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Turbo Nag

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Chops

Chops

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I trust my Motorcraft full syn to leave a coating of oil on the bearings after sitting for weeks,

I do sixty second warm ups in the hot summer and five minutes in the cold winter,

I keep that oh so stupid stupid stop/start disabled at all times. When I belt in my hand is right there.
Click and Its off.

I do sixty second cool downs in any weather,

5,000 mile oil change Intervals, mostly to keep the turbo's two very small screen filters clean,

I run 93 octane ETHANOL FREE In the hot summer, for the easily felt performance gain.
I run regular 87 octane in the thick cold winter air.

Once a week I drive it like I stole it for ten to fifteen minutes. This wrecks my average mpg's,
But Its fun as ell'
:'P
Good on ya mate - you should be nagging me!
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No Brand

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matmondro

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I follow pretty much all of these rules too.

Will run 87 though for just regular commuting, then run 93 if I'm doing any towing.

Not only with it being turbocharged, but with the direct injection too, I'll give it the Italian tune-up on the freeway on a weekly basis just to clear it out LOL.
 

Cherokee

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I follow pretty much all of these rules too.

Will run 87 though for just regular commuting, then run 93 if I'm doing any towing.

Not only with it being turbocharged, but with the direct injection too, I'll give it the Italian tune-up on the freeway on a weekly basis just to clear it out LOL.
Italian tune-up ! Hahaha love that !

“ Bunch of outdated nonsense” Todd, There’s some wisdom in that,

With modern full synthetic oil the long warm ups of several minutes is prolly useless.

And I haven’t seen a tractor trailer blow a turbo in more than thirty years. But that last one was because the young driver didn’t listen to his elders and shut down a red hot turbo too soon.
 

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Tim d

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How many EB owners follow the Five Rules of Turbo Care:

ONE…Proper Warmup…don’t start driving until high idle concludes and take it easy until oil warms up (couple miles). EDIT: See post #4 below for TBones better way to perform rule ONE.

TWO…Proper Cooldown…don’t turn off ignition until high idle concludes. Don’t forget to turn off AC or high idle will continue indefinitely.

THREE…89 or higher octane…I’m a 91 guy.

FOUR…Change oil more often…3,000mi interval is ideal.

FIVE…Don’t lug your engine…downshift before giving it the beans.

Hopefully, we are all good turbo owners. And remember, I did not make these rules - expert mechanics & engineers did:)
I have followed none of those lol. Our maverick is my first turbo vehicle. 34, 000 miles not one issue so far.
 

James K

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How many EB owners follow the Five Rules of Turbo Care:

ONE…Proper Warmup…don’t start driving until high idle concludes and take it easy until oil warms up (couple miles). EDIT: See post #4 below for TBones better way to perform rule ONE.

TWO…Proper Cooldown…don’t turn off ignition until high idle concludes. Don’t forget to turn off AC or high idle will continue indefinitely.

THREE…89 or higher octane…I’m a 91 guy.

FOUR…Change oil more often…3,000mi interval is ideal.

FIVE…Don’t lug your engine…downshift before giving it the beans.

Hopefully, we are all good turbo owners. And remember, I did not make these rules - expert mechanics & engineers did:)
Good rules for a 1978 911 turbo.
 

lm126027

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Old information. Had the little Mercury Capri Convertible that had a 1.6 turbo (built in Australia back in the early 90s') and it did recommend the cool down, but only if you had been pushing the turbo, like high-speed highway driving. All of these recommendations are long gone, though I do use a higher octane than 87 when towing (all my towing is in the winter / snowmobile trailer). The Mav engine is prone to lugging as the transmission is programed (most settings) to keep it in a higher gear.
 

gjallen3

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The cool down is where I begin to question these rules. Here in AZ turning off the AC is not an option in the summer. Why do we have an Auto setting on our climate control? That rule would render the remote starter useless for me.
 
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EffNo50

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I follow most of these with exceptions. I never romp on my Maverick anyway to justify having a "proper cool-down." Turning off the A/C before the ignition is a bit excessive to me. Being in South Florida, that's not an option!

I simply drive to and from work and not much else. I use the extra power when absolutely necessary such as merging on the highway or going for a pass.

In regards to oil changes, the time comes first over the mileage. I'll usually schedule within the month after the date is due. I know that oil likes to dilute when it sits overtime no matter how much mileage is put on it.

I've used 89 octane no matter what car I drive. I tried 87 in my first EB Maverick and it was not happy about it!

For warmups, I just remote start it from my phone or key fob so by the time I get off my shift, it's at full temperature. Then, I take it easy for the first couple of minutes whether it'd be to or from work. I've been doing it for a while and have had no issues.
Current hybrid owner, but previous owner of a turbo vehicle.
Driving easy the first few minutes is good.
Driving easy before before shutting down is good.
Turning off the AC, not fan, is also good.
This applies to all vehicles, not just the boosted ones. I've had vehicles that get a sour smell in the AC. Turning it off in the last few blocks helps evaporate the moisture to reduce the growth that causes the sour smell. Your neighbors and engine would appreciate it if you didn't peel out of your driveway and down the street, or come in hot and drift back into your parking spot.
 

Shelbyv8

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Most of that is BS. Police cars are not turned off for 12 hours or longer, probably 70-80% is idleing. Don't need to warm up oil multiple weight oil takes care of that. I will go along with idleing before turn off, but I do that with all engines.
 

CajunMick

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All those points about turbo care essentially correct. I’m nit a big fan of turbo, especially on small engines, like these 125 cubic inch motorcycle like engines. Turbo makes the engines think they on steroids
 
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Chops

Chops

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[QUOTE
Can you explain how to do this in more detail?
“Lugging” is giving it the beans at low rpm (1500-2000)

Downshifting will get your revs up above that.

“Lugging the engine” puts the modern turbo engine under nasty mechanical & thermal stresses.

How to downshift to avoid lugging?

Good question for the folks with the 8speed automatic - how do you guys/gals do it?

I drive my Lobo using the paddle shifters. Downshifting is easy - press the “L” paddle:)

A manual “stick shift” is more complicated (or fun?) because you have a clutch pedal that needs to be depressed when downshifting (eg 6th gear to 5th)
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