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Eagle11

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Im still not satisfied with these cdt audio 6x9s. Still getting popping especially songs with extended deep bass. Starting to think they can't handle the wattage from the b&o amp. They are 125 rms and I think the amp is pushing out 150 to the sub.
IF you think the stock B&O is putting out true 125 watts then grasshopper, we need to talk. It might be the amp clipping have you felt the amp to see how hot it is?
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Hdang1980

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IF you think the stock B&O is putting out true 125 watts then grasshopper, we need to talk. It might be the amp clipping have you felt the amp to see how hot it is?
Yeah... It's warm...not hot enough to be concerned it's overheating.
 

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Im still not satisfied with these cdt audio 6x9s. Still getting popping especially songs with extended deep bass. Starting to think they can't handle the wattage from the b&o amp. They are 125 rms and I think the amp is pushing out 150 to the sub.
I remember answering your question in another thread. You do not have too much amp for those speakers. You probably are overextending them playing low bass. A 6x9 can most definitely play lower than a 4" but it's still not a real sub, and there's obviously differences between a small 8" sub and a 12". You're going to need a real subwoofer to get what you're looking for but in the meantime, turn the knob down a tad before you blow up that 6x9. (Hopefully not too late.)
 

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I f you order from Crutchfield they will supply all the connectors and adapter plates you need. I ended up fabricating my own. Look on ebay if you want the speakers cheaper. Infinity's are not Crutchfield's favorite.

In my opinion, the shop is the way to go if you are not looking for a bonding experience with your truck. The $150 is money well spent. They are less likely to break a clip than you.

The reference speakers are the ones to use. Kappas are better but they take heaps of power to run. If you added a big amp, that would be the way to go. Infinity might make a cheaper speaker but I would not use it.
 

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I remember answering your question in another thread. You do not have too much amp for those speakers. You probably are overextending them playing low bass. A 6x9 can most definitely play lower than a 4" but it's still not a real sub, and there's obviously differences between a small 8" sub and a 12". You're going to need a real subwoofer to get what you're looking for but in the meantime, turn the knob down a tad before you blow up that 6x9. (Hopefully not too late.)
I ended up biting the bullet and installed a powered sub, and also disconnected the factory B&O sub.
 

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I'm seriously truly shocked how much more bass this little setup adds to a vehicle. I've used it between the front seats of a 2003 Minivan with stock speakers and aftermarket HU as well as aftermarket HU with factory speakers in a 2000 Miata.

When I went to install first time I was EXTREMELY skeptical when I saw the size of the power wire- very tiny, smaller than most speaker wire. But it adds a healthy amount of low end without distortion. Won't shake the mirror or annoy the neighbors a block away but....

I've been using it since 2019.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Powerful.../43530754?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0

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I ended up biting the bullet and installed a powered sub, and also disconnected the factory B&O sub.
what model, and how do you like it? I've seen powered subs installed behind the rear bench back, in the seat tray, and on the floorboard behind the driver's seat. pretty much every powered sub should easily outdo the 6x9.
 

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what model, and how do you like it? I've seen powered subs installed behind the rear bench back, in the seat tray, and on the floorboard behind the driver's seat. pretty much every powered sub should easily outdo the 6x9.
My buddy had an old 10 inch no name brand one lying around he let me have. It's from a company called JCPower. My research about it says it's manufactured in Mexico. It sounds pretty decent, but not up to level I'm used to in my previous automobiles. I understand you have to lower your expectations when it comes to trucks with the limited space you have to work with. Nevertheless, it definitely fills in the missing lows in the music. I'll probably be on the lookout for $$$ deals for another 10 inch from a more reputable brand just to see if there's that big of a difference in sound quality. If there isn't then I'll just return it.
 

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My buddy had an old 10 inch no name brand one lying around he let me have. It's from a company called JCPower. My research about it says it's manufactured in Mexico. It sounds pretty decent, but not up to level I'm used to in my previous automobiles. I understand you have to lower your expectations when it comes to trucks with the limited space you have to work with. Nevertheless, it definitely fills in the missing lows in the music. I'll probably be on the lookout for $$$ deals for another 10 inch from a more reputable brand just to see if there's that big of a difference in sound quality. If there isn't then I'll just return it.
Not true, just depends if you want to lose the use of the rear seats OR don't use 10" or large subs. I have a 1996 Dodge Ram club cab (before 4 dr trucks were a thing) I had 5, 8" subs in a custom box with an Orion 2250 XTR running them. Just can't go very big.
 
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Hello!!! Can anyone advise me on where they took speaker wires from to run to an aftermarket line out converter then to the sub? I have the plug that jumps wire pig tails out of the factory amp, but still have yet to get sound.
 
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Hdang1980

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Hello!!! Can anyone advise me on where they took speaker wires from to run to an aftermarket line out converter then to the sub? I have the plug that jumps wire pig tails out of the factory amp, but still have yet to get sound.
Ford Maverick Upgrading the Maverick B&O Sound System - DIY Howto Screenshot_20220905-133935_Chrom
 

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Hello!!! Can anyone advise me on where they took speaker wires from to run to an aftermarket line out converter then to the sub? I have the plug that jumps wire pig tails out of the factory amp, but still have yet to get sound.
I used the b&o sub speaker line and a cheap stinger line out converter. My amp can accept speaker level directly but it involves cutting off the RCAs and I wasn't interested in that.

This worked great with my kicker 500.1 but it has a DSP so if the b&o has a crossover at like 30hz the amp will compensate.

Ford Maverick Upgrading the Maverick B&O Sound System - DIY Howto PXL_20221110_030859840
 

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The only thing keeping the PAC APH-FD02 from being plug and play is the external rib on the connectors not matching. You can just trim the harness itself and not need to make any modification to the vehicle side for reversibility. The electrical connections all match up aside from, obviously, the tweeters occupying what's labelled as the rear channel.
On the harness, the pink pair goes from one plug to the other and all the other wires are labeled with speaker connections. However, it looks to me like that pink pair is the sub. Am I crazy? Why is it the only connected pair?
 
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On the harness, the pink pair goes from one plug to the other and all the other wires are labeled with speaker connections. However, it looks to me like that pink pair is the sub. Am I crazy? Why is it the only connected pair?
The Pink wires are for CANBUS communication. Pins 5/15 are the subwoofer.

Ford Maverick Upgrading the Maverick B&O Sound System - DIY Howto 1675903602539


Also reminder that on the Maverick 10/20 are the Left Tweeter and 8/18 the Right Tweeter instead of being Rear channel. And 4/14 are unconnected; the center channel is direct off the APIM like the rears.
 
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