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GPSMan

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wow, at that high of voltage I would say it can't be anything but 100% SOC. I think for some strange reason the truck thinks it's 58 but it's not correct.
It shows 0 amps so the converter doesn't seem to be feeding it.

The truck is shut off correct? If so I wouldn't worry about it.
No the truck is on during those photos.
The DC/DC converter is providing the 15.x volts.

The minute I turn the key off it is 12.4v
12 hours later, 12.1 v.
 

Silver23

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No the truck is on during those photos.
The DC/DC converter is providing the 15.x volts.

The minute I turn the key off it is 12.4v
12 hours later, 12.1 v.
It's interesting how it shows 15 volts but it's not taking any current being the standing voltage is 12.4
My first guess would be the battery is bad and is not taking a full charge. 🤷‍♂️
How long can it sit before it starts shutting things off?
 

MakinDoForNow

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This at first key turn:

IMG_8916.webp


This after 40 minutes drive:
IMG_8918.webp


This after 80 minutes of driving:
IMG_8919.webp

Hard to see the last one due to shutter speed sync but I think you can make out 58% charge and zero amps going into the 12v battery.

BUT THE TRUCK STARTS AND GETS ME TO WORK EVERY DAY. SO YOU TELL ME: do I have an issue or not????
Since your battery has apparently NOT been at 100% so for several months this might be something to consider.
 

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GPSMan

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Since your battery has apparently NOT been at 100% so for several months this might be something to consider.
My battery has not been fully charged since mid-August. No fault of mine. I drive it 90 minutes a day, 5 days a week. Sometimes 6 days a week.

I like to experiment. But should I while this is under the 3/36 warranty is the internal debate I'm having. 🤔
 

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MakinDoForNow

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My battery has not been fully charged since mid-August. No fault of mine. I drive it 90 minutes a day, 5 days a week. Sometimes 6 days a week.

I like to experiment. But should I while this is under the 3/36 warranty is the internal debate I'm having. 🤔
I have not even put my 2022 first edition on my noco genius five but I have put it on my EB Tremor at less than 100 miles primarily because it had an AGM battery and fear of long term sitting damage from experience. It did take into 4th day for genius 5 to go into maintenance mode not necessarily 100%. On my hybrid that I had the 23E09 done about 8 weeks ago is now showing dash power point voltage in am of 12.3-12.5 vs 11.8-12.1 before 23E09. No proof or claim by Ford dealer anything was done for it but work order had my claim of less than 12v on some mornings. Also at prior oil change dealer showed battery cca was down to 411 from 470 rating so it's possible it was put on charger by tech during the 6.5 hours it was in rear. Nothing shown on paperwork. Do not have current cca reading either. I am in better shape than you but want it to fail in warranty 3/36 not a month or more later if it's going to.
I speculate that Ford works the 12v from 60% to 80-85% regularity and periodically maybe monthly top it off (some of the middle of night clicking providing dcdc power to top battery) running slow trickle to keep battery healthy.
 

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I don't think there is any intentional magic hocus pocus fancy programming going on.

Just they missed the mark on something, had something unanticipated occur and/or poor quality control. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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I don't think there is any intentional magic hocus pocus fancy programming going on.

Just they missed the mark on something, had something unanticipated occur and/or poor quality control. 🤷🏻‍♂️
Ahhh but they could have hired a two thumbs up gammer programer and the dang computer and sensors apparently run incessantly. The last 5-8% top off charge needs to be at less than 13.8volts so there would need to be a bms controlled buck converter to stabilize voltage at battery positive or just use dcdc converter in middle of night. Depending on soc of HVB as well as 12v it might take several nights. Everything including your options are possible. In my past I was a programmer and did mundane hocus pocus so I could sleep at nights. Had an AC flywheel powered generator which powered all equipment that could provide needed current for 45 seconds for mainframe and all tape/disc drives printers etc. I had relay that would trip on power failure giving my interrupt routine time to halt up to 27 programs (small mainframe system) take restart check points and safely close all open files restart programs where interrupted. Could be in operation in few minutes after power restored with exception of 1200 card per minute optical reader/sorter that had to run about 1.5 hours for frictional heat to stabilize timing parameters.
 

GPSMan

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And yet batteries lasted 5-7 years on average for the first 100 years without a BMS.....
 

