New Battery Every 2 Years?

[KJHChemist]

Hello Fellow Ford Drivers,

I have a 2022 Maverick XLT AWD Gasoline engine. I replaced the battery in 2024 and just got another new one in 2026. I've read on the forums about the issue with the system chronically under-charging the battery. My brand new battery has a resting voltage of about 12.15 V. I've tried the Forscan fix of adjusting the charge from 80% to 95% and it hasn't made a difference. Anyone else found something that actually works, short of putting a battery maintainer on it every so often to get it up to full charge?

If using the maintainer is the only option available to us while Ford continues to ignore the issue, how often is it recommended to top it off?

Interestingly enough, when I replaced the battery this last time I asked if there was anything I could do or if I should just expect to replace it again in two years and he shook his head and told me I should expect to do this again in 2028.

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[tiktokbrainrot]

Are you buying AGM or flooded cell batteries?

The charging behavior of mavericks is what it is. Ford has no interestin changing it.

There are 2 semi permanent fixes. The first is to get the 4 pin trailer clip to keep the truck thinking trailer lights are attached, which makes the system pump out full voltage the whole time, or to use a lithium iron phosphate battery that can happily sit at 80% charge for years without issue, which is what boat guys do now.

 

[KJHChemist]

Are you buying AGM or flooded cell batteries?

The charging behavior of mavericks is what it is. Ford has no interestin changing it.

There are 2 semi permanent fixes. The first is to get the 4 pin trailer clip to keep the truck thinking trailer lights are attached, which makes the system pump out full voltage the whole time, or to use a lithium iron phosphate battery that can happily sit at 80% charge for years without issue, which is what boat guys do now.

I'll keep the Lithium battery in mind for when this one craps out in 2028. In the meantime, please walk me through the trailer clip fix, or direct me to where I can read more about it? Thanks.

 

[Tbone289]

If using the maintainer is the only option available to us while Ford continues to ignore the issue, how often is it recommended to top it off?

If you use a smart charger/maintainer like Noco or Pulsetech brands, the more the merrier. I use my Pulsetech 2-4 times a month and more in the winter, and I regularly get 8+ years out of a battery. I have a 2012 Focus that has basically the same charge strategy as the Maverick on its second battery, replaced in 2020. If you're going through a battery every 2 years, an investment like this is a no-brainer, IMO.

Here's my setup, with a 2-channel charger mounted on the workbench in front of the 2 vehicles in the garage. I just pop the hood and plug them in on the weekends or overnight during the week whenever I think about it.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

I'll keep the Lithium battery in mind for when this one craps out in 2028. In the meantime, please walk me through the trailer clip fix, or direct me to where I can read more about it? Thanks.

If you decide to go with the trailer plug.
Be advised that it will eliminate your
Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) with Cross-Traffic ...
BLIS can alert you when a vehicle enters the blind spot zone. When changing lanes.
Cross-Traffic Alert warns of traffic approaching from the sides when the vehicle is in Reverse.

If your Maverick has BLIS. I don't know if it's something you'd be willing to give up.

 

[HeyBales]

Do you have the means to have Forscan looking at some PIDs while you drive, and someone looking at them?
Actually - sitting in the driveway would be good enough.

For the hybrid all years (so no software change), it was discovered that for an AGM battery, the BMS stops charging at 92% Ford SOC, and allows the battery to then supply the 12V system and drain to mid-80's SOC before it applies charge again.
And above 80% SOC it's normally a float charge - so 1A or below. So it drains a whole lot faster than charges.

But it was also found that the following settings caused the BMS to go ahead and output charging level amps at 92% to 100% SOC. But the battery had to be high enough charge already to be at that higher end of mid-80%'s to get that effect.

1 - turn fan speed to 6 or above.
2 - turn headlights on, (ETA: correction - DRL is not the same).
3 - plug in a hitch light so trailer system thinks something is there (this may also disable some sensors depending on year/trim).

So it would be interesting to know if the EB does the same thing.

Since new battery at 12.5 resting - maybe high enough already.
But perhaps a charge up to be complete.

Did you follow the manual instructions for new battery - BMS reset and relearn?

Watch the 3 PID's here regarding the 12V battery.
If really starting at 100%, should see an Amp negative drain while running with Volts 12.8, down to 92% SOC.
Anywhere during that time - do one of the 3 things, see what happens to your Volts and Amps.

 

[bgn]

I went through two Motorcraft batteries in less than two years under warranty, both the flooded type. I picked up a Weize AGM for super cheap and it's had no issues.

