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New 12V battery drain in 3 days!

dhill59

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Good morning fellow hybrid mavericks. I bit the bullet and replaced my 12V battery because my truck would occasionally be dead in the morning and I would have to jump the 12V to get the car to turn on. Anyhow changed it out last Sunday and at 3am this morning, three days later, got a notice from my ford app that it went to sleep mode. Are there any modules i need to turn off such as WIFI or anything I can do to check where the electricity drain is coming from?

My add-ons are I have two amps powering my sub and speakers, I have a blackvue dashcam that's powered at the fuse box passenger side. I don't have my dashcam running while in park due to battery drain. Getting annoyed, I may need to take it to the dealer but I feel like they always give me the run around. Just want to check and do it myself if possible.
In a semirelated question, are the 12v pigtails in you bed hot all the time? I asked that question in another post because the ones in my 2022 Hybrid were hot all the time and I had deep sleep all the time. The pigtails in my 2024 Hybrid are not hot unless the ignition is on and I have had zero battery issues.
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paneubert

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A previous post mentioned a 45 Amp Hour battery. On Autozone it mentions a 70 Amp hour battery is the replacement battery.

What is the battery Amp hour rating of the standard battery on new vehicles?

It seems to me if it is only 45 Amp hour then even a minor load (say 1 amp) would drain the battery in 2 days.
Depends on if we are talking Hybrid or EcoBoost. My EcoBoost has a BAGM-48H6-760. Which is 760 CCA / 950 CA / 120 RC.

Which if you do the math via one formula I saw (divide the CCA by 7.25) should equate to around a 104 Amp Hour battery. There is no direct conversion/formula since the two values are not directly tied, but it gives a ballpark I suppose.
 

MakinDoForNow

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In a semirelated question, are the 12v pigtails in you bed hot all the time? I asked that question in another post because the ones in my 2022 Hybrid were hot all the time and I had deep sleep all the time. The pigtails in my 2024 Hybrid are not hot unless the ignition is on and I have had zero battery issues.
In the 2022 and 2023 (I do not know on 2024) the 12v accessory circuit would stay active for up to 90 minutes (for tailgating etc) OR UNTIL THE 12 VOLT BATTERY DROPPED TO 12.1 VOLTS! Which is the reason the manual mentions that care should be taken with things left active in those circuits. Care had to be taken when installing dash cams or whatever to get power from a key off=12v off location. But some want items that want key off = power stays on.
 

MavTime

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Checked back a couple hours later (in the evening) and it read 100% and was slow flashing, which means it was in the maintenance phase where it really isn't doing much other than keeping an eye on the battery so it could kick on to top it off if needed.
The slow green blink is still conditioning and topping off the battery, you should wait until it finishes and goes solid green. The website said it was like filling a beer where it foams up, and you have to wait for the foam to drop down so you can add more, then wait and add more. But the most I got mine to was 13.2v so it sounds like you got close to that. My understanding is flooded batteries should top out about there, 2.2v per cell x 6 = 13.2v.

For those of you that are putting a charger or maintainer on your truck there are a few things that will help you achieve your goal . And since it is easier to show you than tell you I have linked a video that applies to most Ford's with the BMS .
Just saw this but haven't watched the entire video. Is there a quick breakdown of what you're supposed to do? Mine just finished charging outside with ground cable from truck disconnected, I was going to let it sit connected and undriven for 6-8 hours to retrain the system. EDIT: I see now it was just saying to connect ground to the body or beyond the box sensor.
 
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B2000

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Good to know. I did notice a post/stud with a hefty wire running from the negative battery post to the body of the truck. I assume it is wired "after" the BMS, so would be a good spot for the negative lead of the trickle charger to connect for next time. This time I did the "wrong" way and connected directly to the positive and negative battery posts. Seemed to work ok, as the Auto Start/Stop did begin to work again. But anything to make the process shorter and more efficient is cool with me!
I hooked up my battery tender to the battery posts also and after 100% charge (according to BT) my start/stop was working although that was Saturday. From what I have read here if you connect to the ground on the body you will not bypass the BMS and it may only charge to 80% or whatever the default is. If the start/stop does not work below 70% you don't need to lose much charge to lose that function.
 

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cyberdog

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Something I noticed monitoring my battery after performing a 'Recovery' using my little 10 amp charger/conditioner (nearly 8 hours mind you) is that I don't believe the truck even attempted to send a charge into the battery until it fell to around 60%, then brought it back up. The monitor software's graph is interesting to say the least. The battery voltage dropped steadily and fairly quickly until 60% and then climbs upwards.

Hey, but at least my fully charged battery kept 90% charge for two days following the recovery/charge with the vehicle just sitting following reconnecting the battery, and locking it. - Didn't drive at from Saturday afternoon until this morning, so apparently my battery *might* be properly holding a charge.
 

MavTime

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After charging it to 13.2v solid green, I reconnected to the cables the voltage drops to read 12.5v so maybe that is the maximum charge level set in the BMS? Reading it with a multimeter. Now I am letting it sit reconnected for 6-8 hours so it can recalibrate or whatever it is doing.
 

paneubert

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Is there a quick breakdown of what you're supposed to do?
Short version of what the video says is.....

Put the trickle charger negative connection where it will flow the juice thru the BMS. Essentially, don't hook the negative to the actual battery negative post. Hook it somewhere on the other side of the BMS so that the juice needs to flow thru (and be seen) by the BMS. Otherwise the BMS needs the overnight/8 hours to be like "Woah, what the hell....where did all this energy come from?!?!? Last time I checked the battery was at 12.1V. Now it is at 12.8V. Some sort of sorcery.....but I suppose I will update the rest of the vehicle modules to work now that it is at a respectable charge level"
 

MakinDoForNow

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Something I noticed monitoring my battery after performing a 'Recovery' using my little 10 amp charger/conditioner (nearly 8 hours mind you) is that I don't believe the truck even attempted to send a charge into the battery until it fell to around 60%, then brought it back up. The monitor software's graph is interesting to say the least. The battery voltage dropped steadily and fairly quickly until 60% and then climbs upwards.

