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rknrbt

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It is indeed a complicated issue. The update Ford has for their air condition control module fixes most of them. However there are a few that will drain a battery overnight randomly. They may go several days with no problem. Then all of a sudden the battery is stoned dead the next morning. Those are the difficult ones. But the AGM battery helps most applications. And the update fixes even more of them. But the stubborn hold out challenge even the best of us technicians
It will still probably help if they would update the charging software to charge to more than 85%. I think the lousy batteries are most of the problem though. One week with the AGM so too soon to tell on my part.
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It is indeed a complicated issue. The update Ford has for their air condition control module fixes most of them. However there are a few that will drain a battery overnight randomly. They may go several days with no problem. Then all of a sudden the battery is stoned dead the next morning. Those are the difficult ones. But the AGM battery helps most applications. And the update fixes even more of them. But the stubborn hold out challenge even the best of us technicians

As I stated in my original post: bumping SOC target level to 100% using Forscan plus replacing the FLA battery with an AGM battery solved it completely on my end. Zero unexpected deep sleeps or warnings in now 18 months since I installed that battery. Now it will only go to sleep after sitting for two weeks or more (happened twice thus far)

The issue you are referring to with the battery suddenly going stone dead might still be related to the poorly designed/manufactured main battery cable connection between the 12V battery and the main fuse block under the hood. This issue is well known. That cable as installed has soldered on (not crimped on!) eyelets and has been subject to a Ford campaign as many of them are basically falling off the conductor strands, but staying mostly connected due to the tape around it. At the time, when diagnosed, Ford replaced the cable free of charge (they did mine, I had that same sudden dead battery issue) and that completely resolved it for me: it hasn't happened since it was replaced 3 years ago.

It is very well possible there are many more of these poorly made cables out there that have not been diagnosed. This problem being more widespread than just the 2022 models (according to Ford) would not surprise me at all either. These cable terminals should really be crimped in my opinion.

Cheers!
 

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As I stated in my original post: bumping SOC target level to 100% using Forscan plus replacing the FLA battery with an AGM battery solved it completely on my end. Zero unexpected deep sleeps or warnings in now 18 months since I installed that battery. Now it will only go to sleep after sitting for two weeks or more (happened twice thus far)

The issue you are referring to with the battery suddenly going stone dead might still be related to the poorly designed/manufactured main battery cable connection between the 12V battery and the main fuse block under the hood. This issue is well known. That cable as installed has soldered on (not crimped on!) eyelets and has been subject to a Ford campaign as many of them are basically falling off the conductor strands, but staying mostly connected due to the tape around it. At the time, when diagnosed, Ford replaced the cable free of charge (they did mine, I had that same sudden dead battery issue) and that completely resolved it for me: it hasn't happened since it was replaced 3 years ago.

It is very well possible there are many more of these poorly made cables out there that have not been diagnosed. This problem being more widespread than just the 2022 models (according to Ford) would not surprise me at all either. These cable terminals should really be crimped in my opinion.

Cheers!
Thát was addressed already by the previous dealership
 

rknrbt

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My '24 XLT got a Ford warranty replacement lead/acid after only 10 months in service...
Yeah, that is what the replacement is even though they now have the AGM readily available. I know one guy who is on his 5th battery. Until Ford gets rid of these defective batteries the problem will continue.
 

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Yeah, that is what the replacement is even though they now have the AGM readily available. I know one guy who is on his 5th battery. Until Ford gets rid of these defective batteries the problem will continue.
There is nothing wrong with the batteries, it's the faulty BMS that is chronically undercharging them and leaving them sulfated and unable to hold a charge.
 

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There is nothing wrong with the batteries, it's the faulty BMS that is chronically undercharging them and leaving them sulfated and unable to hold a charge.
Yep, the AGM will furnish current longer because it has a higher specific gravity electrolyte with greater voltage range of operation. It would be interesting to see how much liquid has "disappeared" from the OEM "enhanced" batteries. May keep one of mine and check it out when it's replaced (if not surrendered for warranty).
 

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Yep, the AGM will furnish current longer because it has a higher specific gravity electrolyte with greater voltage range of operation. It would be interesting to see how much liquid has "disappeared" from the OEM "enhanced" batteries. May keep one of mine and check it out when it's replaced (if not surrendered for warranty).
I have the original battery in my hybrid Maverick that was purchased on 3/9/22. (into my 4th year) yes, my truck is in sleep mode most of the time, but always starts, and the interior light go on when I push the start button on my Lariat. As long as my truck don't snore, it can sleep as long as it wants!
 

