Brake upgrade (EBC Yellowstuff rotors & pads) for my 2.0

[HeyBales]

It’s just the angel and the amount of debris in that groove . One was inner one was outer both wore about the same. But wanted to show both inner and outer were bigger than factory

That is nice size improvement.
I noticed in other threads comments about a certain brand causing less dust than OEM in their prior experience.
Have you noticed a difference with this brand and more/less dust?

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[Snox801]

That is nice size improvement.
I noticed in other threads comments about a certain brand causing less dust than OEM in their prior experience.
Have you noticed a difference with this brand and more/less dust?

To early to tell as I have just made one trip. I have run this brand a lot before and haven’t noticed any more or less dust. I don’t really notice that much anyway as all my rims are ceramic coated. Not sure if it’s my lack of caring if they have dust or if it doesn’t stick as bad.
I’ll know more next week after some miles

 

[Bradley]

I’m sure someone has I found a guy on rumble that did it. Looks to just be standard brake job.

If so that would be great, I personally have not done a "regenerative braking" job yet but am looking forward to it unless there are specific issues.

 

[HeyBales]

If so that would be great, I personally have not done a "regenerative braking" job yet but am looking forward to it unless there are specific issues.

That's not done thru the actual brakes, so anything about that can be ignored.
It's a normal brake job, unless the EPB is new to you, or EBB.
In which case:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/doing-brakes-yourself.62473/post-1049327

 

[Snox801]

The e brake was no big deal. In fact I’m used to screw type so you need anything special. But for fun I used the brake service mode and the only difference is you don’t have to twist the rear piston while compressing.

 

[thev8man]

Ok so I’m labeling this an upgrade because I’m sure thinking it will be.

I swapped out my factory rotors and pads with EBC Yellowstuff. I’ve had very good luck with these pads in the past and they have the best feel of any pad I’ve had ever. Including my expensive race pads. They just wear out to fast for full track use.

Now not only was this a very simple job but the rear ebc pads provide significantly more surface area than factory rear pads. So not only should the pads themselves be better but the added area should help. I’ll be hauling a trailer through the mountains for this week on a 14 hour haul. So time will tell.

Booyah

 

[basicUse]

some of these pads might have a longer break in than others, Especailly with copper in pads getting banned the break in process has been extended for newer pads.

 

[Master Blaster]

Has anyone done brakes yet on a Hybrid AWD? If so, any issues?

New brakes on a Hybrid that is not even one year old? That's insane. The Hybrid brakes last more than twice as long as the EcoBoost ones due to regen braking action, so they should not be required for at least 7 years.

 

[Phimosis]

New brakes on a Hybrid that is not even one year old? That's insane. The Hybrid brakes last more than twice as long as the EcoBoost ones due to regen braking action, so they should not be required for at least 7 years.

Yeah, but you need to have full metallic brake pads on a high performance vehicle like the Maverick. The stock ones are just not up to the task of prolonged track use.

 

[HeyBales]

Yeah, but you need to have full metallic brake pads on a high performance vehicle like the Maverick. The stock ones are just not up to the task of prolonged track use.

While that's being done - don't the calipers also need to be painted or wrapped appropriately?

 

[Phimosis]

some of these pads might have a longer break in than others, Especailly with copper in pads getting banned the break in process has been extended for newer pads.

Pads are coated with an abrasive, specifically for this purpose. Break-in is complete in minutes.

 

[basicUse]

Pads are coated with an abrasive, specifically for this purpose. Break-in is complete in minutes.

What's funny is ebc is the one who told me pads have longer break in's now. They did not mention such a coating on the yellow pads:
" A high friction pad that works from cold and self seats after installation due to its applied brake-in surface coating. Although the new Yellow grade WILL work fine under shorter duration track, trackday (lapping) use on lighter cars or drifting, it does take longer to bed in, and if track driving is your main purpose, choose Bluestuff or the new RP1 and RPX ranges or allow extra time for bedding your brakes in."

https://www.ebcbrakes.com/products/ebc-yellowstuff-fast-street-pads/

 

[basicUse]

Pads are coated with an abrasive, specifically for this purpose. Break-in is complete in minutes.

Also ceramic pads even partial cermaic pads are not effected by this change like the blues shown. Also please don't use google ai as a main source it is very unreliable.

 

[Phimosis]

Also ceramic pads even partial cermaic pads are not effected by this change like the blues shown. Also please don't use google ai as a main source it is very unreliable.

Bedding instructions from EBC web site on how to bed EBC yellow brakes:

• On a safe straight road with no cars close behind or in front at approx. 40-50 mph apply the brake to 30% or so pressure whilst continuing to press the accelerator to main vehicle speed for as long as safe to do so, you will need approximately a clear quarter mile to do this so make sure you have that. This will drag the brakes, get them hot and take them past the 400-500C level required for bed in and you may even smell brake odour. You may feel the pedal go a little spongy, if it gets too soft abort the process and start again later. What is too soft? Too soft means that you feel that the brakes are not responding well.
• Release the brake and coast for a mile, slowly, unless you have to make a stop.
• If you have to abort the process part way through, repeat it as soon as safe to do so.
• Coasting after the bed in to allow discs to cool as you should not park the vehicle with HOT brakes. So be sure you have a road where it is safe enough to do this procedure with no imminent bends or stops in front of you so you can roll for a while and allow discs to cool, but if you need the brakes USE THEM
• Allow the brake to fully cool ( if possible overnight) and repeat the exact same process again.
• Your pads should feel entirely different to before the process, they should feel sharp and much more responsive. This process is called eliminating “Green fade” by burning off those surface volatiles.
• You will see blue marks on the discs after you stop, these will go away in a few miles

The process literally takes just a few minutes.

Also, google AI was super useful at typing out the components that are in the brake-in compound. Based on everything else I’ve read, it’s not wrong. If you think it’s wrong, cite your source.

 

[Bradley]

Yeah, but you need to have full metallic brake pads on a high performance vehicle like the Maverick. The stock ones are just not up to the task of prolonged track use.

Idea, somebody start a "racing" Maverick project. Hmmm, a "Trans Am" Maverick. interesting

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