode
It is actually mandatory not just for the rear, but also for the front as well. Otherwise the system may detect something being wrong with your brakes (leak, etc) and freak out. The process is simple and well documented, if you take it from the right source. I think a lot of people might be doing it wrong, and think that their truck is having an issue with entering maintenance mode. Listen for the retraction of the mechanism, it's very audible! And on the rears, you can't use a C-Clamp, because that would pinch the electronics.
The use of impact wrench
IMO totally unnecessary. First off, the torque (150 lb-ft) on the wheel lugs make it impossible for my cheap impact wrench to undo, at least not without damaging the lug nuts. I just used a breaker bar. And for the tightening, you're not supposed to use impact wrench anyway.
Lifting the vehicle off the ground
Vehicle in Park. Wheel chocks, or various lumber cuttings, whatever you have.
As you know, on those vehicles there's something called pinch welds. And there's a molded arrow pointing you at where you're supposed to place the jack stand. The thing is - you can't place a floor jack AND a jack stand at the exact same spot, obviously. But those pinch welds actually run wide. The arrows, in my opinion, are more for symmetry and balance, when you lift both sides (as you should). So when lifting the front, placing the floor stand a bit to the rear, just enough to place the stand next to it (to the front, where the actual arrow is) is totally fine.
I've mentioned "adapters" in the list of parts and tools. I mean this:
(they are available on Amazon)
The ones on the left go on the jack stands, the right one goes on the floor jack. If you use jack stands or a floor jack without the rubber adapter, you may damage your vehicle.
Making room
You most definitely can grab an (old) rotor, while still attached, and turn it towards you, to make more room to work on the brake mechanism. This won't lock the steering wheel and won't break anything. If you touch the braking surface of the new rotor, make sure you wipe it off with a cleaner.
Disconnecting hoses and Brake bleeding
The ALLDATA procedure calls for detaching the hose, and subsequently bleeding. No need to do that, IMO. Just make sure you don't twist the hose, and don't let the caliper hang by it! I find hanging the caliper on the suspension convenient.
Disassembling the brake caliper anchor plate (mounting bracket)
It's held in by the two anchor plate bolts. The only thing worth calling out is - don't let that fall on the ground. It would, if you're not holding it.
The anchor plate bolts
If you read the manual, you'd see you're supposed to throw away the anchor plate bolts and install new ones. I would, if I had the OEM ones, but I didn't get them. Those bolts are not true TTY bolts, they don't twist. So as long as you clean off the old Loctite (seems to be red) from them and apply blue one, you should be fine. One thing that's puzzling me a little is that applying blue Loctite would result actually in a higher torque, because it would be a "wet" torque now, and not a "dry" one anymore. Anyway...
Pushing pistons in
The tool makes it easy and hassle free. Of course don't use the tool directly against the piston, place a used brake pad in between them. The trick is to do it slowly and in steps. It's also a good idea to open the brake tank cap, to alleviate pressure. However, don't forget to close it as soon as you're done, as that takes in moisture from the air quickly. And while you're pushing in small increments, watch the level of the fluid, as it would rise. You don't want that tank overflowing, brake fluid strips car paint. If the tank is at MAX before you even start replacing old brake pads, someone must have topped it off. You may need to siphon a bit off. I haven't done the rear yet, but I know for a fact that you don't need to twist/turn, as you push in, as long as you've entered brake maintenance mode. Stop pushing the pistons in when you start feeling resistance.
This is what the caliper tool looks like:
Getting the rotor(s) off
I spent 2 hours on the first one. It was totally stuck and nothing would move it. Tip: if you're going to be smacking the rotor face with a rubber hammer, or the hub itself with an iron hammer, put on the lug nuts to protect the bolt threads, in case you hit them by accident.
Then I sprayed the rotor with WD-40 and after 15min it was off. The other side I did in advance and by the time I was done with the bracket, it was already sliding off on its own. On that note, keep one or two lug nuts in, to avoid letting the rotor accidentally fly off.
Upon visual inspection, I have to say my old rotors looked "brand new". Of course, the lateral runout is impossible to detect by touch or look, but I am fairly certain it was there, as confirmed by the results (see below). I should have spent a bit of money on a tool to measure it, just to know HOW bad was it, but oh well.
Bushings
The brake kit usually comes with "hardware" - the rubber bushings. While you're at it, you should replace them, especially if your brakes have made it to higher mileage on them. My understanding of the repair process and diagrams is that the ones in the rear, opposite side of the bleeder, are especially important to replace. Try not to rip the bushings while installing them. The documentation calls for a socket to be used, tp push them in. Outside lubrication (brake grease) is important and helps too.
Cleaning, grease, anti-seize
There are basically 3 compounds that get used during the procedure:
The result
After the vehicle came back together, there was the break in procedure for the brand that I've purchased. It's very specific and ensures top performance and longevity of the system.
