Turbo Nag

[Meeka]

Not under the pedal, but on the other end. In the 70's there was a mechanical connection (rod, cable or linkage) from near the carburetor to the transmission. Often there was also a WOT (Wide-Open Throttle) switch on the accelerator linkage to cutout the AC for more power.

On my ‘80 Camaro’, it had those doors on the hood that opened up when you punched it, snorkel hood, couldn’t tell a difference! Sounds cool, but… that’s all!

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[Chops]

Today's vehicles to the same thing under WOT, but it's electronically controlled from the throttle position sensor input.

So to avoid lugging - just punch the pedal hard like you mean it!?!

I use my paddle shifters in Sport & Manual Mode. Much easier to put the revs in the right place to avoid lugging.

 

[Tbone289]

So to avoid lugging - just punch the pedal hard like you mean it!?!

I use my paddle shifters in Sport & Manual Mode. Much easier to put the revs in the right place to avoid lugging.

Tow/haul and sport modes will avoid low RPMs before you punch the throttle. Since it's an automatic, yes, punching it will force a downshift to high RPM as well.

 

[Cougar70]

Thanks for explanation. My 1970 Nova automatic would “kick down” a gear when flooring it. I thought it actually had a button on floor under the gas pedal - but I might be misremembering that

It is becoming more fun to master a modern automatic transmission than it is to drive a stick shift. Although some will disagree with that.

A lot of older cars had a 'kickdown' linkage connected to the throttle linkage, where it would downshift when pressing the gas pedal to the floor.

As for the automatic versus manual, I adjust to whichever one I'm using.
I do prefer a manual, since I know what I'm about to do before the automatic does.
In my commuting, I do prefer and automatic to save my left foot!! Lol!

 

[Phimosis]

How many EB owners follow the Five Rules of Turbo Care:

ONE…Proper Warmup…don’t start driving until high idle concludes and take it easy until oil warms up (couple miles). EDIT: See post #4 below for TBones better way to perform rule ONE.

TWO…Proper Cooldown…don’t turn off ignition until high idle concludes. Don’t forget to turn off AC or high idle will continue indefinitely.

THREE…89 or higher octane…I’m a 91 guy.

FOUR…Change oil more often…3,000mi interval is ideal.

FIVE…Don’t lug your engine…downshift before giving it the beans.

Hopefully, we are all good turbo owners. And remember, I did not make these rules - expert mechanics & engineers did​

I don’t do any of these things.

I start it up and drive normally. If I end up in a jam, where I need to use full throttle, I use full throttle, even if the engine is cold.

When I get to my destination, I shut the car off. I’ve never once thought about sitting there and letting the car idle. I’ve got places to go and things to do. I arrive, I shut car off, I leave car and get on with life.

When it comes to gas, I always use 87 octane. I tried 91 a few times and couldn’t notice any difference in performance or mpg. So I use 87 octane on a daily basis.

I change the oil when the reminder light tells me to. I’ve had my ecoboost maverick for 14 months now and the light hasn’t come on yet, so my Maverick has not had even one oil change yet.

And when it comes to boost, I try to open the throttle smoothly so that it will stay in a higher gear and build boost at low rpm, as that is the most fuel efficient way to deliver power. I have 100% faith in Ford’s engineers to program the engine and transmission management software to prevent “low-speed pre-ignition” that small displacement, direct injected turbo engines are prone to.

So yeah, not a care in the world about these 5 rules of turbo cars. Why? Because I’ve done 150k miles in turbo cars like this with no problems.

 

[Chops]

I change the oil when the reminder light tells me to. I’ve had my ecoboost maverick for 14 months now and the light hasn’t come on yet, so my Maverick has not had even one oil change yet.

I have 100% faith in Ford’s engineers…

I pity the fool who buys one of your turbo cars used.

5 rules to ask the owner of a used turbo vehicle.

If they don’t follow - don’t buy

 

[Phimosis]

I pity the fool who buys one of your turbo cars used.

5 rules to ask the owner of a used turbo vehicle.

If they don’t follow - don’t buy

If some numb skull starts asking me these questions…. And he’s in a position to be buying my car, I know exactly what to say to make music to his ears. Not my first rodeo.

But full disclosure, I never private party my cars. Tried it a few times when I was younger and legit buyers are so few and far between that the small price difference is not worth the wasted time.

 

[Chops]

If some numb skull starts asking me these questions…. And he’s in a position to be buying my car, I know exactly what to say to make music to his ears. Not my first rodeo.

But full disclosure, I never private party my cars. Tried it a few times when I was younger and legit buyers are so few and far between that the small price difference is not worth the wasted time.

