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mamboman777

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The battery needs to be vented to the outside because it is located inside the cabin of the vehicle instead of in the engine compartment.
Does that mean that the air from the battery is unsafe? I wouldn't have known, but that makes sense.
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Darnon

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Does that mean that the air from the battery is unsafe? I wouldn't have known, but that makes sense.
Primarily it's that charging batteries release hydrogen. Hydrogen in an enclosed space can be a fire/explosion hazard. Or if the battery starts to seriously overcharge then you get sulfurous off-gassing which stinks.
 

cyberdog

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If I'm reading the labels correctly, it's a 390A battery, with a 45 Min Reserve? - That's pretty small, about what Subaru puts in their Crosstrek, and smaller than the original battery in my Outback, which was way under sized....although those are flooded cells, with vents for each cell.

If I buy the hybrid when it arrives, which is likely, I'll pop in an Optima, Duracell, Odyssey or some other Gel/AGM battery the first winter, if the battery actually is only 390A, with a 45min reserve. - Just my $0.02 on the battery.

To answer the safety question, hydrogen is highly explosive....think the Hindenburg, it wasn't the shell that exploded, it was the hydrogen used for lighter than air flight. Sealed Gel and AGM batteries expel less than a standard flooded cell, so I'm betting that either a Gel or AGM battery, so use the same when replacing.
 
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mamboman777

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Primarily it's that charging batteries release hydrogen. Hydrogen in an enclosed space can be a fire/explosion hazard. Or if the battery starts to seriously overcharge then you get sulfurous off-gassing which stinks.
Thank you do educating me!
 

Darnon

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If I'm reading the labels correctly, it's a 390A battery, with a 45 Min Reserve? - That's pretty small, about what Subaru puts in their Crosstrek, and smaller than the original battery in my Outback, which was way under sized....although those are flooded cells, with vents for each cell.
Remember that in this case the 12V battery doesn't actually have to start the engine and thus the low cranking amperage. Also many of the power points are off with the key not in Run/Acc when the HVB to 12V transformer would be active.
 

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bgillen35

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Remember that in this case the 12V battery doesn't actually have to start the engine and thus the low cranking amperage. Also many of the power points are off with the key not in Run/Acc when the HVB to 12V transformer would be active.
I don't mean to derail the subject, but then can I assume that if my truck wont start due to a "dead battery," does that then mean it is the hybrid battery that is dead?

I thought I recall on another post someone had a picture of the manual and it showed jumper connections under the hood of the hybrid so you didn't have to run jumper cables to the back seat. If the 12v battery is not starting the vehicle, then what are those jumper connection points for under the hood?
 

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I don't mean to derail the subject, but then can I assume that if my truck wont start due to a "dead battery," does that then mean it is the hybrid battery that is dead?

I thought I recall on another post someone had a picture of the manual and it showed jumper connections under the hood of the hybrid so you didn't have to run jumper cables to the back seat. If the 12v battery is not starting the vehicle, then what are those jumper connection points for under the hood?
In most instances it'd be the 12V battery that is dead then the computers have no power to command the HVB contactors (which are also electrically actuated) to close and charge the 12V system. So that's when you would need to jumpstart the vehicle.

In the highly unlikely event the HVB is critically drained it's a tow to the dealer since it's recommended to use special equipment for recharge. Lithium batteries get very temperamental when fully discharged. But the battery management system shouldn't be allowing the HVB that low in the first place.
 

bgillen35

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In most instances it'd be the 12V battery that is dead then the computers have no power to command the HVB contactors (which are also electrically actuated) to close and charge the 12V system. So that's when you would need to jumpstart the vehicle.

In the highly unlikely event the HVB is critically drained it's a tow to the dealer since it's recommended to use special equipment for recharge. Lithium batteries get very temperamental when fully discharged. But the battery management system shouldn't be allowing the HVB that low in the first place.
So if the HVB is good and just the 12v needs the jump start, would the ICE actually turn over to indicate a successful "jump" or would all the electronics just come on and the needle move to "Ready?"
 

JohnHartshorn

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So if the HVB is good and just the 12v needs the jump start, would the ICE actually turn over to indicate a successful "jump" or would all the electronics just come on and the needle move to "Ready?"
I suppose that would depend on the state of the HVB. If it is low, the ICE will start to charge. Also would be air temperature dependent. If cold, the ICE will start to warm up.
 

MakinDoForNow

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I suppose that would depend on the state of the HVB. If it is low, the ICE will start to charge. Also would be air temperature dependent. If cold, the ICE will start to warm up.
I read somewhere that the ice can start in order to keep catalytic converter hot enough and to provide heat for the HVB also if needed. The ice will start for reasons other than just charging HVB.
 
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Coming from a non-hybrid owner, I guess the question is how do you know the 12V battery is bad and in need of a jump if it is not used to turn over the engine so to speak? Does a prompt come up on your screen saying insufficient power, new 12v needed? Even if, then theoretically once you remove the jumper cables, you will still be back in a lower power state, so what's the point of needing to jump start a hybrid?
 

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Coming from a non-hybrid owner, I guess the question is how do you know the 12V battery is bad and in need of a jump if it is not used to turn over the engine so to speak? Does a prompt come up on your screen saying insufficient power, new 12v needed? Even if, then theoretically once you remove the jumper cables, you will still be back in a lower power state, so what's the point of needing to jump start a hybrid?
If the 12v is flat you won't have headlights, radio, the car computer that it needs to work, and such, since they are all 12v systems.
 

MakinDoForNow

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The HVB through the inverter/converter provides (through the 12v bus) charging current to keep 12v battery above a certain voltage. Until the HVB gets below a certain SOC. I believe the 12v battery is an AGM because it has much less off gassing than a wet lead acid battery and venting (required because it's in cab area) is much easily accomplished. If the ice won't crank with the 12v charged you will need to take to dealer as probably HVB's (which actually is the one that starts ice) SOC is such that computer has placed it into state of inactivity to prevent permanent damage.
 

rp2s

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I am thinking the opposite, the cabs in Alabama get extremely hot during the summer when they are not running
The battery is not really in the cab. It’s under a thick seat cushion and in a plastic sealed container. I don’t think heat will be an issue with it. Just my own observation.
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