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Bcarder1948

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By the time I get my HyMav and get the Snug topper on I'm thinking the center mirror will be useless anyway.

Wonder if there is a fulltime rear camera?

Long time since I saw bare stud interior garages, thought the building code required a shearwall inside?😎
Did you get it. I ordered 8/23. No build date yet
 

grumpyunk

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Thanks for the write up. I'll probably use the same wiring setup to install my 7" Touchscreen dash cam that's currently in my Sporttrac. It also gives a slightly larger Mirror. For some reason I can't find it for sale anywhere anymore, as I bought mine off Amazon a few years ago for $45.

It's this one https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/Jeemak...nd-Rear-View-Vehicle-Recorder/PRD4IH8XVKX5UOC


https://photos.app.goo.gl/T1eH4v46TvsXcWw26
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fNRviLZbqJdYbCtY6
If you poke around on amazon/ebay, you can find the jeemak mirror, or their camera which has a built-in display. Price up about $15-16
 

macaroni_life

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Just FYI that's not a very good ground. It may appear to work just fine but you may also run into some odd glitches down the road.

A solid ground should be directly between the chassis and the nut/bolt (with some paint scraped away), not having a huge chunk of plastic between it. The stud also appears to be painted but it's impossible to see how far down the paint is on the threads.

I don't have my Mav yet to check, but there should be a 10mm bolt nearby under the dash for some factory grounds that you can use instead.
 

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Edd

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Thanks for the nice write up. I wonder if I could find a mirror with a usb.
Thinking mirror and power for a camera.
Ed
 

Old Fart

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Did you get it. I ordered 8/23. No build date yet
Nope, just a confirmation 8/23 and a fits package notification but not another word. Thank God my current ride is still in good shape.
 

TacoHolder

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You could add a USB tap and have a hard wire for your dash cam on the same circuit. Classic 2 birds 1 stone scenario. The way OP has it wired would even give you the option of using always hot or accessory power.

As someone else mentioned, the ground might not be in the best spot. It should be fine if the bolt is grounded under the plastic though.

DIY wiring jobs as clean as this really make my day. Great job!
 

TacoHolder

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Thanks for the nice write up. I wonder if I could find a mirror with a usb.
Thinking mirror and power for a camera.
Ed
Don't need a USB port on the camera. It would be better to use a 12V to 5V USB tap that can be tucked under the headliner or otherwise hidden somewhere along the wiring route.
 

jonathan1994

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Would the auto driving goodies be affected by this?
 
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Barracuda340

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I didnt need homelink buttons, so I got this Gentex mirror ran me $32 shipped and it was a dealer install kit for either a Forte, or a Sorrento. Obsoleted, auto dimming with compass off evilbay. 2 wire hook up. Body ground, ignition switched hot. Will be easy peasy to install when my truck arrives.

Ford Maverick Auto-Dimming Mirror installed 20220218_192418


Ford Maverick Auto-Dimming Mirror installed 20220218_192457


Ford Maverick Auto-Dimming Mirror installed 20220218_192302
 

Mymaverick2021

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Just finished up installing my auto-dimming mirror. Unfortunately I jumped the gun and ordered mine used off eBay a few days before someone found the cheap Kia mirror online but oh well. Was just under $60 shipped. Has auto dim, homelink, and a hidden compass as a bonus.

For power I ran 3 wires from the mirror down to the fuse box in the passenger footwell. For switched power I tapped into the #3 slot, and for constant I tapped into the #20 slot. For the ground I just used a ring terminal and put it on the bolt holding down the fuse panel.

I personally wanted my homelink to be on a constant circuit. I know some say someone can break into your car and open your garage but I park in the garage when Im home anyways. If you want to you can wire both of them to circuit 3 and only need to use one fuse tap.

Homelink is programmed and works perfectly as does the auto dimming feature. Just need to calibrate the compass and all will be good to go.

35F53D3C-85A6-46E2-8EEE-F2E79DB27B9E.jpeg


6E3AFCDA-1464-4521-BA63-80900E659A97.jpeg


BAA5F0D0-50A3-4852-9B50-7706FECF9D8F.jpeg
Question when you use the fuse tap does that replace the factory fuse or does it share the slot❓
 

clavicus

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Question when you use the fuse tap does that replace the factory fuse or does it share the slot❓
You will keep the original fuse in the 'bottom' part of the fuse tap, and your 'new' fuse goes in the top, in line with the outgoing wire to connect your device.

If you 'orient' the fuse tap correctly, these two fuses are isolated from each other and the system load will not blow your 'new' fuse, and your new device will not blow your original system fuse.

If you do the orientation wrong, then the issue is you are putting both the system load and your new fuse load both onto the original system fuse. It might not matter at all unless you are really pushing the limits of the combined total.

I gave a shot at making a video about that for the fuses people were tapping in the mavericks for ignition only (Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 micro2 fuses). You also can easily use Fuse 1/2 Micro3 fuse since it's ignition-only and unused by the system. For some reason people don't seem to be using that, maybe the Micro3 'seems' less common for fuse taps but I did it myself for my dashcam hardwire, like $12-15 for a Micro3 fuse tap kit.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...nition-only-power-spoiler-its-all-good.10366/

Ford Maverick Auto-Dimming Mirror installed 1645421940043


Ford Maverick Auto-Dimming Mirror installed 1645421947122
 

Mymaverick2021

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You will keep the original fuse in the 'bottom' part of the fuse tap, and your 'new' fuse goes in the top, in line with the outgoing wire to connect your device.

If you 'orient' the fuse tap correctly, these two fuses are isolated from each other and the system load will not blow your 'new' fuse, and your new device will not blow your original system fuse.

If you do the orientation wrong, then the issue is you are putting both the system load and your new fuse load both onto the original system fuse. It might not matter at all unless you are really pushing the limits of the combined total.

I gave a shot at making a video about that for the fuses people were tapping in the mavericks for ignition only (Fuse 3 and Fuse 6 micro2 fuses). You also can easily use Fuse 1/2 Micro3 fuse since it's ignition-only and unused by the system. For some reason people don't seem to be using that, maybe the Micro3 'seems' less common for fuse taps but I did it myself for my dashcam hardwire, like $12-15 for a Micro3 fuse tap kit.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...nition-only-power-spoiler-its-all-good.10366/

1645421940043.png


1645421947122.png
Very nice thanks for the detailed instructions 🤙
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