2000 Watt Removable Inverter Installation

[DavidLs]

jerrisn I have looked For a AGM Charge controller I only can find MPPT and PMW Both will if set up properly will charge a AGM Battery. I believe the 12 Battery in the Mav is Lead acid so I think I am OK. Since the PMW CC shuts down once 12v is reached. I see no issue. I guess I will find out. The Big Battery in the Mav is 48 Volt the 12 V PMW is way to low to charge it. I should be OK. I am in just the thought mode of this project. Baby Steps after that.

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[TedTX]

Just wondering would if a 30 amp Watt PMW Charge controller wires between the panels and the Jumper connection under the hood. Keep the 12 volt Battery desulfated/Charged and eliminate the deep sleep issue. Just in theory it should work?

Don’t use PWM it causes interference on all electric components, the problem isn’t desulfated nor charged. Deep sleep is a problem that is not safe to share, it will be some time to the problem to ‘magically’ fix itself

 

[DavidLs]

Thanks for the Advice

 

[jerrisn]

jerrisn I have looked For a AGM Charge controller I only can find MPPT and PMW Both will if set up properly will charge a AGM Battery. I believe the 12 Battery in the Mav is Lead acid so I think I am OK. Since the PMW CC shuts down once 12v is reached. I see no issue. I guess I will find out. The Big Battery in the Mav is 48 Volt the 12 V PMW is way to low to charge it. I should be OK. I am in just the thought mode of this project. Baby Steps after that.

The Hybrid battery voltage is actually closer to 450 volts, as per the documentation for removing the Hybrid battery from the 2022 Maverick, not 48 volts.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Yeah, most coffee pots take around 1500 watts. You can search Amazon for "Coffee Maker Low Watts". There are several that run 600 to 800 watts. The only one I found that would work on the truck's AC output is this one. It is 350 watts.

Mine will work on anything that has liquid in a cup/mug, coffee, tea, c ndl soup, pinto beans, ham in broth, etc.....

 

[TheWizziard]

That is food for thought. I will call The Ford Service center and ask them about putting a battery maintainer on it. The PMW Charge controller I use shut off when the Battery is charged up and since it a 12 Volt Battery I dont see much of a issue. But Better safe than sorry. I will call them. I just think is the battery is the only thing in the circuit there should not be a issue.

Please let us know what the Ford Service center tells you.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

jerrisn I have looked For a AGM Charge controller I only can find MPPT and PMW Both will if set up properly will charge a AGM Battery. I believe the 12 Battery in the Mav is Lead acid so I think I am OK. Since the PMW CC shuts down once 12v is reached. I see no issue. I guess I will find out. The Big Battery in the Mav is 48 Volt the 12 V PMW is way to low to charge it. I should be OK. I am in just the thought mode of this project. Baby Steps after that.

I have a noco genius 5. 5 watt and has selector button = on/std flood/AGM/Lithium/off and remembers prior settings. I think Noco is what my Ford dealer installs (probably a 2amp mounted permanently) but I am sure they will install whatever you want.. Noco keeps upgrading chargers so just check functions on what you buy. I use mine on mowers to a very large lead acid in my tractor which takes a out a week so I am going to upgrade to genius 10 amp. The 10 has a battery recovery mode BUT you need to remove battery from vehicle to use it due to higher voltages possibly affecting vehicle controls. The 5 I have has automatic "optimization" which helps destratify acid and works on sulfation issues. If left on mavericks 12v after showing full green light it will at least once a day blink while doing it thing. I'm sure some of this is to replace the periodic random draws. I have never used the 2amp on my hybrid but the 5 amp can take over a day not counting the optimizing.

 

[Dad]

They have inverters that plug into the 12v receptacle in the cabin. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that be a more convenient solution?

 

[TimeOutside]

They have inverters that plug into the 12v receptacle in the cabin. Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that be a more convenient solution?

I can't look up the max current draw of the outlet right now, but I can't see it being over 30 amps. 20 is more likely. That would mean a 240 or 360 watt inverter would be the largest it would support. Might as well just use the supplied 400 watt inverter supplied with the vehicle (at least mine). The setup I have will allow me a 4000 watt surge with 2000 watts continuous power.

 

[Dad]

I can't look up the max current draw of the outlet right now, but I can't see it being over 30 amps. 20 is more likely. That would mean a 240 or 360 watt inverter would be the largest it would support. Might as well just use the supplied 400 watt inverter supplied with the vehicle (at least mine). The setup I have will allow me a 4000 watt surge with 2000 watts continuous power.

I figured it would come down to your config being more powerful.

 

[paneubert]

@TimeOutside , any updates to/on your inverter setup? Have you played around with any more loads for any significant duration? I am thinking of putting something very similar together, possibly with the addition of a dedicated DC to DC converter (something like a Victron 12/12-Volt 18 amp) to charge a LiFePO4 battery as well. Main reason to add another DC to DC into the mix is it would allow me to precisely control the charging profile of the LiFePO4 battery. But then I think about how easy it would be to just plug a NOCO GENIUS 5 into the 120V inverter and let that charge the LiFePO4 battery. At the cost of the loss in efficiency of converting from DC to AC and then back to DC. Haha.

