Newest Ford special service message on Hybrid 12v Volt Battery Drain Problem

[Automate]

I about spit my drink at "300 amp." That bar allows 3.6 kW of power through it on the 12VDC rail. If it burns out, I would 100% let the professionals look at it. That is more power than my house pulls on an Alabama summer day.

Sounds like often it is not "burning out" but rather cracking from a manufacturing issue.

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[colinl]

A car starting battery has the potential of some 8-10 kW+ and most people aren't too fussed about changing those out.

Plus haven't you seen action movies where the bad guys are torturing people with car batteries and water? 12v isn't enough to instantly die. It'll hurt like a sonuvabeach. The hybrid high-voltage system, on the other hand, can definitely kill you dead.

Jokes aside, disconnect the 12V positive battery terminal first. That's dead easy. Replace 300A mega fuse. Reconnect. Done, and no sparky.

 

[GT1]

Great to know, my Maverick died yesterday & was taken back to dealer (after jumping the car). Hope they have this info since as of yesterday afternoon, they wanted it "left for a couple of days", since it appears they have no idea why it went dead. Their answer was "it popped a bunch of codes & we have no idea why, we are charging the battery".

 

[TedTX]

Nice I figured that one guys find in another thread would have been the key to understanding this issue last week. One more area of weakness identified and corrected. This fits the criteria of how this could cause the the problems so often shared.
But also why it wasn’t thought to be suspect. Faults in high amp systems are rarely intermittent its generally fry and die the first time the ‘intermittent’ is almost always also the last.

 

[garnermike]

I had issues related to charging/discharging of the 12v battery in my Mav (dome interior lights failing to work, intelligent-access door locks not functioning). Using a charger on my 12v battery became a regular thing for me, until I brought it to the dealer. They found the battery undercharged and so put in a new battery. Since then , there have been no issues (knocking on wood here!). I appreciate this post -- in that if the problem reoccurs, I'll bring the SSM to their attention.

 

[TedTX]

Reading up on this does anyone else see a cheap ‘fix’ like I do to solve this for themselves…. Not going to post that but I can’t be the only one to see something very obvious.

 

[Dad]

There has been some mention posted on here about 12 volt( low voltage system) battery drain and " deep sleep" messages from Ford Pass in Mavericks, today Ford released on the Professional Technician System accessible by Ford technicians this special service message, this may be something to have your dealer check if you are experiencing the problem of no start or dead/low battery. It does not specify that the mega fuse is being " blown" or popped, from my experience as a technician with some of the other models I have seen this mega fuse actually develop a crack ( typically caused by road shock/vibration)which can intermittently allow the loss of electrical charge to the battery, I've had them where they test good with an ohm/continuity meter laying on a bench but then with a little pressure applied to each end will test open. Ford does listen and research complaints/concerns with their vehicles and typically will give us( technicians) a heads up once they find a repetitive cause. Here is the service message, hope it helps some of you!

​

May 4 2023 New SSM 51598 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2023 Maverick – FHEV/PHEV - 12V Battery Voltage Low Or Discharged With DTC U3003:62 Stored In The DC/DC

Some 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair equipped with 2.5L engine full hybrid electric vehicle (FHEV) and plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) powertrain and 2022-2023 Maverick vehicles equipped with 2.5L engine FHEV powertrain may exhibit a condition where the 12V battery voltage is low or discharged with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) U3003:62 stored in the direct current/direct current converter control module (DC/DC). The vehicle may also exhibit DTC U3003:16 and/or U3000:04 stored in the DC/DC module. This may be due to an open in the 300 amp mega fuse located in the high current battery junction box (BJB). To correct this condition, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-05>Pinpoint Test H1 to verify the 300amp mega fuse condition, replace the fuse upon confirmation it is open. Test and recharge the 12v battery.

Thank you for sharing this. Now the "ball" is in the dealers' court. Let's see how many of them respond and take action. It might be up to us to push it or just do it ourselves.

 

[skyhawk]

Sounds like often it is not "burning out" but rather cracking from a manufacturing issue.

And this is why I would not consider the issue resolved even with a fuse swap. A fuse swap is a temporary fix until it cracks again.

A real fix entails getting to the root cause of the fuse failure, and correcting it so they stop cracking.

Someone wake me when they fix it for real...

 

[GPSMan]

Plus haven't you seen action movies where the bad guys are torturing people with car batteries and water? 12v isn't enough to instantly die. It'll hurt like a sonuvabeach. The hybrid high-voltage system, on the other hand, can definitely kill you dead.

Jokes aside, disconnect the 12V positive battery terminal first. That's dead easy. Replace 300A mega fuse. Reconnect. Done, and no sparky.

Lots of "mechanics" get things wrong on these forms.

YOU ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS (did I mention ALWAYS!) disconnect the ground cable FIRST!

While disconnecting any terminal with a metallic tool, if the tool is on the positive terminal and touches any grounded frame member, nut or bolt, you risk arc welding that tool in place and/or blowing any attached fuses and/or blowing out other sensitive electronics.

In the Maverick and most modern cars, the negative terminal is grounded to the frame. Disconnect negative first.

A fuse is typically only one side. There is no decision to make. But it's bad habit in general to disconnect positive pole first.

