Potentially Dangerous High Engine Rev

[cyberdog]

Never had mine just go full throttle on it's own like that. Starting cold does have immediately start the ICE as it should, and idle at sounds like around 1500-2000 rpms, but never races off into the great beyond. In Theory, the rev limited *should* kick in to prevent it from over-revving if in neutral. Actually neutral usually prevents revving past 3500-4000 rpms with most vehicles, drive could just try and propel the car, and the brakes are supposed to override the throttle input. - Someday I'm going to hook up the OBDII BT to see what RPM it runs at using Torque, but the urge to know hasn't pushed me into doing so.

It almost sounds like perhaps those with an issue might perhaps have a throttle pedal position sensor issue. Usually when there's a problem the TPPS will read zero or ground, but if there's an area with a short, it could potentially be read as though the pedal is floored. - I simple voltage read of the signal (ignition in run position) and slowly press the pedal as you watch the reading could confirm if the TPPS has a small area shorted. My GMC Envoy would simply loose all power until you cycled the ignition when it's TPPS on the pedal began to fail years ago.

The other thought, and I'm just asking as it happened to a coworker with their Impala, could your floor mat not be snapped into place, and the mat was pressing against the throttle pedal? - He actually went to the dealer twice, who on the second return took the time to check the mat, and it turned out his feet were pushing the mat forward against the throttle. (Sometimes it is just the simple things.)

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[HeyBales]

Between my mountain biking and my kids both playing hockey, the bed is basically non-negotiable for me. I used to have an escape and on days where my kids both had games/practice, it was basically impossible to fit them and their gear in the car. I'll probably just end up with an EB maverick or something.
I'll be checking out cx-5, rav-4, forester hybrid no. It's done it in drive and park so far, but only on cold start. I'll be going to dealership today to try replicating it, while likely trading it in for something else.

I've seen the posts where tranny fluid was checked on 1st early oil change, while they were down there.
Some reported level being low, and it took more than a small bit to fill up.
Others found leaks.
Saw enough posts on it, I checked my own. I was fine.

But - with motors near the top of tranny, and that Generator Motor needing to spin a tad more than the ICE RPM to cancel it out during warmup time - wondering if you could be dealing with the result of something like level being too low, for the sound aspect anyway.
And then the cold tranny shakes that is normally just felt in P or N, is making it's way to D for a pull when it shouldn't.

 

[HeyBales]

Purchased new. Dealership couldn't replicate it but hypothesized that it was due to a very low battery and some kind of unexplained draw on it related to the air conditioning system, which I've seen corroborated by others that had a low battery in this thread. I picked it up today, and will just have to turn on my camera every time I start it for the next while in case it happens again.

Now just making stuff up it sounds like - hoping things stick.

There is no pull from the 12V battery once the truck starts. Only a charge to it - and that ain't much or for long!
The ACCM was for after turn-off 12V battery drain.

Could the 12V system while running not be getting a good 12V (actually around 14-15V), causing confusion to sensors and modules?
Sure. But that's the DCDC Converter providing that.

Hope you have as cold a days this week as when it occurred to help give a clue.

 

[jeduncan14083]

We'll find out. I need to give it some time to see if whatever they did fixed it. I'm in and out a lot for work, so I'll have several opportunities per day to test it out over the next week or so.

 

[jeduncan14083]

Never had mine just go full throttle on it's own like that. Starting cold does have immediately start the ICE as it should, and idle at sounds like around 1500-2000 rpms, but never races off into the great beyond. In Theory, the rev limited *should* kick in to prevent it from over-revving if in neutral. Actually neutral usually prevents revving past 3500-4000 rpms with most vehicles, drive could just try and propel the car, and the brakes are supposed to override the throttle input. - Someday I'm going to hook up the OBDII BT to see what RPM it runs at using Torque, but the urge to know hasn't pushed me into doing so.

It almost sounds like perhaps those with an issue might perhaps have a throttle pedal position sensor issue. Usually when there's a problem the TPPS will read zero or ground, but if there's an area with a short, it could potentially be read as though the pedal is floored. - I simple voltage read of the signal (ignition in run position) and slowly press the pedal as you watch the reading could confirm if the TPPS has a small area shorted. My GMC Envoy would simply loose all power until you cycled the ignition when it's TPPS on the pedal began to fail years ago.