Hey, but at least my fully charged battery kept 90% charge for two days following the recovery/charge with the vehicle just sitting following reconnecting the battery, and locking it. - Didn't drive at from Saturday afternoon until this morning, so apparently my battery *might* be properly holding a charge.
Great news. What you did is what I think needs to be done two or three times a year to get max life out of battery. I had a 2012 Honda CRV that held battery charging after start (maybe sometimes more often, supposedly to help with mpg never confirmed why). battery would die 26-34 months unless put on maintenance charge for about five days or more three times a year. Some have reported that after truck sits for 24 hours sometimes not always battery will be charged above the normal 80(?)% charge. If so I assume Ford is periodically bringing to close to max charge to keep battery health. As a side note my brother in law is having lights not coming on sometimes in his 2019 loaded GMC SUV. Might be same type issues we are experiencing. I did see on Odyssey website that the maintenance slow blink top off charge could take as much as 96 hours. I do not know which battery though.
 

MavTime

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Short version of what the video says is.....

Put the trickle charger negative connection where it will flow the juice thru the BMS. Essentially, don't hook the negative to the actual battery negative post. Hook it somewhere on the other side of the BMS so that the juice needs to flow thru (and be seen) by the BMS. Otherwise the BMS needs the overnight/8 hours to be like "Woah, what the hell....where did all this energy come from?!?!? Last time I checked the battery was at 12.1V. Now it is at 12.8V. Some sort of sorcery.....but I suppose I will update the rest of the vehicle modules to work now that it is at a respectable charge level"

Thank you, I'm just trying to get back to a baseline max charge to see how long it takes to enter a low power state again and start seeing the signs or warnings. I'm thinking about getting one of these and just leaving it in the car bolted to the positive terminal and the chassis ground so it goes beyond the BMS sensor. Seems cheaper than getting a new battery and I could plug it in as needed. https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2D-Direct-Mount-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B07W3QSMF9/
 
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MavTime

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Just checking to see if I am doing this correctly, I fully charged the battery, disconnected from the car, and let it sit connected for a day to recalibrate. I just saw this in another post from the Owner's Manual, so I just tried this too and I never got it to flash the battery icon at the end. I ordered a cable for Forscan but it arrives Thursday. Has anybody done the sensor reset below?

EDIT: It worked, you just have to wait and do nothing after pressing and releasing the brake 3 times, wait and watch the battery light, after about 10 seconds it will finally blink.


Ford Maverick New 12V battery drain in 3 days! 1701198008846
 
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GPSMan

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This at first key turn:

Ford Maverick New 12V battery drain in 3 days! IMG_8916


This after 40 minutes drive:
Ford Maverick New 12V battery drain in 3 days! IMG_8918


This after 80 minutes of driving:
Ford Maverick New 12V battery drain in 3 days! IMG_8919

Hard to see the last one due to shutter speed sync but I think you can make out 58% charge and zero amps going into the 12v battery.

BUT THE TRUCK STARTS AND GETS ME TO WORK EVERY DAY. SO YOU TELL ME: do I have an issue or not????
 

Skyline

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BUT THE TRUCK STARTS AND GETS ME TO WORK EVERY DAY. SO YOU TELL ME: do I have an issue or not????
As long as it does that, you don't have an issue. At least, that's the attitude I have with similar battery/charging issues on the EB 2.0....
 

Silver23

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This at first key turn:

IMG_8916.jpeg


This after 40 minutes drive:
IMG_8918.jpeg


This after 80 minutes of driving:
IMG_8919.jpeg

Hard to see the last one due to shutter speed sync but I think you can make out 58% charge and zero amps going into the 12v battery.

BUT THE TRUCK STARTS AND GETS ME TO WORK EVERY DAY. SO YOU TELL ME: do I have an issue or not????
wow, at that high of voltage I would say it can't be anything but 100% SOC. I think for some strange reason the truck thinks it's 58 but it's not correct.
It shows 0 amps so the converter doesn't seem to be feeding it.

The truck is shut off correct? If so I wouldn't worry about it.
 

23grayXLT84

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In a semirelated question, are the 12v pigtails in you bed hot all the time? I asked that question in another post because the ones in my 2022 Hybrid were hot all the time and I had deep sleep all the time. The pigtails in my 2024 Hybrid are not hot unless the ignition is on and I have had zero battery issues.
That is interesting though
This at first key turn:

IMG_8916.jpeg


This after 40 minutes drive:
IMG_8918.jpeg


This after 80 minutes of driving:
IMG_8919.jpeg

Hard to see the last one due to shutter speed sync but I think you can make out 58% charge and zero amps going into the 12v battery.

BUT THE TRUCK STARTS AND GETS ME TO WORK EVERY DAY. SO YOU TELL ME: do I have an issue or not????

I have been checking mine, and so far after my first deep sleep I trickle charged 2x. Left the truck untouched for almost 12 hours (8 minimum for relearn). And so far lowest voltage I have seen is 12.3. today after two days of 80mile drives (160 total) it's at 12.5.

Trickle charged twice because 1st time I didn't really follow that relearn procedure.

I have said it before. If BMS logic is poor it would be an easy fix for Ford..... they sold almost 2million cars last year. On forums it looks like a widespread issue on many models. That's a ton of $$$ on warranty ....
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