 

[mhw21zap]

There has been some mention posted on here about 12 volt( low voltage system) battery drain and " deep sleep" messages from Ford Pass in Mavericks, today Ford released on the Professional Technician System accessible by Ford technicians this special service message, this may be something to have your dealer check if you are experiencing the problem of no start or dead/low battery. It does not specify that the mega fuse is being " blown" or popped, from my experience as a technician with some of the other models I have seen this mega fuse actually develop a crack ( typically caused by road shock/vibration)which can intermittently allow the loss of electrical charge to the battery, I've had them where they test good with an ohm/continuity meter laying on a bench but then with a little pressure applied to each end will test open. Ford does listen and research complaints/concerns with their vehicles and typically will give us( technicians) a heads up once they find a repetitive cause. Here is the service message, hope it helps some of you!

​

May 4 2023 New SSM 51598 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair, 2022-2023 Maverick – FHEV/PHEV - 12V Battery Voltage Low Or Discharged With DTC U3003:62 Stored In The DC/DC

Some 2020-2023 Escape/Corsair equipped with 2.5L engine full hybrid electric vehicle (FHEV) and plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV) powertrain and 2022-2023 Maverick vehicles equipped with 2.5L engine FHEV powertrain may exhibit a condition where the 12V battery voltage is low or discharged with diagnostic trouble code (DTC) U3003:62 stored in the direct current/direct current converter control module (DC/DC). The vehicle may also exhibit DTC U3003:16 and/or U3000:04 stored in the DC/DC module. This may be due to an open in the 300 amp mega fuse located in the high current battery junction box (BJB). To correct this condition, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 414-05>Pinpoint Test H1 to verify the 300amp mega fuse condition, replace the fuse upon confirmation it is open. Test and recharge the 12v battery.

I am in the middle of an absolute nightmare with my dealership. In 49 days of owning my 2023 XLT Hybrid it's been at the dealership for 12 of them. I JUST this morning picked up my truck after 10 days of waiting for a battery monitor sensor to be installed...only for my truck to go into deep sleep mode 30 minutes after I left the dealership and parked at work.

Seeing this SSM is a godsend and I'm praying that my dealership will look into this. I can't believe how unwilling they are to do anything beyond replace my 12V battery, make me wait 10 days for the battery monitor sensor, and then tell me an hour after I have left that it's up to me to figure it out.

And then I stumble into this SSM - which perfectly describes what's been happening and could very well be the cause of my battery issue. It's at least worth investigating.

Is there any other information, advice or background as to when/where this was posted so that if I need to escalate this further on the dealership chain of command I can at least have some valid data to provide them.

Please and thank you - I appreciate any help I can get with this.

 

[colinl]

Lots of "mechanics" get things wrong on these forms.

YOU ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS (did I mention ALWAYS!) disconnect the ground cable FIRST!

While disconnecting any terminal with a metallic tool, if the tool is on the positive terminal and touches any grounded frame member, nut or bolt, you risk arc welding that tool in place and/or blowing any attached fuses and/or blowing out other sensitive electronics.

In the Maverick and most modern cars, the negative terminal is grounded to the frame. Disconnect negative first.

A fuse is typically only one side. There is no decision to make. But it's bad habit in general to disconnect positive pole first.

I meant both. With the 12V battery disconnected, that fuse does nothing. Therefore swapping it can't arc or anything else.

 

[OneAlienBoi]

Before anyone goes out a buys a spare fuse please keep in mind that this is a 300 amp fuse in the high voltage side. screwing up will not just tingle your fingers it will light your ass up and may just lay you out permanently. Let the people with the training handle this one

Not it might, you screw up and there's a 100% chance your ass is grass.

 

[Senior Master Ford Guy]

I am in the middle of an absolute nightmare with my dealership. In 49 days of owning my 2023 XLT Hybrid it's been at the dealership for 12 of them. I JUST this morning picked up my truck after 10 days of waiting for a battery monitor sensor to be installed...only for my truck to go into deep sleep mode 30 minutes after I left the dealership and parked at work.

Seeing this SSM is a godsend and I'm praying that my dealership will look into this. I can't believe how unwilling they are to do anything beyond replace my 12V battery, make me wait 10 days for the battery monitor sensor, and then tell me an hour after I have left that it's up to me to figure it out.

And then I stumble into this SSM - which perfectly describes what's been happening and could very well be the cause of my battery issue. It's at least worth investigating.

Is there any other information, advice or background as to when/where this was posted so that if I need to escalate this further on the dealership chain of command I can at least have some valid data to provide them.

Please and thank you - I appreciate any help I can get with this.

I hope this will help and remedy your concern! This is an "internal" post on a Ford web page that is available to every dealer service department, unfortunately not everyone or every dealer keeps abreast of these messages when they are released. I have access ( as does any ford tech) because I am and have been a Ford technician for over 30 years now and try to check them daily. This is what helps us fix concerns for customers when they are hard to diagnose and intermittent concerns sometimes.

 

[Senior Master Ford Guy]

And this is why I would not consider the issue resolved even with a fuse swap. A fuse swap is a temporary fix until it cracks again.

A real fix entails getting to the root cause of the fuse failure, and correcting it so they stop cracking.

Someone wake me when they fix it for real...

It may be an upgraded replacement, or they may have found a batch of poorly manufactured fuses or determined the source was not manufacturing them properly. WE don't get that type of info, but typically once the fuse has been replaced I have not seen the vehicles that I have serviced back for the same concern.

 

[Darnon]

This is located inside the High Voltage Battery junction Box as stated " located in the high current battery junction box (BJB)" , which is inside the hybrid battery. Should be a hybrid specific component that is covered 10 year 150,000 miles. Do not attempt repair yourself, stay alive to enjoy your Maverick

No? The High Current (not voltage) Junction Box is the underhood junction/fuse box.

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