 

[Carlitos_92]

I'll keep the Lithium battery in mind...

Don't put one of those in a truck as the starter battery; it is asking for trouble.

You didn't answer the other question about what kind of batteries you are using. I would highly recommend AGM. The OEM Ford AGM battery in my Ecoboost is now over 3 years old and totally fine. It charges to whatever limit Ford set it to originally. The only time I have ever put a charger on it was when I was doing a stereo install with a lot of idling/testing going on.

As far as Ford "ignoring" this issue, of course they will - because it is just not that widespread on Ecoboosts. But I have lived my whole life in Texas, and there is not a city in the state that doesn't reach 100F+ in the summer. That is not good for batteries. I think my average replacement schedule is around 3 years - across multiple Hondas, a VW, and an old F-150 (knock on wood re: the Maverick battery...).

It is possible that your truck has its own issue, or you just have bad luck with batteries. Good luck either way.

 

[KJHChemist]

If you decide to go with the trailer plug.
Be advised that it will eliminate your
Blind Spot Information System (BLIS) with Cross-Traffic ...
BLIS can alert you when a vehicle enters the blind spot zone. When changing lanes.
Cross-Traffic Alert warns of traffic approaching from the sides when the vehicle is in Reverse.

If your Maverick has BLIS. I don't know if it's something you'd be willing to give up.

Oh, that is definitely a trade-off to keep in mind. I don't suppose there is a way to keep it enabled through a Forscan adjustment, is there?

 

[KJHChemist]

Don't put one of those in a truck as the starter battery; it is asking for trouble.

You didn't answer the other question about what kind of batteries you are using. I would highly recommend AGM. The OEM Ford AGM battery in my Ecoboost is now over 3 years old and totally fine. It charges to whatever limit Ford set it to originally. The only time I have ever put a charger on it was when I was doing a stereo install with a lot of idling/testing going on.

As far as Ford "ignoring" this issue, of course they will - because it is just not that widespread on Ecoboosts. But I have lived my whole life in Texas, and there is not a city in the state that doesn't reach 100F+ in the summer. That is not good for batteries. I think my average replacement schedule is around 3 years - across multiple Hondas, a VW, and an old F-150 (knock on wood re: the Maverick battery...).

It is possible that your truck has its own issue, or you just have bad luck with batteries. Good luck either way.

I'm on my second AGM battery. I can't recall what the original battery way.

 

[KJHChemist]

If you use a smart charger/maintainer like Noco or Pulsetech brands, the more the merrier. I use my Pulsetech 2-4 times a month and more in the winter, and I regularly get 8+ years out of a battery. I have a 2012 Focus that has basically the same charge strategy as the Maverick on its second battery, replaced in 2020. If you're going through a battery every 2 years, an investment like this is a no-brainer, IMO.

Here's my setup, with a 2-channel charger mounted on the workbench in front of the 2 vehicles in the garage. I just pop the hood and plug them in on the weekends or overnight during the week whenever I think about it.

I have a NOCO Genius 5 now.

 

[billbillw]

My factory AGM battery (vehicle delivered May 2023) is still going strong.

 

[Propane Burning Man]

Sulfation is what kills batteries. This prevents sulfation: Amazon.com: Pulsetech PowerPulse Battery Maintenance System : Automotive

My 2 original AGM batteries in my Transit are 11.5 years old. Still test like brand new. My original FLA battery in my mustang lasted 13 years. My maverick battery is almost 2 years old and tests fine. Prevent sulfation or replace the battery.

 

[Tbone289]

I have a NOCO Genius 5 now.

OK then, you can't "over-maintain" an AGM or flooded lead-acid battery with a Genius 5 or any other "smart" charger. There is no risk to leaving it connected 100% of the time. So, my recommendation is to connect it as frequently as is convenient for you. However, I don't believe the "repair" function on a Genius 5 is supposed to be used at all on AGM batteries, only flooded lead-acid.

 

[Tbone289]

Sulfation is what kills batteries. This prevents sulfation: Amazon.com: Pulsetech PowerPulse Battery Maintenance System : Automotive

My 2 original AGM batteries in my Transit are 11.5 years old. Still test like brand new. My original FLA battery in my mustang lasted 13 years. My maverick battery is almost 2 years old and tests fine. Prevent sulfation or replace the battery.

That is a great option, as are the Pulsetech chargers that combine the pulse of that product with a smart charger.

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