Rule #6

When buying a used turbo vehicle - ask for maintenance records not “music”

Oil changes every 3-5k miles or 6-12 months. If not available - keep looking. Don’t be a “numb skull”

Not my first rodeo either…

 

[Blue_Max]

Rule #6

When buying a used turbo vehicle - ask for maintenance records not “music”

Oil changes every 3-5k miles or 6-12 months. If not available - keep looking. Don’t be a “numb skull”

Not my first rodeo either…

Just out of curiosity, how long do you tend to keep your well-maintained turbo-powered vehicles, and what makes you get rid of them?

 

[Chops]

Just out of curiosity, how long do you tend to keep your well-maintained turbo-powered vehicles, and what makes you get rid of them?

This is my first turbo. My history:
1970 used Nova - drove it into the ground…towed away
1979 Volvo 242DL - my first new car. Drove it into ground too.
1996 S10 - traded it in on a Pontiac Aztec
2000 Aztec leased company car”
2004 Vibe - made in the Fremont plant joint venture with Toyota…my 3rd 200,000mi+ car
2019 Canyon - my first car in retirement…sold it after 5yrs/20k miles
2020 Corolla Hatchback 6MT - my first manual & weekend car. Sold it after 2k miles after breaking my shoulder. Fun car!
2024 Corolla Hatchback CVT. Traded in my Canyon even steven for this car.
2025 Lobo - traded my 2024 Corolla.

If you have read this far - you’ll see i am keeping my cars for fewer years as I age I hope to keep my Lobo for at least 5yrs / 15,000 mi estimated.

The folks who bought my previous 3 cars received very well maintained vehicles. Hopefully they appreciate my efforts

Whoever buys my Lobo someday will also get a very well maintained vehicle. Hope they like Air Design functional vents & non functional hood scoop and strut brace etc etc.

 

[Blue_Max]

This is my first turbo. My history:
1970 used Nova - drove it into the ground…towed away
1979 Volvo 242DL - my first new car. Drove it into ground too.
1996 S10 - traded it in on a Pontiac Aztec
2000 Aztec leased company car”
2004 Vibe - made in the Fremont plant joint venture with Toyota…my 3rd 200,000mi+ car
2019 Canyon - my first car in retirement…sold it after 5yrs/20k miles
2020 Corolla Hatchback 6MT - my first manual & weekend car. Sold it after 2k miles after breaking my shoulder. Fun car!
2024 Corolla Hatchback CVT. Traded in my Canyon even steven for this car.
2025 Lobo - traded my 2024 Corolla.

If you have read this far - you’ll see i am keeping my cars for fewer years as I age I hope to keep my Lobo for at least 5yrs / 15,000 mi estimated.

The folks who bought my previous 3 cars received very well maintained vehicles. Hopefully they appreciate my efforts

Whoever buys my Lobo someday will also get a very well maintained vehicle. Hope they like Air Design functional vents & non functional hood scoop and strut brace etc etc.

Given that this is your first turbo, what makes you so confident in your rules?

 

[Chops]

Given that this is your first turbo, what makes you so confident in your rules?

I did not make the rules silly - I learned them from the experts in the field. I’m not going to drive my first turbo car like a numb skull - that would be dumb.

Just “google” turbo care or watch a video from an expert.

 

[Bigcanoe]

None of the above.

 

[OR3X]

Thank you for taking the time to write up this post and present these rules to us Chops.

How many EB owners follow the Five Rules of Turbo Care:

ONE…Proper Warmup…don’t start driving until high idle concludes and take it easy until oil warms up (couple miles). EDIT: See post #4 below for TBones better way to perform rule ONE.

TWO…Proper Cooldown…don’t turn off ignition until high idle concludes. Don’t forget to turn off AC or high idle will continue indefinitely.

THREE…89 or higher octane…I’m a 91 guy.

FOUR…Change oil more often…3,000mi interval is ideal.

FIVE…Don’t lug your engine…downshift before giving it the beans.

Hopefully, we are all good turbo owners. And remember, I did not make these rules - expert mechanics & engineers did​

THREE and FIVE... Chops just came in here to brag about all that money he has. 91 Octane and full synthetic oil change every 3000 miles... My man has DEEP pockets.

 

[Chops]

Thank you for taking the time to write up this post and present these rules to us Chops.

THREE and FIVE... Chops just came in here to brag about all that money he has. 91 Octane and full synthetic oil change every 3000 miles... My man has DEEP pockets.

I drive maybe 3000mi/yr tops and do my oil/filter changes myself for maybe $50 - so gas & oil/filter expenses are lower.

Now the AirDesign & Borla upgrades were pricey!

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