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Yep, the AGM will furnish current longer because it has a higher specific gravity electrolyte with greater voltage range of operation. It would be interesting to see how much liquid has "disappeared" from the OEM "enhanced" batteries. May keep one of mine and check it out when it's replaced (if not surrendered for warranty).
Given that the BMS programming never allows the battery to even get to 80% charge and that EFL batteries have a built-in catalyst to reform water out of the outgassed hydrogen and oxygen, I would very much doubt that there is any significant liquid loss when you look. The side-effect of the BMS programming error is that the battery sulfates and will no longer hold a good charge, and that's why people keep complaining about the crummy batteries. Its not the batteries, its the BMS programming error.
 

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Given that the BMS programming never allows the battery to even get to 80% charge and that EFL batteries have a built-in catalyst to reform water out of the outgassed hydrogen and oxygen, I would very much doubt that there is any significant liquid loss when you look. The side-effect of the BMS programming error is that the battery sulfates and will no longer hold a good charge, and that's why people keep complaining about the crummy batteries. Its not the batteries, its the BMS programming error.
The problem with reformed water is remixing to keep the specific gravity uniform within the battery and not stratified. Surely the BMS has a destratify routine. In any case I will continue to use my noco g5 every 60-90 days. I had a H 2012 CRV. 12v would last about 24-30 months in it. The last battery was on 61st month of service when I put my noco on it every 90-120 days.
 
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There is nothing wrong with the batteries, it's the faulty BMS that is chronically undercharging them and leaving them sulfated and unable to hold a charge.
In some cases it's a persistent draw that will deplete the battery within a few days. Even when sitting overnight it will pull it down significantly essentially treating it like a deep cycle battery. The deep cycles will sulfate a battery too. The low state of charge isn't noticeable at first because it doesn't take much power at all from the 12v battery to start the hybrid since it's started by the high voltage battery . All it needs from the 12v battery is enough power to wake the modules up. So by the time the degraded state of the 12v battery is noticed, it's completely gone. I admit that it doesn't replenish the battery as quickly as most charging systems. But on those that don't have a significant draw, the battery usually remains at a full charge.
Given that the BMS programming never allows the battery to even get to 80% charge and that EFL batteries have a built-in catalyst to reform water out of the outgassed hydrogen and oxygen, I would very much doubt that there is any significant liquid loss when you look. The side-effect of the BMS programming error is that the battery sulfates and will no longer hold a good charge, and that's why people keep complaining about the crummy batteries. Its not the batteries, its the BMS programming error.
If the bms monitor is reset. The battery will indeed reach well over 80% if given enough time. The problem is that they are drained deeply and have to replenish more current than designed. It can be compared to if you leave your headlights on for 15 minutes everyday after you shut your vehicle off. Even if your alternator on a conventional car replenishes it, the battery was still have a relatively short life, especially if it's a somewhat small battery anyway. If a vehicle is working right, if you shut it off at 85%, it should still be close to 85% the next morning. It shouldn't have to charge from 50% every day. If it did it would kill the battery fairly quickly
 

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There must be MORE of an issue than BMS set to 80 percent. If that was it why not set it to 100 percent? Must be a reason ford wont do that. .

I had battery replaced and AC service bulletin done on my 2023 xlt hybrid August 1st 2025,. So far the battery is holding voltage as I have digital readout on 12 volt cig lighter. Plus the cig lighter stays powered for over an hour after shut down. Before it would shut down after Mav shut off and open door.

Did the service bulletin fix my mav? I doubt it, Seems like what you said its not charging the darn battery enough/ BUT Must be a reason Ford wont allow it.
 

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It will still probably help if they would update the charging software to charge to more than 85%. I think the lousy batteries are most of the problem though. One week with the AGM so too soon to tell on my part.
The Ford SOC % value PID of 85% is actually the reading for a fully charged new battery.

The 80% value is likely the point that it's supposed to drop to topping or float charge while driving - which is correct - you don't charge any battery full blast 10A up to it's full charge.
If that value is actually used on the pre25MY - other posters made the change way back also, and saw no difference with their FLA battery.
AGM seems to be the benefit to the 2 things changed at the same time.

But from what I've seen in the readings - the system is tracking higher than reality.
So when the system thinks it's dropping to topper charge because it's almost full - it actually dropped too early. Therefore undercharged.

So the 100% setting if even used, would just be compensating for that effect.

I'd be curious what @mav47 shows in the truck PID for 12V SOC% some morning.
 
