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What's a fancy sound system without throwing more money at it? The stock B&O setup is 'okay' if a little thin especially if you want more bass authority. So here's my effortpost from replacing nearly all the speakers. I'll defer to the existing writeups on removal/replacement. Only addition is the center channel where the panel just unclips and is retained by two 7mm socket screws.
The stock lineup, although I didn't grab pictures of all of them
Front: 6.5". Much more substantial than the lower trims magnet-wise, but otherwise fairly standard paper cone woofers. No ratings markings, but they meter as 4-ohm (3.7)
Dash tweeters: Similar design to the lower trims except the bass blocker capacitor is mostly enclosed by the plastic housing. No ratings. Measured on the low end of 4-ohms at 3.4.
Center: 3-1/2“, 12.5W @ 8-ohm.
Rear: 4", 25W @ 4-ohm. Has a filter cap attached but too enclosed to read.
I didn't bother pulling the stock subwoofer since I planned on leaving it in place while supplementing it.
Running off the B&O amp is the front door woofers, rear subwoofer, and most interestingly the front dash tweeters on what's normally the rear. If you want to run a bi-amp Kicker Key and upgraded sub as I did then your outputs are all conveniently in one spot with minimal new wiring required. PAC's APH-FD02 wiring harness matches up although it does require a bit of trimming on the connectors as the center rib is offset slightly. If you're doing a bi-amp Key remember that the tweeters go on the AMP1 channel so you'll be effectively wiring the rear channels (green/purple) of the adapter to the front (white/grey) input of the Key.
Now I couldn't find anything definitive on if the Key can use 4-channel input in bi-amp, and I don't have a fancy spectrum analyzer to verify if the B&O outputs were full range. That said when I tried the Key with both inputs connected and fader on it finally sounded "right".
The transplant list
JBL GTO609C component set for the front. I used one of the tweeter mounts included plus a little bit of 3M tape to get them to sit snugly in the stock spots.
Sony Xplod 4x6" in the rear. Not exactly a high-tier choice but an improvement for cheap. I could have printed something up but I got them mounted sturdy trimming off the 4" stock plastic bracket and screwing to the remaining posts.
JBL WS1000 compact 10" subwoofer in Atrend 10AME downfire enclosure. Fits nearly perfectly in the rear footwell. Limits seat movement rearward but matched my seating position. Hooked up to my trusty Pioneer GM-D601 mono amp. Gives some nice thump in the lumbar.
MB Quart FLB108 3-1/2“ for the center. The stock mounting location is a bit tight depending on speaker basket, but there's enough flex this tightened in. There also small alignment posts for stock that need to be removed (just snapped off easily). The vertical clearance here is limited so I had to cut the surround/grille off the MBs. These were another cheap pick especially since I only needed one. Decidedly clearer when boosting the midrange adjustment at least.
The stock lineup, although I didn't grab pictures of all of them
Front: 6.5". Much more substantial than the lower trims magnet-wise, but otherwise fairly standard paper cone woofers. No ratings markings, but they meter as 4-ohm (3.7)
Dash tweeters: Similar design to the lower trims except the bass blocker capacitor is mostly enclosed by the plastic housing. No ratings. Measured on the low end of 4-ohms at 3.4.
Center: 3-1/2“, 12.5W @ 8-ohm.
Rear: 4", 25W @ 4-ohm. Has a filter cap attached but too enclosed to read.
I didn't bother pulling the stock subwoofer since I planned on leaving it in place while supplementing it.
Running off the B&O amp is the front door woofers, rear subwoofer, and most interestingly the front dash tweeters on what's normally the rear. If you want to run a bi-amp Kicker Key and upgraded sub as I did then your outputs are all conveniently in one spot with minimal new wiring required. PAC's APH-FD02 wiring harness matches up although it does require a bit of trimming on the connectors as the center rib is offset slightly. If you're doing a bi-amp Key remember that the tweeters go on the AMP1 channel so you'll be effectively wiring the rear channels (green/purple) of the adapter to the front (white/grey) input of the Key.
Now I couldn't find anything definitive on if the Key can use 4-channel input in bi-amp, and I don't have a fancy spectrum analyzer to verify if the B&O outputs were full range. That said when I tried the Key with both inputs connected and fader on it finally sounded "right".
The transplant list
JBL GTO609C component set for the front. I used one of the tweeter mounts included plus a little bit of 3M tape to get them to sit snugly in the stock spots.
Sony Xplod 4x6" in the rear. Not exactly a high-tier choice but an improvement for cheap. I could have printed something up but I got them mounted sturdy trimming off the 4" stock plastic bracket and screwing to the remaining posts.
JBL WS1000 compact 10" subwoofer in Atrend 10AME downfire enclosure. Fits nearly perfectly in the rear footwell. Limits seat movement rearward but matched my seating position. Hooked up to my trusty Pioneer GM-D601 mono amp. Gives some nice thump in the lumbar.
MB Quart FLB108 3-1/2“ for the center. The stock mounting location is a bit tight depending on speaker basket, but there's enough flex this tightened in. There also small alignment posts for stock that need to be removed (just snapped off easily). The vertical clearance here is limited so I had to cut the surround/grille off the MBs. These were another cheap pick especially since I only needed one. Decidedly clearer when boosting the midrange adjustment at least.
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