Newest Ford special service message on Hybrid 12v Volt Battery Drain Problem

[Senior Master Ford Guy]

There has been some mention posted on here about 12 volt( low voltage system) battery drain and " deep sleep" messages from Ford Pass in Mavericks, today Ford released on the Professional Technician System accessible by Ford technicians this special service message, this may be something to have your dealer check if you are experiencing the problem of no start or dead/low battery. It does not specify that the mega fuse is being " blown" or popped, from my experience as a technician with some of the other models I have seen this mega fuse actually develop a crack ( typically caused by road shock/vibration)which can intermittently allow the loss of electrical charge to the battery, I've had them where they test good with an ohm/continuity meter laying on a bench but then with a little pressure applied to each end will test open. Ford does listen and research complaints/concerns with their vehicles and typically will give us( technicians) a heads up once they find a repetitive cause. Here is the service message, hope it helps some of you!

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May 4 2023 New SSM 51598 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2023 Maverick – FHEV/PHEV - 12V Battery Voltage Low Or Discharged With DTC U3003:62 Stored In The DC/DC

Some 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair equipped with 2.5L engine full hybrid electric vehicle (FHEV) and plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) powertrain and 2022-2023 Maverick vehicles equipped with 2.5L engine FHEV powertrain may exhibit a condition where the 12V battery voltage is low or discharged with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) U3003:62 stored in the direct current/direct current converter control module (DC/DC). The vehicle may also exhibit DTC U3003:16 and/or U3000:04 stored in the DC/DC module. This may be due to an open in the 300 amp mega fuse located in the high current battery junction box (BJB). To correct this condition, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-05>Pinpoint Test H1 to verify the 300amp mega fuse condition, replace the fuse upon confirmation it is open. Test and recharge the 12v battery.

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[Flight Test]

There has been some mention posted on here about 12 volt( low voltage system) battery drain and " deep sleep" messages from Ford Pass in Mavericks, today Ford released on the Professional Technician System accessible by Ford technicians this special service message, this may be something to have your dealer check if you are experiencing the problem of no start or dead/low battery. It does not specify that the mega fuse is being " blown" or popped, from my experience as a technician with some of the other models I have seen this mega fuse actually develop a crack ( typically caused by road shock/vibration)which can intermittently allow the loss of electrical charge to the battery, I've had them where they test good with an ohm/continuity meter laying on a bench but then with a little pressure applied to each end will test open. Ford does listen and research complaints/concerns with their vehicles and typically will give us( technicians) a heads up once they find a repetitive cause. Here is the service message, hope it helps some of you!

​

May 4 2023 New SSM 51598 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2023 Maverick – FHEV/PHEV - 12V Battery Voltage Low Or Discharged With DTC U3003:62 Stored In The DC/DC

Some 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair equipped with 2.5L engine full hybrid electric vehicle (FHEV) and plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) powertrain and 2022-2023 Maverick vehicles equipped with 2.5L engine FHEV powertrain may exhibit a condition where the 12V battery voltage is low or discharged with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) U3003:62 stored in the direct current/direct current converter control module (DC/DC). The vehicle may also exhibit DTC U3003:16 and/or U3000:04 stored in the DC/DC module. This may be due to an open in the 300 amp mega fuse located in the high current battery junction box (BJB). To correct this condition, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-05>Pinpoint Test H1 to verify the 300amp mega fuse condition, replace the fuse upon confirmation it is open. Test and recharge the 12v battery.

Thank you for sharing this with the Mav community. Hopefully it is the start of resolving this issue.

 

[realshelby]

Sounds like a spare 300 amp mega fuse might give piece of mind!

 

[colinl]

There has been some mention posted on here about 12 volt( low voltage system) battery drain and " deep sleep" messages from Ford Pass in Mavericks, today Ford released on the Professional Technician System accessible by Ford technicians this special service message, this may be something to have your dealer check if you are experiencing the problem of no start or dead/low battery. It does not specify that the mega fuse is being " blown" or popped, from my experience as a technician with some of the other models I have seen this mega fuse actually develop a crack ( typically caused by road shock/vibration)which can intermittently allow the loss of electrical charge to the battery, I've had them where they test good with an ohm/continuity meter laying on a bench but then with a little pressure applied to each end will test open. Ford does listen and research complaints/concerns with their vehicles and typically will give us( technicians) a heads up once they find a repetitive cause. Here is the service message, hope it helps some of you!