Lo and behold, by just replacing the front brakes, the steering wheel vibration is gone. So I disagree with Ford's finding that the issue is in the rear and I would have spent $750+ on just the rear, only to find out I'd also have to do the front. In sum, it would have been more than $1500, I assume.
I am yet to do the rear, since I already have the parts and I feel a very light vibration in the brake pedal. So I think both - front and rear were shot. My impression so far is that Ford has put in really cheap brakes and tires on this truck. While I am pissed at having to spend time and money on that, I don't mind upgrading it.
And some photos
I am no mechanic by any means, but I can follow instructions and I'm moderately handy. Thought I'd document my experience with a brake problem that I had, the Ford dealership and the subsequent repair. Bits and pieces may help someone else, or you could just use it as an opportunity to tell me all the things I've done wrong
Problem
Ok, so first thing - at around 15k miles I ran into a problem - the steering wheel and brake pedal were vibrating when I was decelerating from over 60 mph, down through 50mph and 40mph. I thought - ok, one more rotors are probably shot.
Ford Dealership
I got in for a routine oil change and tire rotation. I thought I'd combine it with a resolution of the brakes problem.
The gist of our interaction was:
- Ford: "Ok, for $250 we will take a look"
- Me: "But I just paid for 'The Works' package, surely it covers enough for you to be at least able to tell me what's wrong"
- Ford Mechanic: "Ok, I took it for a ride, it's the rear rotors"
- Me: "What about warranty?"
- Ford: "Sorry mate, wearable parts and all..."
- (keep in mind the vehicle is barely year and a half old, 15-20k miles)
- Ford: "But for $750 we will put another set of bottom tier brakes in the rear"
- Me: no thanks
Not to be taken as an advertisement of any specific brand or a store chain, but in addition to the tools I already had, I purchased:
- Jack stands
- Floor jack
- Impact wrench (turned out I don't need it)
- Metric impact socket set
- Loctite (for the anchor plate bolts, we'll get to that)
- Jack stand pads + floor jack adapters
- Brake caliper piston tool (costs the same as a C-Clamp, but you can't use a C-Clamp on the rear)
- 3/8" Drive Hex Bit Metric Socket 7mm (for the guide pins)
- Brake cleaner
- Bigger torque wrench
I got myself a complete PowerStop K8940 kit (front and rear), which to my understanding is a premium tier. I got them from a popular online warehouse for less then $300, plus tax and shipping. Which is about 30% cheaper than getting them from popular retailers. And possibly around 50-100% cheaper than getting them from a repair shop.
So for the amount of money Ford quoted me for economy rear brakes, I got myself premium brakes front and rear, plus the tools.
Specs
Libraries in the USA have subscription to ALLDATA. All you have to do is get on one of their computers or connect to their local WiFi. I printed off all the relevant (torque) specs and procedures. That's gold.
Specifically for Ford Maverick 2024 XL AWD EcoBost the specs are:
- Front Brake Caliper Bolt Torque
- Guide Pins - 21 lb-ft
- Anchor Plate Bolts - 81 lb-ft ("do not reuse bolts")
- Rear Brake Caliper Bolt Torque
- Guide Pins - 21 lb-ft
- Anchor Plate Bolts - 46 lb-ft ("do not reuse bolts")
- Wheels
- Wheel Lug Nut Torque - 150 lb-ft
The brake job
I am not going to quote the procedure itself, step by step, as it likely varies for different years and trims. You just follow the process described in ALLDATA for your vehicle, to disassemble, and reverse it, to assemble. I will only call out the "interesting" parts and caveats.
Due to my inexperience with that particular repair, what was supposed to be a 2 hour job turned into an 8 hour job.
In somewhat chronological order ...
Brake maintenance mode
It is actually mandatory not just for the rear, but also for the front as well. Otherwise the system may detect something being wrong with your brakes (leak, etc) and freak out. The process is simple and well documented, if you take it from the right source. I think a lot of people might be doing it wrong, and think that their truck is having an issue with entering maintenance mode. Listen for the retraction of the mechanism, it's very audible! And on the rears, you can't use a C-Clamp, because that would pinch the electronics.
The use of impact wrench
IMO totally unnecessary. First off, the torque (150 lb-ft) on the wheel lugs make it impossible for my cheap impact wrench to undo, at least not without damaging the lug nuts. I just used a breaker bar. And for the tightening, you're not supposed to use impact wrench anyway.
Lifting the vehicle off the ground
Vehicle in Park. Wheel chocks, or various lumber cuttings, whatever you have.
As you know, on those vehicles there's something called pinch welds. And there's a molded arrow pointing you at where you're supposed to place the jack stand. The thing is - you can't place a floor jack AND a jack stand at the exact same spot, obviously. But those pinch welds actually run wide. The arrows, in my opinion, are more for symmetry and balance, when you lift both sides (as you should). So when lifting the front, placing the floor stand a bit to the rear, just enough to place the stand next to it (to the front, where the actual arrow is) is totally fine.
