Spare Tire Wisdom

[MetalsGeek]

Does the outside part of the wheel have to face down? Or is there a way to mount it up to protect it from road debris?

Short answer is yes. Wheels typically have a much deeper cavity on the inside, to make room for the brakes. The winch that winds up the cable holding the spare tire exists in this space, so the spare does have to have the pretty side down.
This distance between the inboard rim surface and wheel mounting face is called the backspace. The distance between the wheel center (midway between inboard & outboard rim surfaces) and the wheel mounting face is called the offset. If you put wider rims on a car, you may have to choose which one to preserve. Keeping the stock offset is best for the bearings because the wider tire remains centered where it was. Keeping the stock backspace may be required to avoid the inboard sidewall rubbing on the control arm in tight turns. Of course the outboard edge could also rub the fender well in turns. Blah blah blah. Sorry...

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[Old_Norm]

Should have checked where it's at on other trucks before the big whine.

Who buys a truck based on how the spare tire is lowered? Look up the word compromise.

 

[SLJ]

Does the outside part of the wheel have to face down? Or is there a way to mount it up to protect it from road debris?

Haven't tried it. I suppose it might if the cable cranks all the way up and the spool isn't in the way. You'd have to add a flex extension on the valve to check the pressure or add air if it was flipped the other way. Otherwise you'd have to drop it to check it.

 

[TwoTone]

Who buys a truck based on how the spare tire is lowered? Look up the word compromise.

Why are you quoting me? I'm not the one that thinks it needs to change.

 

[LC48]

So I should get a spare breaker bar, just for changing the spare. I think I saw somewhere the torque was 100ft/lbs if I remember correctly

Nope, if you haven't yet, go out this evening and pull that stamped steel lug wrench out of your factory kit and bust one or two lugs loose, then decide what works for you. My wrench deflected a good 30-degrees before it even whispered that it might break the lug loose. A good breaker bar would be fine. I went with the one I linked because I liked it even better than the 1/2 inch breaker. Never a bad idea to try the provided tools before you need them. The jack works, pain in the ass but it works and that breaker bar or aftermarket lug wrench makes using the jack easier as well.

 

[MetalsGeek]

Many good options exist. For what it's worth, I got an 18" breaker bar (#60818) and a 21 mm deep impact socket (#67789) at Harbor Freight, $19 w/out coupon. Plug em together and they store just fine wrapped up with the jack tool kit.

 

[Iron Ranger]

The first thing I did when I picked up my Mav was go home and grab a "wheel protector" lug nut socket and 24" breaker bar out of the tool box and tossed them in the under seat storage.
The second thing I did was to move my AMA (Canadian AAA) membership card to the center console.

Just because I CAN change a tire doesn't mean I particularly want to, especially at night or in a rain or snow storm, plus my membership gets me 3 free tow trips up to 100 miles. Great for buying a used car outside of town if you don't have someone to help drive it home haha

Best to keep the card with you, AAA covers the member not the vehicle and you may be in driving or riding in a different one.

 

[M-ervin]

I added a 245/64/17” with matching wheel for my spare tire. Fits, but tight. Front sits on front teeth bracket. I also, carry small lightweight floor jack and breaker bar for my long trips.
I did remove OEM exhaust and have an AFE side. Not sure this would fit with OEM exhaust.

 

[White Thunder]

I knew somebody would catch on.

 

[Carlitos_92]

I added a 245/64/17” with matching wheel for my spare tire. Fits, but tight. Front sits on front teeth bracket. I also, carry small lightweight floor jack and breaker bar for my long trips.
I did remove OEM exhaust and have an AFE side. Not sure this would fit with OEM exhaust.

Awesome! I've got a 225 slung up under there and it is also tight, especially if you don't coax the tire rearward as you hoist it up. I don't like my spare anywhere near pointy things though and will be cutting off those teeth soon.

 

[WannaMav]

Since the Maverick has a new-to-me approach to stowing the spare tire, I thought I would do a dry run on its use in my driveway on a nice, sunny afternoon. After all, why not play with my toys for an hour and also reduce future swearing, at night, in the rain, on the side of the interstate? I strongly recommend that you do the same, since you may discover some things sure to make your future life easier and safer. Here's my list of personal epiphanies:

1. IMPORTANT: The tailgate MUST be up for the jack handle extension tube to fit thru the hole above the bumper and lower the spare. If you have a jack extension drive tube in place and lower the tailgate, you may damage the tailgate. (Don't ask how I know this.) If you get a flat while carrying a full load that covers the tailgate, you're screwed. An attached trailer will also interfere with your ability to turn the handle and lower the spare. All these problems could have been solved by putting the access hole in the wheel well or on a corner instead of centered above the bumper. Great job, Ford!

2. Study how the jack is packed when you unwrap it so you can get it back the same way. The manual has sketches on p.357 & 360. The small plastic tip seems useful for removing XL hubcaps but n/a for alloy wheels.

3. The gender of the jack extension tubes may seem backwards to anyone used to square drive tools. e.g. The female end goes into the truck, and the male end engages a square hole in the handle.

4. You will probably have to lie down on the ground to be able to reach under the bumper well enough to disconnect the spare from the cable system. I suggest you keep a small (5x7) Harbor Freight tarp with the jack. Some heavy nitrile gloves wouldn't hurt either, to keep your steering wheel clean on the rest of your trip.

5. There's a heavy redundant cable (in addition to the winch) on the spare. I assume this is to prevent injury to the person tailgating you, should your winch cable fail.

6. There's a blue plastic cone that must be removed from the cable to get the spare off. This item is at VERY high risk of loss on the roadside, so try to put it back on the cable as soon as you disconnect the spare, and of course, winch the cable back up so it won't drag on the ground.

7. If you have aftermarket lug nut locks like McGard, consider putting the key where you're sure to find it even if you forgot where you put it several years from now. You DID already order a spare, right?

8. I don't carry wheel chocks, but I do carry ratchet straps that tie up tightly for storage and could be used for that in a pinch.

I'm sure other members will chime in and share the wisdom. Please do!

Edit: Thanks everyone so much for all the really good suggestions on lighting (flashlights, magnetic 12V LED work lights), better tooling (compressor, plug kit, socket & ratchet), and hygiene (disposable attire, large trash bags to cover failed tire, etc).

See here:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/maverick-flat-tire-changing-a-to-z.7977/

 

[White Thunder]

Actually, following all the post I meant one of these, I use to have one.

 

[Jah.]

Actually, following all the post I meant one of these, I use to have one.

Have one each for Mav and Camry . plus a metal pipe extension that fits over the wrench ends for more leverage if needed . Also always carry old area rugs in each vehicle to sit on while changing a tire or ECT .

 

[White Thunder]

Have one each for Mav and Camry . plus a metal pipe extension that fits over the wrench ends for more leverage if needed . Also always carry old area rugs in each vehicle to sit on while changing a tire or ECT .

thanks for the old rug idea.

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