​

May 4 2023 New SSM 51598 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2023 Maverick – FHEV/PHEV - 12V Battery Voltage Low Or Discharged With DTC U3003:62 Stored In The DC/DC

Some 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair equipped with 2.5L engine full hybrid electric vehicle (FHEV) and plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) powertrain and 2022-2023 Maverick vehicles equipped with 2.5L engine FHEV powertrain may exhibit a condition where the 12V battery voltage is low or discharged with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) U3003:62 stored in the direct current/direct current converter control module (DC/DC). The vehicle may also exhibit DTC U3003:16 and/or U3000:04 stored in the DC/DC module. This may be due to an open in the 300 amp mega fuse located in the high current battery junction box (BJB). To correct this condition, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-05>Pinpoint Test H1 to verify the 300amp mega fuse condition, replace the fuse upon confirmation it is open. Test and recharge the 12v battery.

I saw that in a FB group yesterday, but your contextual experience is really helpful.

So what's this test consist of, in a nutshell?

Section 414-05>Pinpoint Test H1 to verify the 300amp mega fuse condition, replace the fuse upon confirmation it is open.

What's that 300A mega fuse even look like? If it's anything like this, it couldn't hurt to keep a spare on hand and I suspect the official Ford part is going to be near $100. (EDIT: I'm deleting a link to Amazon so no one gets confused and orders this. If you're looking at edit history or someone quoted my original post, DO NOT order what I linked.)

 

[Harry G]

Before anyone goes out a buys a spare fuse please keep in mind that this is a 300 amp fuse in the high voltage side. screwing up will not just tingle your fingers it will light your ass up and may just lay you out permanently. Let the people with the training handle this one

 

[Darnon]

It appears to be built into the terminal assembly that the DC-DC cable and battery harness attached to and which bolts down onto the side of the junction box main bus. Part LX6Z14526C ~$68 list price.

Before anyone goes out a buys a spare fuse please keep in mind that this is a 300 amp fuse in the high voltage side. screwing up will not just tingle your fingers it will light your ass up and may just lay you out permanently. Let the people with the training handle this one

It's not on the high voltage side. Low voltage, but since the DC-DC converter is essentially the stand-in for the alternator it needs high current capacity.

 

[colinl]

It appears to be built into the terminal assembly that the DC-DC cable and battery harness attached to and which bolts down onto the side of the junction box main bus. Part LX6Z14526C ~$68 list price.

It's not on the high voltage side. Low voltage, but since the DC-DC converter is essentially the stand-in for the alternator it needs high current capacity.

Nice. Even at $68, I think some might elect to have a spare.

 

[Darnon]

Also the pinpoint test has some interesting elaboration on the related DTC:

The DCDC monitors the 12-volt battery system voltage internally at the B+ terminal and at the low voltage connector in the DCDC and compares the voltage. If the voltage
difference is greater than 4.3 volts, the DCDC sets DTC U3003:62. The DCDC goes to standby mode ( DCDC disabled) and the 12-volt battery can eventually be discharged.
Reduced or no functionality of 12-volt systems (such as the headlamps and HVAC blower motor) may also be noticed.

Emphasis mine. So if the DC-DC converter detects a sufficient variance between its output terminal voltage and the 12V system as a whole it'll stop outputting entirely. Also notes that attempting to jumpstart the vehicle with the polarity reversed can trigger the code and/or blow the fuse in question.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

It appears to be built into the terminal assembly that the DC-DC cable and battery harness attached to and which bolts down onto the side of the junction box main bus. Part LX6Z14526C ~$68 list price.

It's not on the high voltage side. Low voltage, but since the DC-DC converter is essentially the stand-in for the alternator it needs high current capacity.

I noticed it's rated at 32 volts so that's definitely not high voltage side but is on the DC/DC converter output and have surge capacity protection. This will be why the threaded 12v jump post in the picture is not directly connected.

 

[Flomounier1]

I've also heard you can blow that fuse by incorrectly jump starting your vehicle. More specifically, hooking the positive jumper to the wrong terminal. (Not that you did that, just a FYI to anyone reading.)

 

[MakinDoForNow]

I've also heard you can blow that fuse by incorrectly jump starting your vehicle. More specifically, hooking the positive jumper to the wrong terminal.

Probably trying to transfer max amps from or to your positive jumper.

 

[Mike S]

Here are a couple of videos that also show a potential problem that may be related:

 

[LSchicago]

Nice. Even at $68, I think some might elect to have a spare.

I would. $68 is worth it for piece of mind.

 

[commadorebob]

I about spit my drink at "300 amp." That bar allows 3.6 kW of power through it on the 12VDC rail. If it burns out, I would 100% let the professionals look at it. That is more power than my house pulls on an Alabama summer day.

 

[Darnon]

I about spit my drink at "300 amp." That bar allows 3.6 kW of power through it on the 12VDC rail. If it burns out, I would 100% let the professionals look at it. That is more power than my house pulls on an Alabama summer day.

A car starting battery has the potential of some 8-10 kW+ and most people aren't too fussed about changing those out.

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