 

[TimeOutside]

Nothing new to report. I did run it for about a half-hour for some outdoor equipment. The draw was just a bit over the 400 watt inverter built into the truck, but I was busy and didn't have time to do any testing. I also tried to run my dust collector on it, but the surge tripped the inverter. The running wattage is about 1600 watts. I would have guessed the inverter could have handled the starting surge, but it didn't. The inverter manual states it will handle a 4k watt surge. I suspect the surge was less than 4k watts, but it was over 2k for too long. The dust collector does take a while to wind up. At some point I'll test to see what the surge value was and how long it lasts. I just haven't gotten around to it.

The main thing I want to get around to is put a decent load on it and while it is running keep a running log of the 12 volt battery's voltage. I'm curious how low the vehicle lets it drop before the high voltage battery recharges it, or if it is allowed to drop at all. Perhaps the high voltage battery feeds the 12 volt battery continuously. I don't know, so I'm curious.

In short, sorry, no real update.

 

[paneubert]

The main thing I want to get around to is put a decent load on it and while it is running keep a running log of the 12 volt battery's voltage. I'm curious how low the vehicle lets it drop before the high voltage battery recharges it, or if it is allowed to drop at all. Perhaps the high voltage battery feeds the 12 volt battery continuously. I don't know, so I'm curious.

This was my main/only real concern. I am confident in the HV battery and DC to DC converter's ability to feed the 2,000W inverter directly, but I worry a bit about the tiny 12v battery being squeezed in the middle. I mean....it is not like it is in series, so not literally in the middle, but even being parallel concerns me. Even if from a circuit diagram perspective there should not be a problem.......

Really, my hope would be that the 12v battery is only really there as an attachment point for the BMS/a trigger for the HV battery to keep it charged to an appropriate level, while running the inverter as a "side effect" of keeping the 12v battery full.

I am ALMOST considering swapping the stock 12v for my LiFePO4 just for/during testing purposes, since the LiFePO4 can be drawn down to essentially zero without harm. But then again, my LiFePO4 was about $350. So pricey mistake if I kill it. But I am sure the Ford BMS would have no idea what to do with a LiFePO4 being attached to it. Ha! This is where that secondary 12v DC to 12v DC converter would come into play.

 

[TimeOutside]

This was my main/only real concern. I am confident in the HV battery and DC to DC converter's ability to feed the 2,000W inverter directly, but I worry a bit about the tiny 12v battery being squeezed in the middle. I mean....it is not like it is in series, so not literally in the middle, but even being parallel concerns me. Even if from a circuit diagram perspective there should not be a problem.......

Really, my hope would be that the 12v battery is only really there as an attachment point for the BMS/a trigger for the HV battery to keep it charged to an appropriate level, while running the inverter as a "side effect" of keeping the 12v battery full.

I am ALMOST considering swapping the stock 12v for my LiFePO4 just for/during testing purposes, since the LiFePO4 can be drawn down to essentially zero without harm. But then again, my LiFePO4 was about $350. So pricey mistake if I kill it. But I am sure the Ford BMS would have no idea what to do with a LiFePO4 being attached to it. Ha! This is where that secondary 12v DC to 12v DC converter would come into play.

From my initial testing, I know the 12 volt battery isn't allowed to drain too far. I doubt it goes below 11 volts at the worst, but I don't know for sure.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

This was my main/only real concern. I am confident in the HV battery and DC to DC converter's ability to feed the 2,000W inverter directly, but I worry a bit about the tiny 12v battery being squeezed in the middle. I mean....it is not like it is in series, so not literally in the middle, but even being parallel concerns me. Even if from a circuit diagram perspective there should not be a problem.......

Really, my hope would be that the 12v battery is only really there as an attachment point for the BMS/a trigger for the HV battery to keep it charged to an appropriate level, while running the inverter as a "side effect" of keeping the 12v battery full.

I am ALMOST considering swapping the stock 12v for my LiFePO4 just for/during testing purposes, since the LiFePO4 can be drawn down to essentially zero without harm. But then again, my LiFePO4 was about $350. So pricey mistake if I kill it. But I am sure the Ford BMS would have no idea what to do with a LiFePO4 being attached to it. Ha! This is where that secondary 12v DC to 12v DC converter would come into play.

The small 12v is used to close the contacts to the HVB which allows the DCDC converter to provide up to 15.6v so very little is drawn from trucks 12v. Then when HVB drops to 30% soc the ice is started to recharge the HVB. The ice could be started earlier to warm things up. The 12v BMS may or may not start recharge. The full amp charge/recharge of HVB will be held back until HVB internal Temp allows it. So you are correct in that the 12v is an attachment point for it's BMS and the BMS can request it's minimum desired voltage.
Also. Over a year ago a member custom built a LiFePO4 with its own BMS (Do not remember if Ford 12v BMS was retained but believe it was,). The DcDc converter rated 265 amp continuous fed through a 300 or 350;amp fuse and a 200 amp fuse at 12v battery. He fed his LiFePO4 with 100 amps. He reported after 3 or 4 months that he had "toasted" his LiFePO4 and would build another when he had time. So far he has not updated. I do not remember the name of his thread. He was using his custom battery heavily while camping, etc. if I remember correctly his was around 700ah.
Edit to add: member was acelee1895

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