B&O guys will need a bypass unit from NavTV or PAC to get around the processing. I have both in stock.
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That's the opposite of the intent of this thread and it's not needed. Simple speaker swap had pretty good results. I'm hopefully getting one of the original style B&O maverick amps to see if there's actually any objective differences.B&O guys will need a bypass unit from NavTV or PAC to get around the processing. I have both in stock.
That sucks... I see you have the newer amp too.So I just swapped the sub (other speakers on their way) with the Dayton in the original post and I'm also underwhelmed. My Maverick is also a late '23 Lariat so I wonder if there really is something different with the amp? Maybe I didn't get it fully sealed? It's too cold and dark to mess with it any more. Moving the fader to the rear definitely didn't increase any bass. With or without the seat up.
When my Skar audio speakers get here, I'll try one of those 6.5" in there to see if it works any better before I put them into the doors. If so, they're like 1/2 the price of the Dayton...
Also, we designed a 3d printable adapter plate which you can find here: https://www.printables.com/model/704624-ford-maverick-bo-sub-adapter-plate-65-in-6x9
It's 19mm to approximate the 3/4" MDF OP used.
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I come from working on a ton of F150s which are very similar to this platform. We've tried everything with regards to working around the B&O system to get better audio quality with failed results. The best method still is to use a bypass unit. Just trying to save people time and aggravation.That's the opposite of the intent of this thread and it's not needed. Simple speaker swap had pretty good results. I'm hopefully getting one of the original style B&O maverick amps to see if there's actually any objective differences.
So you're giving these away for free? If you're "Just trying to save people time and aggravation." I'll give you my address to send me my free unit.I come from working on a ton of F150s which are very similar to this platform. We've tried everything with regards to working around the B&O system to get better audio quality with failed results. The best method still is to use a bypass unit. Just trying to save people time and aggravation.
No dice, my orders all get canceled on this. Anyone with the original want to sell or swap?I'm hopefully getting one of the original style B&O maverick amps to see if there's actually any objective differences.
huh. so, how much were you (trying) to pay for those amps?No dice, my orders all get canceled on this. Anyone with the original want to sell or swap?
Thought you upgraded everything? My amp has the dsp, I just don't think it has the power. If we swapped I'd be saving you gas in the long runhuh. so, how much were you (trying) to pay for those amps?
I don't think I'm interested in selling mine because it would cost me a lot to get the a2b interface, an amp with dsp, and then if I have a more powerful amp I'd HAVE to upgrade the front components...![]()
nah, I'm still using my B&O amp for the front. replaced the front components, center channel, installed an amp and sub.Thought you upgraded everything? My amp has the dsp, I just don't think it has the power. If we swapped I'd be saving you gas in the long run
dual 4 ohm coil. I have one and I did think about trying to swap the amps out of curiosity.I found this diagram on the bronco B&O system which makes it seem close, but the sub wiring shows 2 +/- going to it? Wasn't sure if they had two subs or somehow a dual voice coil
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...iagram-for-b-o-sound-system.28611/post-976428