Have you changed your oil yet? Oil life monitor question.

[Clark6]

Yes in my humble opinion I'm sure Ford has to have a form of break in oil or additive with the new engine that needs to stay in awhile, how long? who knows. I'll take the chance & leave it the first time it tells me to change it.. I would get nervous approaching 8K though. As far as contaminates , Well that's what a good oil filter is for.. I'm thinking Mobil one filters or K & N. once I start doing it myself. That full synthetic oil is pretty tough. I keep checking the color on the stick it still looks golden brown,, however I know the bottom is darker or possibly black. 6800 miles so far 54% estimated 3K to go so it looks like a 10K oil change.. I may change it before that.


3 vehicles beside the maverick
96 silverado 389,000 miles still going Mobile 1 the first 100K then switched to Pennzoil Platinum & sometimes Pennzoil blend. Wix filters or Napa gold (last 5 years I just been changing the oil twice a year once in the summer once in the winter.

02 PT cruiser 259,000 miles Pennzoil syn blend. Wix filter once in the summer once in the winter oil change.

87 Turbo Buick 10K rebuilt Mobile/ Pennzoil just whatever I feel at the time of change lol.. change it regular because of the Turbo heat & alky injection oil gets pretty black fast... Wix filters

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[MaverickTopGun]

......... I'm sure Ford has to have a form of break in oil or additive with the new engine that needs to stay in awhile, how long? who knows. .......

From UOA evidence I've seen lately, Ford appears to be using moly assembly lube during their engine builds, and that moly has a beneficial effect (fills asperities during break-in).

I've also noticed it's not much moly, only about 145 ppm. They are not going to high amounts at all.

Lots of motor oil brands have more than 145 ppm in it already. The typical motor oil dose of around 80 PPM is mainly used to pass the Sequence VID low-friction requirements found in many brands of oil, and more than 80 ppm found in other oils begins to help anti-oxidation and anti-LSPI properties too.

0w-20 oils with more than 145 ppm of moly, great for a break-in oil change:

1. Valvoline full synthetics. Both their 'Extended Protection' & 'Advanced Full Synthetic' kinds have around 300 ppm moly. Easy to find at walmart, good bargain, quality reputation.

2. Mazda and Toyota house-brand oils have way over 300 ppm.

3. Amsoil Signature Series full-syns have around 225 ppm.

Or, in lieu of a high-moly motor oil, doesn't hurt to put in a half-bottle of Liqui Moly MoS2 2009, napa autoparts or amazon.

 

[Tbolt]

Well got mine changed this weekend. The engine is a little bit quieter so glad I did it before my long trip i'm about to make. Only thing is, since I have the FX4 when I got home I figured i'd check to make sure all my screws were put back into my skid plate. Well this square plastic piece they didn't bother to put back right and it was barely hanging on. Think I'll double check before leaving the parking lot next time.

 

[Luckyaf]

Well got mine changed this weekend. The engine is a little bit quieter so glad I did it before my long trip i'm about to make. Only thing is, since I have the FX4 when I got home I figured i'd check to make sure all my screws were put back into my skid plate. Well this square plastic piece they didn't bother to put back right and it was barely hanging on. Think I'll double check before leaving the parking lot next time.

If it’s the square black piece where the drain plug is, it sorta just snaps back together you can feel it when it’s back together right. I remove that and the little front skid plate under the oil filter and leave the big skid plate on when I change my oil. It makes it super easy not having to fool with the larger skid plate

 

[Tbolt]

If it’s the square black piece where the drain plug is, it sorta just snaps back together you can feel it when it’s back together right. I remove that and the little front skid plate under the oil filter and leave the big skid plate on when I change my oil. It makes it super easy not having to fool with the larger skid plate

That was exactly the piece. Took me a minute to figure out how it snapped back correctly. I am just surprised I didn't lose it going down the road back to my house. I only looked under once I was back in my garage and saw it hanging off one side.

 

[Mavonorder]

Thanks for the proof. This is why I always change my oil on a new engine at about 1000 miles. Metal from break in. So clearly not a relic of the past. For those that extend oil changes in the 10K range Yikes I don't want a used car from you.

Update...i don't think I'd be too worried about metal particles damaging your engine if you didn't change the oil for breakin reasons at 1000 miles. For the heck of it, I googled the pore size of the typical oil filter and they have a pore space of 25 microns. Expensive filters have pore sizes of 3 and 10 microns. I can tell you from personal experience, filtering oil using a 25 micron filter will let virtually no metal particles through. I've used 45 micron paper filters to filter groundwater samples for metals analysis that literally looked more like solid mud than water, and the groundwater after filtering using a 45 micron filter is crystal clear with not even a visible grain of sand.

For the record, metals in groundwater that pass through a 45 micron filter are considered to be in the dissolved state and not particulates per United States Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) Solid Waste 846 Laboratory Methods Series 200/6000/7000.

I feel pretty silly now that I was frightened into changing my oil so soon at 1,750 miles after reading similar posts regarding breakin oil changes.

The Mav with the turbo changes things regarding oil change frequency for me and I'll more than likely change it every 5k using full synthetic 5w30.

Update... Just checked my oil life reading on the dash and after 1800 miles, it said 85% engine oil life left. At the current pace, that's 12,000 mile oil life expectancy.