MavTime

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This at first key turn:

IMG_8916.jpeg


This after 40 minutes drive:
IMG_8918.jpeg


This after 80 minutes of driving:
IMG_8919.jpeg

Hard to see the last one due to shutter speed sync but I think you can make out 58% charge and zero amps going into the 12v battery.

BUT THE TRUCK STARTS AND GETS ME TO WORK EVERY DAY. SO YOU TELL ME: do I have an issue or not????

I am seeing something similar, and ours both seem to be charging a little, but never reaching full charge. It feels like it could just be very subtle and gradual and maybe the car recalibrates at some lower point and it keeps incrementally ratcheting down capacity. After my last full charge and letting it sit and doing the sensor reset it seemed to be better, but in the past few days the resting voltage seems to be dropping. It was 12.3-12.5v, now if I get in it might show 11.8-12.0v so it might drop more from there. It also might stabilize like yours seems to be. As long as I don't get deep sleep warnings or no interior lights I don't care if it wants to sit below 12v.
 
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MakinDoForNow

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And yet batteries lasted 5-7 years on average for the first 100 years without a BMS.....
Ahhh yes the good old days. I had a bud in high school whose father rebuilt batteries. He stayed in the business after his dad passed. In late 50's you could swap out your old battery for a refurbished for $8-$12. He could dismantle and select a new matched set and have rebuilt ready to go in a few days depending on his stock needs. He had a good sideline for shooters and fishermen. I think it was 1992 before I purchase a brand new battery.
 

GPSMan

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Funny how maintenance free ≠ trouble free.
 

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I just feel like I am chasing my tail with this issue. If it is an issue at all. I have no idea.

So, purchased a Lokithor LifePro4 2200A Battery Jumper Amazon was practically giving away for 53 bucks including the carrying case on Cyber Monday. Gonna keep it in the truck under the rear seat. Cannot get too cold or too hot for a LifePro4 battery. Just gonna run it and charge occasionally and leave the Fluke in the tool bag. To hell with it. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 

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Reading through this thread, there is a lot of mis-understood information that is leading people to the wrong conclusions. Just for "fun", I tested my battery basically twice a day for a little over a month. Here is what I learned:

1) When 100% charged, the OEM lead-acid battery has a max voltage of 12.65V. If you are seeing anything higher than that when not driving, you are seeing a "surface charge" which is not relevant. It takes about 3 hours after a battery is charged for the surface charge to fully disipate (but most seems to be gone after the first hour). If you have an AGM, the voltage will be higher (13.1V?).

2) Under normal driving conditions, the BMS will not fully charge the battery. As pointed out, it seems to only charge the battery to about 80%. This bad for the longevity of the battery since sulfation starts at about this range and rapidly increases below this amount. I have zero idea as to why Ford engineers did this (I assume it is something the lawyers made them do) but it will result in batteries dieing earlier than they should. I use my trickle battery charger to try to get my batter to 100% at least once a month.

3) Unless you physically disconnect the battery from the vehicle, getting an accurate and repeatable voltage is really, really hard. To get an accurate voltage with the battery connected you basically need to get in, lock the doors, make sure that everything is off, and then wait 5 minutes before checking the voltage under the seat. During that 5 minutes you will hear numerous clicks as the truck slowly shuts stuff down. If you have a voltmeter attached for this entire time, you will see at least 3 significant changes in voltage. You may even see the voltage go up, then down, and then up again (i.e., something turn off, then on, then off again). Generally speaking, if you just hop in the truck and check the underseat voltage, it will read somewhere between .1V and .2V lower than the battery actually is (due to current draw from who-knows-what).

4) Under-seat voltage and under-hood voltage are slightly different (by about .05V). This difference is a little more than I would expect from wire resistance so the BMS is effecting things somehow.

5) The parasitic draw of the Maverick is pretty high (much, much higher than any other vehicle I have owned). With absolutely everything off that you can turn off (no wifi, no call home, no app, nothing...) and the truck locked, you can expect to loose roughly .05V a day (but have seen up to .1V in a day). If you don't lock your truck, expect to see closer to .1V loss. If you have wifi, the Ford app, and other stuff running then .1V to .2V loss each day would not be unexpected. Based on what others have reported, the truck gives the low voltage warning at 11.8V. Thus, if you have a good battery but it is not fully charged, you can get the warning between 3 days and 14 days depending on what you have turned on and if the truck is locked or not.
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