The other thought, and I'm just asking as it happened to a coworker with their Impala, could your floor mat not be snapped into place, and the mat was pressing against the throttle pedal? - He actually went to the dealer twice, who on the second return took the time to check the mat, and it turned out his feet were pushing the mat forward against the throttle. (Sometimes it is just the simple things.)

Definitely not a floor mat issue. The hard liners I have in there are nowhere close enough to get the pedal stuck under it, thankfully.

 

[jeduncan14083]

Did you buy it Used (and possibly abused)?
You only said you “drive a 2023 Hybrid”
Most of us say up front “bought new” or “picked up used” to help describe the sit.

I’ve only seen the higher idle in cold temps.
If you feel it’s dangerous you need to take appropriate action at Ford service.

Purchased new in 2023. The RPMs were definitely way higher than a high idle, but the dealership alleges that they think it was caused by a low battery. I don't know whether I fully buy that, but I'm also not an auto electric expert by any stretch, so I'll give it a whirl and see what happens.

 

[710-oil-614]

Purchased new in 2023. The RPMs were definitely way higher than a high idle, but the dealership alleges that they think it was caused by a low battery. I don't know whether I fully buy that, but I'm also not an auto electric expert by any stretch, so I'll give it a whirl and see what happens.

If you are serious about looking at other vehicles - not sure what your financial situation is and while you would lose the fuel economy a nice upgrade would be a Honda Ridgeline.

 

[OleFordGuy]

If you are serious about looking at other vehicles - not sure what your financial situation is and while you would lose the fuel economy a nice upgrade would be a Honda Ridgeline.

Agree with that 100%

 

[710-oil-614]

Agree with that 100%

And if OP can wait till the 2026 comes out (although it would be a first year model) they are supposed to be bringing a hybrid variant.

 

[jeduncan14083]

If you are serious about looking at other vehicles - not sure what your financial situation is and while you would lose the fuel economy a nice upgrade would be a Honda Ridgeline.

While I could afford (and would functionally love) something midsized like a Tacoma/Ridgeline/Ranger, the fact that my job has me driving close to 20k miles per year, mostly city miles, makes the Mav hybrid or something with similar fuel economy the top priority for me.

 

[Darryl]

It's a

The 2026’s show a price reduction across the line, all trim levels and new package option combo’s.

It's actually a bit of "shrink-flation" because some previously standard equipment is now optional or no longer available. The XLT no longer comes with the center arm rest in the rear seat. The rear sliding glass is an extra cost option in the lariat. But at least it's now available in the other trims as a. Option. But the greatest contributor to the price drop is the fact that the EcoBoost now comes with the Fwd as standard once again. Last year's price included 4wd in every EcoBoost. So although the price dropped, the content dropped too

 

[710-oil-614]

While I could afford (and would functionally love) something midsized like a Tacoma/Ridgeline/Ranger, the fact that my job has me driving close to 20k miles per year, mostly city miles, makes the Mav hybrid or something with similar fuel economy the top priority for me.

Wouldn’t your job compensate you for the miles driven? Even at 20k annually the difference is going to be a few hundred dollars driving something other than a hybrid.

 

[MakinDoForNow]

Could it be that the high rpm happens when the heat is set to MAX and conditions are go for activation of the electric cabin auxillary heater also to heat ice quicker/more?

 

[jeduncan14083]

Wouldn’t your job compensate you for the miles driven? Even at 20k annually the difference is going to be a few hundred dollars driving something other than a hybrid.

They do reimburse for mileage, but the combined cost of a higher payment and significantly more fuel consumption would eat into my net income, which is why i opted for hybrid in the first place. The hybrid turns driving for work into a net profit center for me.

 

[Chops]

They do reimburse for mileage, but the combined cost of a higher payment and significantly more fuel consumption would eat into my net income, which is why i opted for hybrid in the first place. The hybrid turns driving for work into a net profit center for me.

Exactly. An EB could cost you an extra $2k+/yr in fuel costs at 20,000mi/yr compared to the Hybrid. I only drive ~ 3K/yr so an EB makes sense for me. If I had your mileage I’d be driving the Hybrid

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