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HeyBales

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In some cases it's a persistent draw that will deplete the battery within a few days. Even when sitting overnight it will pull it down significantly essentially treating it like a deep cycle battery. The deep cycles will sulfate a battery too. The low state of charge isn't noticeable at first because it doesn't take much power at all from the 12v battery to start the hybrid since it's started by the high voltage battery . All it needs from the 12v battery is enough power to wake the modules up. So by the time the degraded state of the 12v battery is noticed, it's completely gone. I admit that it doesn't replenish the battery as quickly as most charging systems. But on those that don't have a significant draw, the battery usually remains at a full charge.

If the bms monitor is reset. The battery will indeed reach well over 80% if given enough time. The problem is that they are drained deeply and have to replenish more current than designed. It can be compared to if you leave your headlights on for 15 minutes everyday after you shut your vehicle off. Even if your alternator on a conventional car replenishes it, the battery was still have a relatively short life, especially if it's a somewhat small battery anyway. If a vehicle is working right, if you shut it off at 85%, it should still be close to 85% the next morning. It shouldn't have to charge from 50% every day. If it did it would kill the battery fairly quickly
Even those reporting no Deep Sleep Mode on their old batteries - which are few and far between most posts - show low voltage on battery when measured, no where near what would be considered fully charged 12.6-.7 V on FLA. They just seem to maintain above the cutoff for DSM. (until winter!)
Obviously there could be a whole group with no battery problems that do indeed have fully charged batteries. For some reason I'm doubtful.

I tried testing that BMS reset last year after 2 months of use from new to me (but older battery), after reading about the battery issues and seeing my low SOC%. Did a full recharge, BMS reset, and BMS Relearn. Did it later after summer too, throwing a drive in there before the park. Didn't help - never tried to charge to 85% full charge.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/hybrid-12v-battery-charging.47437/post-874151

I could see that reset possibly helping if system stats are showing more charging than discharging has occurred - in which case the BMS might be holding back high charges. Back then mine was always more discharge than charge. New battery now - tad more charge Ah than discharge until this week - discharge total went up 1 before the charge total did. And battery has been dropping in V & SOC the whole time since install. So obviously not charging more than discharging - inaccurate readings/tracking algorithm.

There is a system PID for Quiescent Battery Current Low Range mA - for that time after the 75 min max going to sleep.
Which makes sense, there is also a PID for Cumulative Discharge Ah in Sleep Mode. So it tracks it.

That QST reading appears to be avg thru the entire time, not peak. Supposed to be 25-50 mA per service manual. Infrequently mine is down around the 25 mark. Most often above the 50 mark, with some shorter times around 85.
If the system never went into sleep mode, you don't get a new value, it shows the prior one.
Sometimes it must sleep after 20-30 min, as I will get a new value - those are usually the high ones - so indeed something isn't going to sleep fully when the system starts logging sleep mode.

But doing the math - if one can trust those readings - even 90 mA avg for say an entire day sitting, instead of expected say 25 mA on low end - 65 extra mA avg ain't much extra. Not even on say the 45 Ah smaller OEM battery.

So is the draw during the potential 75 min after each drive really that bad?
Funny it used to be frequent short trips was bad for battery due to crank use and lack of time to recharge, now with barely any "crank" power it's because of extra opportunities for high draw after each trip. Or is it?

So my last PID screen shot is showing discharging of 2 Ah during sleeping time, 4 Ah during system off (sadly it rounds to whole numbers).
So if the 2 Ah is comprised of somewhere between 25-85 mA avg usage for the probably 22 hrs of sleep time (1hr driving, 1 hr going to sleep), then the going to sleep time is double that draw for 1 hr of time.
But that means 50-170 mA avg for 1 hr - that still shouldn't be bad enough to be considered a deep draw.

To your point about charging from 50 to 85% SOC being hard on battery - well, at least the BMS system seems to give up much faster than that! - at least when it thinks (and there was) a bad battery. Amp levels drop quickly to unsustainable levels - seems the goal changes to 70%, then 57%, then it's dying. Got to point that anything more than a 10 min drive wasn't useful anymore as charge Amps were between 0 & 1 halfway thru.

I appreciate your reminders that many may not have been familiar with on older cars, get close to draining the battery & you aren't making it up quickly - and you did hurt the battery most likely.
And that's why I'm wondering if Ford is getting the proper perspective on this.
If they keep thinking it's only bad batteries from manufacturing (due to warranty replacements), or parasitic draws that kill a few - then they'll never think there is a need to examine the idea that undercharging created bad batteries to die, or made it easier for an infrequent parasitic draw to kill and ruin a battery earlier.
Then again - it's been said before, perhaps they know, and the slight undercharging provides an extra 1-2 mpg in the test loop drives for official reporting.
 

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Is setting the SOC to 100 necessary or could I just get by with replacing it with an AGM?
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