I baby my cars with my driving habits and do regular maintenance on all fluids, belts, filters, etc. My 2017 Camry with 2.5L non-turbo (0w20 full synthetic) had the oil changed as recommend by Toyota every 10k. For the first approximately 80k (8 oil changes), the oil was close to honey brown after 10k miles. It seems to be darker now after an oil change but not watery and pitch black like the old days. And it literally burns about 1/8 to 1/4 quart of oil after 10k with 125k miles on her. Right now, after 4k since the last change , the oil is just a tad darker than honey on a white paper towel and barely lower on the stick than topped off.

So for those claiming oil needs to be changed at 5k or even 3k on a newer car, my Camry with my driving habits/ conditions does not appear to support your conclusions.

 

[PriusHater]

Update... Just checked my oil life reading on the dash and after 1800 miles, it said 85% engine oil life left. At the current pace, that's 12,000 mile oil life expectancy.

I’ve topped 8100 miles and my dash still says I have 41% oil life left. Crazy!! I’ll still be doing an oil change at the dealer real soon.

 

[TheSEARCH]

Update...i don't think I'd be too worried about metal particles damaging your engine if you didn't change the oil for breakin reasons at 1000 miles. For the heck of it, I googled the pore size of the typical oil filter and they have a pore space of 25 microns. Expensive filters have pore sizes of 3 and 10 microns. I can tell you from personal experience, filtering oil using a 25 micron filter will let virtually no metal particles through. I've used 45 micron paper filters to filter groundwater samples for metals analysis that literally looked more like solid mud than water, and the groundwater after filtering using a 45 micron filter is crystal clear with not even a visible grain of sand.

For the record, metals in groundwater that pass through a 45 micron filter are considered to be in the dissolved state and not particulates per United States Environmental Protection Agency (USEPA) Solid Waste 846 Laboratory Methods Series 200/6000/7000.

I feel pretty silly now that I was frightened into changing my oil so soon at 1,750 miles after reading similar posts regarding breakin oil changes.

The Mav with the turbo changes things regarding oil change frequency for me and I'll more than likely change it every 5k using full synthetic 5w30.

Update... Just checked my oil life reading on the dash and after 1800 miles, it said 85% engine oil life left. At the current pace, that's 12,000 mile oil life expectancy.

I baby my cars with my driving habits and do regular maintenance on all fluids, belts, filters, etc. My 2017 Camry with 2.5L non-turbo (0w20 full synthetic) had the oil changed as recommend by Toyota every 10k. For the first approximately 80k (8 oil changes), the oil was close to honey brown after 10k miles. It seems to be darker now after an oil change but not watery and pitch black like the old days. And it literally burns about 1/8 to 1/4 quart of oil after 10k with 125k miles on her. Right now, after 4k since the last change , the oil is just a tad darker than honey on a white paper towel and barely lower on the stick than topped off.

So for those claiming oil needs to be changed at 5k or even 3k on a newer car, my Camry with my driving habits/ conditions does not appear to support your conclusions.

What you said about the filter taking these metal particles out of the oil is rather strange if you think about it. The other poster showed tests done on oil. If the filter was able to do this WHY did the test show metal particles in the oil? Would they not have been filtered out. Doesn't make logical sense to me. But hey do what you want. I will do what i do . Not a big deal as most don't do an early oil change and there engines seem to last fine.

 

[MLowe05]

I’ve topped 8100 miles and my dash still says I have 41% oil life left. Crazy!! I’ll still be doing an oil change at the dealer real soon.

If I understand it correctly, at 10,000 miles it is going to say it is due regardless of how it looks right now.

Still waiting on someone to post UOA on a Maverick. I ran the factory specified 13,000 mile intervals on a supercharged I4 Mercedes for 150,000 miles and had UOA done every single change and without fail each time was told the oil was good for at least 15,000. This was off the shelf Mobil 1 0W-40 10+ years ago.

I'll be happy to change my opinion when someone posts the UOA where the lab says it was a good idea to change the oil at 1,000 miles. Otherwise, as I stated earlier in this thread.. BS.

 

[Mavonorder]

What you said about the filter taking these metal particles out of the oil is rather strange if you think about it. The other poster showed tests done on oil. If the filter was able to do this WHY did the test show metal particles in the oil? Would they not have been filtered out. Doesn't make logical sense to me. But hey do what you want. I will do what i do . Not a big deal as most don't do an early oil change and there engines seem to last fine.

They are detecting metal " particles" that are 3, 8, 10 microns. The oil filter takes out 25 micron particles. A human hair is 90 microns in diameter. So the cheap oil filters remove particles that are about 1/4 the diameter of a human hair. That's a pretty small particle.

 

[TheSEARCH]

They are detecting metal " particles" that are 3, 8, 10 microns. The oil filter takes out 25 micron particles. A human hair is 90 microns in diameter. So the cheap oil filters remove particles that are about 1/4 the diameter of a human hair. That's a pretty small particle.

Yes very small so maybe so small as to have no real effect on the engines life span. Either way I will still do an early oil change as I do it myself. If it has no effect no biggy.

 

[GPSMan]

Yes very small so maybe so small as to have no real effect on the engines life span. Either way I will still do an early oil change as I do it myself. If it has no effect no biggy.

Ha. You and I must be the same age and from the same area. I haven't heard "no biggie / no biggy?" in years and I used to say that.

 

[Mymaverick2021]

For those that have changed their oil already, did the oil life monitor reset on its own? Or did you have to reset it manually? Just trying to determine how “intelligent” it is.

You need to reset it manually

 

[al4tay]

Fair enough. I've got about 1600 miles on mine and not sure if I should change it soon given it's the first one.

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