Simple B&O upgrade and sub solution.

[22Lariat]

I wish I had the means to post what mine sounds like. I love the way it sounds. It's "full range" and balanced. If anything, it's on the bassy side. I went for a two hour ride last night just to listen to it to see if I could understand why others aren't having the same experience. I feel really bad about it. I can't explain the difference others are having. The only obvious difference is Ford changed the amp. Perhaps the output frequency was changed as well to correct the blown speaker issue Ford was having with early Mavericks. But it's honestly a guess since I have no way of testing it.

Changing all the speakers made an improvement, but it was a dramatic change specifically changing the door speakers and deadening the door skins. As for the sub, my experience is the sub is better, punchier, and deeper with the Dayton. Enough to shake my rearview. But please don't expect the results you'd get from a custom 10 inch high output system. It seems some may expect too much.

Sponsored

 

[TruckPrius]

I wish I had the means to post what mine sounds like. I love the way it sounds. It's "full range" and balanced. If anything, it's on the bassy side. I went for a two hour ride last night just to listen to it to see if I could understand why others aren't having the same experience. I feel really bad about it.

Don't feel bad about it. Even if it's not the amp and it's just some subjective difference, the process is easily reversible and refundable with just some time spent. I'm not changing it back because the full speaker swap for me is an improvement in quality compared to before. I'm just chasing what you're describing and I'd rather not have any secondary aftermarket amps in the mix with the hybrid that opens it up to having to think about capacitors and such.

Could you try a phone recording of something to compare to these (I recorded on a Pixel 3a):
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-o-upgrade-and-sub-solution.38884/post-731491

PS I might be able to get new old stock but they're asking $515 for it, not sure it's worth

 

[rallyshark]

Don't feel bad about it. Even if it's not the amp and it's just some subjective difference, the process is easily reversible and refundable with just some time spent. I'm not changing it back because the full speaker swap for me is an improvement in quality compared to before. I'm just chasing what you're describing and I'd rather not have any secondary aftermarket amps in the mix with the hybrid that opens it up to having to think about capacitors and such.

Could you try a phone recording of something to compare to these (I recorded on a Pixel 3a):
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-o-upgrade-and-sub-solution.38884/post-731491

PS I might be able to get new old stock but they're asking $515 for it, not sure it's worth

FYI, don't let the fact that you have a hybrid stop you from going aftermarket with your stereo, if that's what it takes to get the sound you want. The hybrid can handle it just fine, no capacitors needed. Buying another factory amp at $515 is absolutely not worth it. That kind of money would put you a long way towards an aftermarket solution that would blow away the B&O. Not to take away from the original intent of the thread, of course

 

[22Lariat]

Don't feel bad about it. Even if it's not the amp and it's just some subjective difference, the process is easily reversible and refundable with just some time spent. I'm not changing it back because the full speaker swap for me is an improvement in quality compared to before. I'm just chasing what you're describing and I'd rather not have any secondary aftermarket amps in the mix with the hybrid that opens it up to having to think about capacitors and such.

Could you try a phone recording of something to compare to these (I recorded on a Pixel 3a):
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-o-upgrade-and-sub-solution.38884/post-731491

PS I might be able to get new old stock but they're asking $515 for it, not sure it's worth

I would not do it at that price. If it were me I'd look for an under seat sub and try to squeeze it behind the back seat. I personally wouldn't worry about it being a hybrid. I'll see if I can get a recording later today.

 

[22Lariat]

FYI, don't let the fact that you have a hybrid stop you from going aftermarket with your stereo, if that's what it takes to get the sound you want. The hybrid can handle it just fine, no capacitors needed. Buying another factory amp at $515 is absolutely not worth it. That kind of money would put you a long way towards an aftermarket solution that would blow away the B&O. Not to take away from the original intent of the thread, of course

I agree 100%

 

[colinl]

FYI, don't let the fact that you have a hybrid stop you from going aftermarket with your stereo, if that's what it takes to get the sound you want. The hybrid can handle it just fine, no capacitors needed. Buying another factory amp at $515 is absolutely not worth it. That kind of money would put you a long way towards an aftermarket solution that would blow away the B&O. Not to take away from the original intent of the thread, of course

it's definitely not worth even half $515 to find out. assuming his front stage is working well, it would be far better to buy a HS10 for $299. or get a kicker key 500.1 for $279, build a box (my thread has dimensions for a box .45ft3), and get whatever sub your remaining budget allows.

 

[TruckPrius]

I'd probably lean towards the HS10 or HS8 if I did this, but is there a way to mount it behind the rear seat with the B&O system intact?

 

[wb5oxq]

So, I went through this elaborate breakdown of my B&O system upgrade, installation, research, and results only to have it disappear before I could post it. Wasted a couple hours. Not doing that again so here's a quick rundown of what I did.

I had a bad door woofer, so rather than have the dealer put in another crappy speaker under warranty, I decided to upgrade.

Rockford fosgate prime 6.75 components in front doors with corresponding tweeters in dash. Crutchfeild $75. Hoel wire harnesses for tweeters $14. This made a dramatic difference. Louder, added clarity, punch and a lot more bass. This is where I realized how bad the factory speakers are, and that the B&O amp was actually pretty good. So down the rabbit hole I went...

Next, was Rockford fosgate prime 4" two ways in rear pillars. $53 on Amazon. Hoel wiring harness $14. These added more clarity, and Imaging.

So here I've replaced six speakers, with only two left. The new speakers completely buried the already inept factory subwoofer so that was next.

After an embarrassing amount of research hours, learning enclosure design, subwoofer design, researching the space I had to work with, and understanding what B&O was trying to do with the factory sub, I made an adapter plate and the experiments began.

I didn't want to add an amp or under seat sub except as a last resort. Been there, done that. I wanted to keep it as original, inexpensive, and simple as possible.

After a couple tries I found the solution. The Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6 1/2" classic subwoofer. $69 on Amazon.The Maverick comes with a wiring harness for bed customization that also works with the subwoofer plug for the amp. It plugs in inside the enclosure.

I know this may not be what everyone is looking for, but it's perfect for me. It works the way the upgraded B&O should have worked from the factory. It's loud, clear, deep, easy, inexpensive and works way better than I thought I would ever get without an additional amp and sub. And It only bothers other drivers at a red light a little bit. Lol. I've had 8 inch powered subs in the past that didn't perform this well. Shakes my rearview... All that from the factory B&O amp, and I didn't splice a single wire, or break a single clip.

Also added sound deadening to the front door skins and chased down all the annoying Maverick rattles. The cleaner and louder the stereo got, the more small rattles I found and fixed. I painted the adapter plate with plastidip, added sound deadener to the underside of the adapter plate, and addaed rubber seals between the plate and subwoofer enclosure, and between adapter plate and subwoofer.

I have the subwoofer grill on order. And in the process of finalizing the remaining center channel. I approached the center channel a little different than others have, so if interested, stay tuned...

Thanks for reading.

UPDATE: It appears Ford changed the amp in later Mavericks. Mine is early 22 build. It is labelled B&O on the amp. Later models are not the same. Others are reporting less than satisfactory results with with the new amp. I read that Ford was experiencing blown speakers with the old amp. I had a blown speaker that led to my upgrades. I suspect when Ford and changed the amp, they changed the frequency output too.

Also, I will reiterate that sound quality is a preference thing. What sounds great to me may not sound great to you. However, upgrading the cheap paper speakers in the Maverick regardless of amp, really should only improve quality. But DO NOT expect miracles.

My 23 Lariat does not have an amp that looks like that. Just a small black plastic box.

 

[FischAutoTechGarten]

OP. Thanks for putting this together. I have a MY2024 Lariat, so B&O equipped. It does not sound good. I'm going to take a photo of my subwoofer and amp and share it on this thread to show the differences.

Here is what the subwoofer and Amp look like on my truck:

amplifier label

Another poster referred to a black plastic box... That is here... It's not the amplifier.

 

[TruckPrius]

Right, the black box is for the trailer connection, amp should be on the other side directly above the 6x9 woofer

 

[Montana]

So we can chalk the audio up as another feature you pay more for on current models and get less.

What a joke. Even if they fixed evry single potential recall from early models, I'd still be glad to have a '22.

Sorry guys. B&O makes some decent stuff - just not in our FORD's and even worse in current models. I wouldn't bother spending the money for a stock upgrade. If I was doing it, I'd get an 8" sub and normal amp or a Kicker style hideaway that is all in one. They are still essentially mid bass and not "boomy" that some of you want to avoid - and even if they were, you could tone it down. Quality bass doesn't have to be loud. Just clear.

I was going to do the 6.5" mod, got everything, sent it all back. Doesn't seem worth it.

 

[22Lariat]

So we can chalk the audio up as another feature you pay more for on current models and get less.

What a joke. Even if they fixed evry single potential recall from early models, I'd still be glad to have a '22.

Sorry guys. B&O makes some decent stuff - just not in our FORD's and even worse in current models. I wouldn't bother spending the money for a stock upgrade. If I was doing it, I'd get an 8" sub and normal amp or a Kicker style hideaway that is all in one. They are still essentially mid bass and not "boomy" that some of you want to avoid - and even if they were, you could tone it down. Quality bass doesn't have to be loud. Just clear.

I was going to do the 6.5" mod, got everything, sent it all back. Doesn't seem worth it.

I still stand by my post 100%. Mine sounds great. I cannot account for changes Ford made between my Maverick and yours.

I completely believe if anyone who made the exact mods as I did to there exactly equipped Maverick would be satisfied with the result. It is exactly as I described. Everytime I listen to mine I get a sinking feeling in my gut that others aren't having the same outcome.

I'm 52 years old. I've spent thousands upon thousands on home and car audio in my life. I know what good sound is.

Having said that, if you go the full aftermarket route you will have much more output. And it should sound very good.

 

[TruckPrius]

So we can chalk the audio up as another feature you pay more for on current models and get less.

What a joke. Even if they fixed evry single potential recall from early models, I'd still be glad to have a '22.

Sorry guys. B&O makes some decent stuff - just not in our FORD's and even worse in current models. I wouldn't bother spending the money for a stock upgrade. If I was doing it, I'd get an 8" sub and normal amp or a Kicker style hideaway that is all in one. They are still essentially mid bass and not "boomy" that some of you want to avoid - and even if they were, you could tone it down. Quality bass doesn't have to be loud. Just clear.

I was going to do the 6.5" mod, got everything, sent it all back. Doesn't seem worth it.

Mine sounds great with the new amp, I'm just chasing more potential juice and have to EQ it differently to get the sound I want. But I did also replace all 8 speakers.

Hoping I can find someone in my area with the older version of the amp and do a side by side comparison.

Hints that there's less power in the new amp:

• @22Lariat indicated his EQ is basically the inverse of mine because the bass was too strong
• he needed to add dampening to lessen vibrations which I face no problems with
• The calculation based on the sticker on the "new" amp: P = I x V => P = 16 x 13.8 = 220.8 < 660

 

[Dnel29]

Has anyone tried using the stock sub output with a enclosed box in the under seat storage?



I'd assume it would be slightly better than just the 6.5" replacement?

 

[wb5oxq]

So, I went through this elaborate breakdown of my B&O system upgrade, installation, research, and results only to have it disappear before I could post it. Wasted a couple hours. Not doing that again so here's a quick rundown of what I did.

I had a bad door woofer, so rather than have the dealer put in another crappy speaker under warranty, I decided to upgrade.

Rockford fosgate prime 6.75 components in front doors with corresponding tweeters in dash. Crutchfeild $75. Hoel wire harnesses for tweeters $14. This made a dramatic difference. Louder, added clarity, punch and a lot more bass. This is where I realized how bad the factory speakers are, and that the B&O amp was actually pretty good. So down the rabbit hole I went...

Next, was Rockford fosgate prime 4" two ways in rear pillars. $53 on Amazon. Hoel wiring harness $14. These added more clarity, and Imaging.

So here I've replaced six speakers, with only two left. The new speakers completely buried the already inept factory subwoofer so that was next.

After an embarrassing amount of research hours, learning enclosure design, subwoofer design, researching the space I had to work with, and understanding what B&O was trying to do with the factory sub, I made an adapter plate and the experiments began.

I didn't want to add an amp or under seat sub except as a last resort. Been there, done that. I wanted to keep it as original, inexpensive, and simple as possible.

After a couple tries I found the solution. The Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6 1/2" classic subwoofer. $69 on Amazon.The Maverick comes with a wiring harness for bed customization that also works with the subwoofer plug for the amp. It plugs in inside the enclosure.

I know this may not be what everyone is looking for, but it's perfect for me. It works the way the upgraded B&O should have worked from the factory. It's loud, clear, deep, easy, inexpensive and works way better than I thought I would ever get without an additional amp and sub. And It only bothers other drivers at a red light a little bit. Lol. I've had 8 inch powered subs in the past that didn't perform this well. Shakes my rearview... All that from the factory B&O amp, and I didn't splice a single wire, or break a single clip.

Also added sound deadening to the front door skins and chased down all the annoying Maverick rattles. The cleaner and louder the stereo got, the more small rattles I found and fixed. I painted the adapter plate with plastidip, added sound deadener to the underside of the adapter plate, and addaed rubber seals between the plate and subwoofer enclosure, and between adapter plate and subwoofer.

I have the subwoofer grill on order. And in the process of finalizing the remaining center channel. I approached the center channel a little different than others have, so if interested, stay tuned...

Thanks for reading.

UPDATE: It appears Ford changed the amp in later Mavericks. Mine is early 22 build. It is labelled B&O on the amp. Later models are not the same. Others are reporting less than satisfactory results with with the new amp. I read that Ford was experiencing blown speakers with the old amp. I had a blown speaker that led to my upgrades. I suspect when Ford and changed the amp, they changed the frequency output too.

Also, I will reiterate that sound quality is a preference thing. What sounds great to me may not sound great to you. However, upgrading the cheap paper speakers in the Maverick regardless of amp, really should only improve quality. But DO NOT expect miracles.

I do se that you can buy ready made 6X9 to 6.5 adaptors on ebay.

Sponsored