Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

[Aaron F]

Has anyone tried using the stock sub output with a enclosed box in the under seat storage?



I'd assume it would be slightly better than just the 6.5" replacement?

This is an interesting idea, knowing that the included spare harness will plug into the green sub harness and give you a direct speaker connection without cutting wires.

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[Dnel29]

This is an interesting idea, knowing that the included spare harness will plug into the green sub harness and give you a direct speaker connection without cutting wires.

I'm waiting for athe 2025MY so this is something I cannot try for a while! And who knows if their will be any differences with the 2025MY speakers at this point.

Also knowing how much of a difference replacing the door speakers made for everyone...maybe a different sub would be the easiest solution.

 

[22Lariat]

I do se that you can buy ready made 6X9 to 6.5 adaptors on ebay.

Yes. And there are some options on Amazon. But it's so tight, you are better off making one exactly the depth you need if you can.

 

[wb5oxq]

I am going to replace the door speakers and the tweeters in the dash with a Rockford Fosgate component system and the center dash speaker with a full range 3.5 Dayton speaker and see how that sounds.

 

[TruckPrius]

I gave in an added a Kicker HS10 to my setup. Without the original B&O amp, I don't think replacing the 6x9 with the 6" sub provided enough bass for me.

At least I was able to work out a janky way to fit it behind the rear seat

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/taco-truck-prius-truckprius.40644/post-819710

 

[colinl]

I gave in an added a Kicker HS10 to my setup. Without the original B&O amp, I don't think replacing the 6x9 with the 6" sub provided enough bass for me.

At least I was able to work out a janky way to fit it behind the rear seat

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/taco-truck-prius-truckprius.40644/post-819710

lol dude, why not just pull the B&O 6x9 and use the speaker line from it to feed into your HS10?

 

[TruckPrius]

lol dude, why not just pull the B&O 6x9 and use the speaker line from it to feed into your HS10?

Meh, I already invested effort into swapping in the Dayton sub which does do something. Plus with the remote, if I drop the HS10 all the way down, it's still playing.

What's the benefit of removing it?

 

[colinl]

Meh, I already invested effort into swapping in the Dayton sub which does do something. Plus with the remote, if I drop the HS10 all the way down, it's still playing.

What's the benefit of removing it?

I understand that reasoning but the answer is pretty simple, it probably sounds better with only the HS10 and if you remove the factory 6x9 enclosure you have room to install the HS10 properly.

I'm guessing the first short answer won't satisfy you, so I'll elaborate. The HS10 is much louder and has much lower frequency response. Whatever output the Dayton contributes will make that frequency range uneven and boomy, compared to the HS10 by itself. Specifically I would expect issues in the 60-120hz range.

Last is the cost and time you put into the Dayton. If it's not helping that doesn't matter, remove it, the time and money spent is a sunk cost. https://thedecisionlab.com/biases/the-sunk-cost-fallacy

 

[Chris_G]

I understand that reasoning but the answer is pretty simple, it probably sounds better with only the HS10 and if you remove the factory 6x9 enclosure you have room to install the HS10 properly.

I'm guessing the first short answer won't satisfy you, so I'll elaborate. The HS10 is much louder and has much lower frequency response. Whatever output the Dayton contributes will make that frequency range uneven and boomy, compared to the HS10 by itself. Specifically I would expect issues in the 60-120hz range.

Last is the cost and time you put into the Dayton. If it's not helping that doesn't matter, remove it, the time and money spent is a sunk cost. https://thedecisionlab.com/biases/the-sunk-cost-fallacy

Thanks for the link!

 

[TruckPrius]

I understand that reasoning but the answer is pretty simple, it probably sounds better with only the HS10 and if you remove the factory 6x9 enclosure you have room to install the HS10 properly.

I'm guessing the first short answer won't satisfy you, so I'll elaborate. The HS10 is much louder and has much lower frequency response. Whatever output the Dayton contributes will make that frequency range uneven and boomy, compared to the HS10 by itself. Specifically I would expect issues in the 60-120hz range.

Last is the cost and time you put into the Dayton. If it's not helping that doesn't matter, remove it, the time and money spent is a sunk cost. https://thedecisionlab.com/biases/the-sunk-cost-fallacy

Good point on the doubling up in that range. If I had done this from the start I would have certainly just removed the 6x9. Will consider removing the dayton altogether. Thanks for your help.

 

[aurfalien]

First off fantastic thread, I mean w0w!

I didn't see mention of speaker wire harness for either the center or sub and cannot seem to source them, at least via Crutchfield, Metra or Hoel Wiring.

Would any one have a suggestion?

 

[Luthinator]

Checking to see how this is all going. are you still liking this option? I don't mind the speakers.. more like I do not want to take all the panels apart. I am looking at ordering and using the template to replace the sub.
Would you say the difference in the low end sound is worth it?

 

[TruckPrius]

Checking to see how this is all going. are you still liking this option? I don't mind the speakers.. more like I do not want to take all the panels apart. I am looking at ordering and using the template to replace the sub.
Would you say the difference in the low end sound is worth it?

My kicker HS-10 died and I'm waiting on an RMA replacement, so I had the opportunity to listen to just the setup with the Dayton replacement with the mid-2023+ B&O amp for a little while. I think the bass is reasonable for a 6" sub. On some hip hop or electronic tracks it's got a decent amount of low end.

Also interesting development, I found a 2022 B&O amp finally on ebay and I see there are possibly some others available. Looks like NZ6T-18T806-AF is the part number. I previously was searching for NZ6Z-18B849-A

 

[Aaron F]

My kicker HS-10 died and I'm waiting on an RMA replacement, so I had the opportunity to listen to just the setup with the Dayton replacement with the mid-2023+ B&O amp for a little while. I think the bass is reasonable for a 6" sub. On some hip hop or electronic tracks it's got a decent amount of low end.

Also interesting development, I found a 2022 B&O amp finally on ebay and I see there are possibly some others available. Looks like NZ6T-18T806-AF is the part number. I previously was searching for NZ6Z-18B849-A

Resurrecting this thread, as I have a 2025 Hybrid Lariat that is built and awaiting shipping. I went full blown DSP system on my 2023 EB, so I still have the amp sitting in my closet from that one. When My truck finally comes, I may try swapping the amps and seeing if there is any difference, especially if I end up trying this dayton sub out. I am not sure I want to spend $3000 again on an upgrade.

 

[TruckPrius]

I installed the 2022 B&O amp and so far not hearing a noticeable difference.. Maybe I would need to do some science and take audio measurements, but not a big priority tbh.. Just going to leave the older version in since I was chasing it for so long.

The dayton replacement I would probably do again. Gives a reasonable low end compared with just a touch of physical vibration to balance out the rest of my system when I turn my kicker all the way down.

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