I've mentioned "adapters" in the list of parts and tools. I mean this:
(they are available on Amazon)
The ones on the left go on the jack stands, the right one goes on the floor jack. If you use jack stands or a floor jack without the rubber adapter, you may damage your vehicle.
Making room
You most definitely can grab an (old) rotor, while still attached, and turn it towards you, to make more room to work on the brake mechanism. This won't lock the steering wheel and won't break anything. If you touch the braking surface of the new rotor, make sure you wipe it off with a cleaner.
Disconnecting hoses and Brake bleeding
The ALLDATA procedure calls for detaching the hose, and subsequently bleeding. No need to do that, IMO. Just make sure you don't twist the hose, and don't let the caliper hang by it! I find hanging the caliper on the suspension convenient.
Disassembling the brake caliper anchor plate (mounting bracket)
It's held in by the two anchor plate bolts. The only thing worth calling out is - don't let that fall on the ground. It would, if you're not holding it.
The anchor plate bolts
If you read the manual, you'd see you're supposed to throw away the anchor plate bolts and install new ones. I would, if I had the OEM ones, but I didn't get them. Those bolts are not true TTY bolts, they don't twist. So as long as you clean off the old Loctite (seems to be red) from them and apply blue one, you should be fine. One thing that's puzzling me a little is that applying blue Loctite would result actually in a higher torque, because it would be a "wet" torque now, and not a "dry" one anymore. Anyway...
Pushing pistons in
The tool makes it easy and hassle free. Of course don't use the tool directly against the piston, place a used brake pad in between them. The trick is to do it slowly and in steps. It's also a good idea to open the brake tank cap, to alleviate pressure. However, don't forget to close it as soon as you're done, as that takes in moisture from the air quickly. And while you're pushing in small increments, watch the level of the fluid, as it would rise. You don't want that tank overflowing, brake fluid strips car paint. If the tank is at MAX before you even start replacing old brake pads, someone must have topped it off. You may need to siphon a bit off. I haven't done the rear yet, but I know for a fact that you don't need to twist/turn, as you push in, as long as you've entered brake maintenance mode. Stop pushing the pistons in when you start feeling resistance.
This is what the caliper tool looks like:
Getting the rotor(s) off
I spent 2 hours on the first one. It was totally stuck and nothing would move it. Tip: if you're going to be smacking the rotor face with a rubber hammer, or the hub itself with an iron hammer, put on the lug nuts to protect the bolt threads, in case you hit them by accident.
Then I sprayed the rotor with WD-40 and after 15min it was off. The other side I did in advance and by the time I was done with the bracket, it was already sliding off on its own. On that note, keep one or two lug nuts in, to avoid letting the rotor accidentally fly off.
Upon visual inspection, I have to say my old rotors looked "brand new". Of course, the lateral runout is impossible to detect by touch or look, but I am fairly certain it was there, as confirmed by the results (see below). I should have spent a bit of money on a tool to measure it, just to know HOW bad was it, but oh well.
Bushings
The brake kit usually comes with "hardware" - the rubber bushings. While you're at it, you should replace them, especially if your brakes have made it to higher mileage on them. My understanding of the repair process and diagrams is that the ones in the rear, opposite side of the bleeder, are especially important to replace. Try not to rip the bushings while installing them. The documentation calls for a socket to be used, tp push them in. Outside lubrication (brake grease) is important and helps too.
Cleaning, grease, anti-seize
There are basically 3 compounds that get used during the procedure:
- Grease - one that can be used on rubber boots. The brake kit comes with it, so I was good. Applied to where metal moves against metal. Funny enough, when I was taking off the old parts, there wasn't any left. So I'd say, that stuff is probably gone from your metal parts in a week. Perhaps some stays in the rubber bushing with the guide pins (which you're supposed to grease too)
- Anti-seize - got myself a jar. Applied in a few key places, such as the hub head (pressed against the wheel)
- Brake cleaner - it evaporates and saves you the time it would take to otherwise wash everything in soap and hot water and then get it dry
The result
After the vehicle came back together, there was the break in procedure for the brand that I've purchased. It's very specific and ensures top performance and longevity of the system.
Lo and behold, by just replacing the front brakes, the steering wheel vibration is gone. So I disagree with Ford's finding that the issue is in the rear and I would have spent $750+ on just the rear, only to find out I'd also have to do the front. In sum, it would have been more than $1500, I assume.
I am yet to do the rear, since I already have the parts and I feel a very light vibration in the brake pedal. So I think both - front and rear were shot. My impression so far is that Ford has put in really cheap brakes and tires on this truck. While I am pissed at having to spend time and money on that, I don't mind upgrading it.
And some photos
Sponsored
Last edited:
