are you using high input I assume?
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Yeah plugged directly into the factory sub harness. Kept the factory sub in but its disconnected.
Now trying to decide if the Factory replacement PowerBass front doors is worth getting.
glad to hear its that simple. I cant wait for mine! I cannot say, but I did put powerbass speakers in my mustang, and I thought they was exceptional vs the stock premium ones.
the door deadening like shit. but they was great
I think these are what I got, and the first review on page is this
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbass-OE65C-FD-Component-Lincoln-Replacement/dp/B07DWF6NBY?th=1
Using the terrific information in this sub and other posts I have upgraded my fronts and tweeters to the Hertz Uno 165 set, the rears with Focal ACX100 Auditor EVOs, and the front mid with a Dayton Audio PS95 full range speaker. Even though the Dayton Audio speaker is 8ohms, it was still louder than the other front speakers. I have added a 4ohm resistor in series on the positive speaker wire and that has made the sound level very nice and even.
Would adding the 4ohm resistor to an 8ohm speaker cause damage to the B&O system over long term when the original B&O center speaker is rated at 8ohms?
Would adding the 4ohm resistor to an 8ohm speaker cause damage to the B&O system over long term when the original B&O center speaker is rated at 8ohms?
8 ohm is less taxing on an amp so I doubt it.
Having said that, I used the Dayton ND91 which is 8 ohms and it seems to fill in nicely. Of all the Dayton 3 1/2 speakers I looked at, it had the flattest frequency response and doesn't seem tinny. You have to use washers to catch the tabs but it mounts fine.
Another thing I did to help the front stage is I put the JL Audio tweeters I installed on an L-Pad. I have it turned down more than half. Let's the door speakers lead.
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayto...m-Cone-Full-Range-Driver-8-290-226?quantity=1
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I've been sitting on speaker replacements now for more than a year and finally getting around to it since I wanted to get rid of the dash speaker grill rattle at the same time.
I have the Rockford Fosgate R1675-S speaker set for the front doors and dash speakers but have a serious question.
The stock dash speakers in my 24 Lariat seem to be at least twice as heavy as the replacement Fosgate tweeters which I believe are 4 ohms versus the stock ones (8 ohms?).
Are the Fosgate a better tweeter even though the stock tweeters have a much larger magnet?? It looks like the Fosgate tweeters will be a slightly smaller diameter when the outside casing is removed so it should fit the stock opening.
Next question.. Is there a write up about replacing the center speaker? Seems like it may be a lot of work....not sure it may be worth it.
I have the Rockford Fosgate R1675-S speaker set for the front doors and dash speakers but have a serious question.
The stock dash speakers in my 24 Lariat seem to be at least twice as heavy as the replacement Fosgate tweeters which I believe are 4 ohms versus the stock ones (8 ohms?).
Are the Fosgate a better tweeter even though the stock tweeters have a much larger magnet?? It looks like the Fosgate tweeters will be a slightly smaller diameter when the outside casing is removed so it should fit the stock opening.
Next question.. Is there a write up about replacing the center speaker? Seems like it may be a lot of work....not sure it may be worth it.
Based on your knowledge of the B&O Enclosure do you feel this Scar 6.5 sub would fit in a similar fashion as you used in your application? The measurements are close to the Daytona Audio 6.5 however the Scar is just a bit larger.So, I went through this elaborate breakdown of my B&O system upgrade, installation, research, and results only to have it disappear before I could post it. Wasted a couple hours. Not doing that again so here's a quick rundown of what I did.
I had a bad door woofer, so rather than have the dealer put in another crappy speaker under warranty, I decided to upgrade.
Rockford fosgate prime 6.75 components in front doors with corresponding tweeters in dash. Crutchfeild $75. Hoel wire harnesses for tweeters $14. This made a dramatic difference. Louder, added clarity, punch and a lot more bass. This is where I realized how bad the factory speakers are, and that the B&O amp was actually pretty good. So down the rabbit hole I went...
Next, was Rockford fosgate prime 4" two ways in rear pillars. $53 on Amazon. Hoel wiring harness $14. These added more clarity, and Imaging.
So here I've replaced six speakers, with only two left. The new speakers completely buried the already inept factory subwoofer so that was next.
After an embarrassing amount of research hours, learning enclosure design, subwoofer design, researching the space I had to work with, and understanding what B&O was trying to do with the factory sub, I made an adapter plate and the experiments began.
I didn't want to add an amp or under seat sub except as a last resort. Been there, done that. I wanted to keep it as original, inexpensive, and simple as possible.
After a couple tries I found the solution. The Dayton Audio DCS165-4 6 1/2" classic subwoofer. $69 on Amazon.The Maverick comes with a wiring harness for bed customization that also works with the subwoofer plug for the amp. It plugs in inside the enclosure.
I know this may not be what everyone is looking for, but it's perfect for me. It works the way the upgraded B&O should have worked from the factory. It's loud, clear, deep, easy, inexpensive and works way better than I thought I would ever get without an additional amp and sub. And It only bothers other drivers at a red light a little bit. Lol. I've had 8 inch powered subs in the past that didn't perform this well. Shakes my rearview... All that from the factory B&O amp, and I didn't splice a single wire, or break a single clip.
Also added sound deadening to the front door skins and chased down all the annoying Maverick rattles. The cleaner and louder the stereo got, the more small rattles I found and fixed. I painted the adapter plate with plastidip, added sound deadener to the underside of the adapter plate, and addaed rubber seals between the plate and subwoofer enclosure, and between adapter plate and subwoofer.
I have the subwoofer grill on order. And in the process of finalizing the remaining center channel. I approached the center channel a little different than others have, so if interested, stay tuned...
Thanks for reading.
UPDATE: It appears Ford changed the amp in later Mavericks. Mine is early 22 build. It is labelled B&O on the amp. Later models are not the same. Others are reporting less than satisfactory results with with the new amp. I read that Ford was experiencing blown speakers with the old amp. I had a blown speaker that led to my upgrades. I suspect when Ford and changed the amp, they changed the frequency output too.
Also, I will reiterate that sound quality is a preference thing. What sounds great to me may not sound great to you. However, upgrading the cheap paper speakers in the Maverick regardless of amp, really should only improve quality. But DO NOT expect miracles.
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My factory B&O system including the speakers and all sound great.
My tone control/Equalizer still sits with all three sliders in the middle.
I’ve moved em but just don’t need more base or mid or treble.
My tone control/Equalizer still sits with all three sliders in the middle.
I’ve moved em but just don’t need more base or mid or treble.
I play music thru my phone connected thru a bluetooth adapter but even before I had that even if I connected with an aux or any connection the equalization was subpar. Fortunately I use Poweramp to play my mp3s and it has and incredible equalizer that actually get the music tones separated and thumping when I want that sound. If I did upgrade my speakers down the line I would need to also upgrade the whole infotainment or just the radio to include a better equalizer.
do not attempt to put anything in the factory B&O sub enclosure. it's infinite baffle, meaning the rear of the speaker vents under the truck to open air which kills SPL. and it's tiny so you can't seal it.Based on your knowledge of the B&O Enclosure do you feel this Scar 6.5 sub would fit in a similar fashion as you used in your application? The measurements are close to the Daytona Audio 6.5 however the Scar is just a bit larger.
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That is generally poor advice. There is absolutely nothing wrong with Ford's infinite baffle design in the Maverick where the rear of the speaker is completely sealed into a separate space from the cabin.
I have the factory B&O 6"x9" subwoofer being driven by an aftermarket amp and it is super responsive and generates tons of bass.
Thank you for the response. I was interested to know if the Scar 6.5 Woofer would fit in the factory enclosure’s physical space like the Dayton Audio Woofer mentioned by the OP.
As Bluelobo26 mentioned I feel the factory 6x9 woofer does sound pretty good. I would just like to expand on it a little bit without a large investment in time and money. The Scar looks like it may have a slightly larger footprint than the Dayton Audio speaker and I do know the available packaging in the OEM enclosure is limited.
As Bluelobo26 mentioned I feel the factory 6x9 woofer does sound pretty good. I would just like to expand on it a little bit without a large investment in time and money. The Scar looks like it may have a slightly larger footprint than the Dayton Audio speaker and I do know the available packaging in the OEM enclosure is limited.
Even if it will fit, it would be a terrible candidate on efficiency alone. The factory amp is pretty weak, and that 82.8db efficiency isn't going to help. It is far less efficient than the Dayton(87.4db) the OP used. It would likely be weaker than factory. If you are determined to mount a sub there, make sure the specs are good for an infinite baffle setup(total Q higher than .5) and that it is efficient. You don't need power handling, you need efficiency. There aren't a lot of small subs that really fit those criteria.
Thanks for the reply and the recommendation. I appreciate the detailed explanation and do understand why the OP’s choice is a better option.
OPs choice is not a better option. I went out and found the highest efficiency (103db) aftermarket 6x9" I could and it wasn't a meaningful improvement over the stock sub. What Ford put in there is actually extremely well suited to its purpose. You are better off adding a second compact sub to handle the lowest frequencies and leave the B&O sub active to blend into the stock speakers.
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