Newest Ford special service message on Hybrid 12v Volt Battery Drain Problem

[Senior Master Ford Guy]

One of the first things Ford has us check when there is an electrical issue, programming issue, drivability issue, etc... is " are there any aftermarket modifications that have been installed/performed to the vehicle".

Sponsored

 

[Random]

One of the first things Ford has us check when there is an electrical issue, programming issue, drivability issue, etc... is " are there any aftermarket modifications that have been installed/performed to the vehicle".

Yeah thats why I disconnect them prior and tell them it’s not the mirror or dashcam so don’t waste your time.

 

[Silver23]

One of the first things Ford has us check when there is an electrical issue, programming issue, drivability issue, etc... is " are there any aftermarket modifications that have been installed/performed to the vehicle".

Yes, funny thing is I told them about the alarm when I first took it in. I saw it when I was getting the code for the keypad on the truck under that passenger side cover. Why it took 3 days for them to eliminate it as a cause I don’t know. The Service writer said it was connected to the PCM which is a no no.
when I bought the truck the other dealer offered that $25 pos for $600! I told them I don’t want it and they said it would be removed.

 

[Silver23]

The clicking sounds are normal. The power problem sounds similar to mine when the DC/DC converter went out on me. It stopped charging the battery and it died. They changed it and all's well ever since. The converter went out on me at 780 miles. I now have over 6000 miles and working perfectly.

Well since the alarm was disconnected the noises haven’t happened. Too soon to tell for sure though.
Edit, update. The noises do not happen anymore when I just get near the truck. I have to open the door then it does the relays noise. Apparently the alarm was waking it up by using the sensors and/or camera.

 

[TheWizziard]

Tale as old as time. There is nothing worse than dealer installed aftermarket junk on a brand new car. Just profit center garbage. I'd rather just hand them the extra money they would have made on that flotsam and tell them to keep their wire cutters and crimp tools away from my vehicle.

I will never, ever take delivery of a brand new car that had any electrical gizmos added by the dealer. It is simply not happening.

Now whenever you have any electrical issue at all, the first thing you have to suspect is this alarm.

I agree. I don't do any dealer options or dealer aftermarket. Learned my lesson in '75 with dealer undercoating.
Never since. I do it myself or at a reputable after market supplier.

 

[Silver23]

What does the dealer / service dept. say about this?

Mine says they are not going to replace the 12v because the truck still starts. The battery is 12.1 about 5 minutes after a long (1 hour) drive and 11.9v after sitting a weekend. But it sure starts, yes it does, because the HV battery does the starting.

Well, after my draw is fixed and my truck "starts" in the morning... I checked it this morning (sat for about 14 hours) and the battery is at 11.4 volts. I can't believe my dealer won't give me one. They says it checks good.
My battery chargers will not charge it all the way, I know it's bad.
Rather than have my truck cook itself trying to charge it I'm going to buy a new one myself. Looks like O'Reilly's has a direct/same part number Motorcraft replacement for $135.
update, no, it's $191 ! crap

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Plus haven't you seen action movies where the bad guys are torturing people with car batteries and water? 12v isn't enough to instantly die. It'll hurt like a sonuvabeach. The hybrid high-voltage system, on the other hand, can definitely kill you dead.

Jokes aside, disconnect the 12V positive battery terminal first. That's dead easy. Replace 300A mega fuse. Reconnect. Done, and no sparky.

Just keep in mind there is a difference between "Dead Easy" and "Easy Dead"!

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Interesting: The output on the DC-DC converter fused at 300A and the battery is fused with a 200A fuse.

The 200 amp fuse will blow and shut off excessive current entering battery (maybe in case 12v bms fails ???).

 

[Hoagus]

I agree. I don't do any dealer options or dealer aftermarket. Learned my lesson in '75 with dealer undercoating.
Never since. I do it myself or at a reputable after market supplier.

My dealer required the add-ones — or they’d sell the truck to someone else. Fortunately, they only really installed the generic LoJack. They just lied about the PPF and locking lug nuts. The dealer was part of the Victory Auto Group, and has since been sold to another dealer conglomerate.

 

[GPSMan]

My dealer said the 12v battery is covered under the 3yr/36,000 mile warranty. Not prorated. Free replacement in the first 3/36k.

Maybe I'll chillax a little.
Looks like mine won't last 3/36.

But better to get a new one at 20,000 miles than 10,000 so long as as the dealer said "it starts fine" at 11.9 volts.

 

[Silver23]

My dealer said the 12v battery is covered under the 3yr/36,000 mile warranty. Not prorated. Free replacement in the first 3/36k.

Maybe I'll chillax a little.
Looks like mine won't last 3/36.

But better to get a new one at 20,000 miles than 10,000 so long as as the dealer said "it starts fine" at 11.9 volts.

My concern now is that my truck is most likely constantly trying to charge my crap battery. I tried to top it off with two different chargers and they both shut down before they charged. I don’t like the idea that it could be straining to charge constantly.
As far as starting as you know it doesn’t use that battery so that is a stupid argument

 

[GPSMan]

Breaking News : News Flash

My truck is NOT trying to charge the 12 volt battery and/or the 12v battery is not accepting charge, not sure which.

Like 1 amp or less is going into the 12v battery even though it's 50% to 65% charged based on voltage tables for flooded lead acid batteries.

No "strain" on the system.

This is after a 75 minute drive.
Key on, DC/DC converter producing the 14.7 volts.

Turn the key off, it drops to 12.2.
Next day, 11.9.

 

[Silver23]

Breaking News : News Flash

My truck is NOT trying to charge the 12 volt battery and/or the 12v battery is not accepting charge, not sure which.

Like 1 amp or less is going into the 12v battery even though it's 50% to 65% charged based on voltage tables for flooded lead acid batteries.

No "strain" on the system.

This is after a 75 minute drive.
Key on, DC/DC converter producing the 14.7 volts.

Turn the key off, it drops to 12.2.
Next day, 11.9.

I didn’t know one could see this stuff with a scan tool. Off to the garage I go.

 

[GPSMan]

I didn’t know one could see this stuff with a scan tool. Off to the garage I go.

First thing in the morning, this:

The 81 deg is warmer than ambient and the truck had not been started yet.
The temperature sensor may be under the truck, picking up asphalt temperature or something? It was about 65 ambient, like the others show. But Low Voltage side was 12.1. Just the dome light on from opening the driver's door.

 

[GPSMan]

It seems like 12v Battery is programmed for 65% charge to be ideal case. Is there any research that keeping FLA in this zone is Ideal for longevity?

12 Volt Battery in Truck Charge Curve:

32% 48A
49%. 18A
50%. 15A
52%. 12A
53%. 9A
54%. 8A
55%. 7A
64% 1A
65%. 0A

Sponsored